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28-02-2013
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a bit too much of different things imo, like he wanted to try out a lot of styles, maybe too many, some of the pieces are really beautiful, the dress Ginta is wearing is so simple but very Lanvin i love it, other things are just a mess. pretty odd collection.

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28-02-2013
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I like the volume of this collection; it wasn't typically Lanvin I used to like that give us a lot of pretty dresses. I see some changes which I admire it at least we get to see something new.

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28-02-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simple_elegance View Post
OMG, I would NOT want to be covered in those insect brooches.
I WOULD.

Love this!. The beginning seems like an inconsistent warm-up, then it gets so good.. love the shapes, lengths, accessories, the embroidered insects, the palette.. it reminds me of Alber's shows from around 10 years ago exactly (or more like 2004), not too princess-y and cheesy but not too sober either, perfectly balanced.. maybe the issue is that it's split in looks so you got excess in one and something more serene in another (unlike the way he did it back in the same when it was all in one), but I still love the energy it emits, and many of these pieces. Haven't been into his work for years so this is a pleasant surprise for me.

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28-02-2013
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wow the styling was really bad this season.

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28-02-2013
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I didn't like it yesterday..but when I see it in HQ..I'm in love
The colors and the shapes and jewellery and insects. Yes it's a funny and creative collection and it's beautiful too!

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28-02-2013
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this is all over the place ... but i'm intrigued by the experimentation with fuller skirts, which he is showing at retail. seems like he was unwilling to commit to a single silhouette & wanted to include something for everyone. i prefer beetles to writhing serpents ... my least favorite thing is the 'help' necklace. there is a lack of coherence here that is unusual for him, but there's still a lot to love ... perhaps much more than in a single-theme collection.

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28-02-2013
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wwd review ...

Quote:
“Help.” “Cool.” Those two words — telegraphed via flamboyant message necklaces — bookended Alber Elbaz’s brilliant Lanvin collection on Thursday night. The first came on a girl wearing a black dress; the second, the same girl, now in more upbeat platinum, though tears ran down her face. Whether the tears were genuine and personal, show shtick or the result of a wayward eyelash in her eye, they fueled the feeling that this show was as emotional as it was dazzling.

Casting fashion as an emotional discipline can sound pretentious or over the top; clothes don’t cry, laugh or feel. Yet they elicit intense responses, and any given collection also results from its designer’s mind-set of the moment. During a preview on Tuesday, Elbaz said that after presenting his spring show last season, he paid more attention than usual to the happenings of fashion. “I felt this change of direction, a kind of crazy [mood] in Paris that I didn’t see before. Bloggers and editors who are all about being photographed and then designers who are mad at each other, and all of a sudden, that whole thing. You question everything, and you start asking, ‘[Do] I belong here anymore? Is it what I want to do for the rest of my life?’” Soon after, Elbaz found the antidote to that despair in Tilda Swinton’s show “The Impossible Wardrobe” at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo. In it, against her simple white robe, Swinton highlighted various historic fashion items handed to her by curator Olivier Saillard. “What I saw,” Elbaz said, “is that it really is about the craft.”

The craft, and his long-held belief that fashion, his fashion at least, is first and foremost for the women who wear it. The fusion of those two tenets made for a breathtaking collection, one that, while utterly singular in its beauty and wistful mood, offered a rich variety of spectacular clothes. He started with a basic building block: a long-sleeve stocking dress over which he layered a range, from bustier dresses to coats. If one could identify a single item as dominant, it was the black dress, shown in renditions from the plainest charmeuse to moody tiered lace to a divine strapless dancing frock with pale organza rose at the hip. There were gorgeous day suits, a pair of divine day-into-evening frilly shirts (one with a two-tier black skirt, the other, mannish trousers) and coats worthy of the season, including a tweed trench with alluring godets in back. Elbaz went flamboyant as a myriad colorful butterfly brooches sewn onto a cocktail number, and sober as a black long-sleeve, jewel-neck dress. And he showed exquisite furs, dip-dyed jackets and endless boas, each with a knitted sleeve attached to one end.

