Nothing is really standing out for me here, i.e., as new/revised/original, but I do like the leather waist pieces and the feather touches.
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Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
I love the aesthetic of the brand but tend to dislike the collection. They often look poorly crafted and ill-fitting and she just doesn't manage to distinguish herself from the other young American brands like post-Lang Helmut Lang, A. Wang, Jeremy Laing, Mandy Coon, etc.
I actually like quite a few looks here (mainly the opening look, the leather jackets and the suits) but there is literally NOTHING that hasn't been done before. And if there is any progress in her designing it has to be very minimal because I just can't see it. Looks pretty much the same to me every season.
It's a very typical NYFW collection: nicely styled, some good pieces, very wearable but terribly unexciting and unoriginal.
mte.
The fit is off in a lot of the pieces, I do like the aesthetic, though. There are a few pieces that I like, but that's mostly because they resemble Demeulemeester's work. This collection looks like Ovitz picked out her favourite Ann D. elements and threw them together, without really developing her ideas.