It all reached the height of glamour without sacrificing the emotional tone. Perhaps that’s why Elbaz accessorized his last look with the necklace flaunting “cool,” though he claims to dislike the word. Fashion with glamour, beauty and heart — what’s cooler than that?

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01-03-2013
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I like the deconstructed looks, and also that he showed some of the dressy dresses with flat oxfords. Some looks are quite nice, but it is kind of scattershot. I do NOT like the hip-hop jewelry but some of the insect brooches are kind of cool; or maybe I am predisposed, being a Kafka lover?? There are some really cute dresses and coats here and a couple of suits that I'd love to own too. Honestly? I don't mind this collection overall, but it does lack coherence.

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01-03-2013
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The best pieces of this collection are like the OKAY pieces from Alber`s stellar collections. There were a lot of pieces that I wanted to steal and burn because they were so bad! What on earth was he thinking about those necklaces? Help? Love? Loveeee(?)? Hot? It completely ruined the mood of the look. The insect broaches were lovely on some pieces but horrible on some. The last few looks with the embellishments were disgusting. What an overkill.

Maybe it was my fault that I expected too much

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01-03-2013
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Not what I was expecting at all. I can't say that it's all bad
because there are some really beautiful dresses but most of this is pretty bad .

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01-03-2013
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As someone said earlier, it's definitely the styling. I am sure that if we could break up some looks, separate pieces would be spectacular. It's just all over the place right now, a bad pile of beautiful clothes.

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01-03-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lady stardust View Post
I didn't like it yesterday..but when I see it in HQ..I'm in love
The colors and the shapes and jewellery and insects. Yes it's a funny and creative collection and it's beautiful too!
after the hq's and looking at all the details i agree, it is very beautiful

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01-03-2013
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Quote:
Lanvin: Breaking Away
By CATHY HORYN


Alber Elbaz was all over the place at Lanvin. There was no theme or through-line in his show on Thursday night. Why, the jumbled format of the show was like something from the past.

It was marvelous.

Mr. Elbaz has evidently figured out that the contemporary fashion show is a killer of mood. It zaps energy. There are already too many fashion shows, with the same models and the same pumping music, more or less; so who had the genius idea that the structure of collections had to be in lockstep? Who decided that there should be a beginning, middle and end, with digestible portions of day and evening wear? And is there a penalty if a designer decides to break out of this formula? Will he be goaded by unthinking producers or bosses or editors, who just want him to stick to the same script?

For Mr. Elbaz, this change has been a long time in coming. He has expressed frustration with the hamster-wheel of fashion. But he’s a smart guy. He thinks about all this stuff and he cares, if only for the sake of his own happiness and sanity, and those of the people who work with him at Lanvin.

So he did something about it. He created a collection that reflects the tastes of many women, and not merely one lady bountiful with erratic mood swings. And he abandoned the easy-serve method of showing you these wonderful clothes, in neat lifestyle bundles. He just threw them at you—the tough, the snooty, the flowery, the foxy, the sedate, the overdone.

Don’t care for a particular look? Not your thing? Well, as Melissa McCarthy said in “Bridesmaids,” “Look away!”

The opening looks included a ditzy silk tunic splashed with chiffon flowers, a severe coat dress to wear to a board meeting, and a long-sleeve black velvet dress that would thrill your grandmother. The collection just got better and better. One second you would be questioning the taste of a bouncy print dress with piles of chains around the model’s neck, including one that said “hot,” and the next moment, a beautiful dress in pale rose silk would appear, draped to one side as if someone blew on the fabric.

What Mr. Elbaz did wasn’t remarkable. It just took a little more thought than usual, and maybe a little more desire to do things differently.
nytimes.com

some very interesting points in this review, really adds to the collection imho

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01-03-2013
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Some interesting pieces. I like this collection.
But why would you wear a necklace that said 'HELP'?


Last edited by jeffandtheworld; 01-03-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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01-03-2013
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Usually Lanvin never fails to me, but I can't find any interesting pieces on this collections.

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