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14-05-2008
  1
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Lemaire by Christophe Lemaire
I got intrigued by this line after seeing it styled in the new issue of Encens.

{article and images via refinery 29}

April 22, 2008
Profiles

Sonic Youth

Lacoste's main man has a solo moment with Lemaire. By Ryan Haase
There's one item you won't find in the new sportswear line, Lemaire—a polo shirt. This is no small omission, considering the designer, Christophe Lemaire, is by day the creative director of Lacoste. But Lemaire comes from a wholly different section of the designer's sketchbook. "At Lacoste, I'm immersed in their universe, there is a very strong brand DNA," he says. "At Lemaire, I'm starting from a blank page, everything is linked to my personal sensibilities and it is a lot more introverted. It's like therapy."

Designing the new label has reconnected Lemaire with his musical roots. In 1985, before making clothes, he spent nights DJing in Paris clubs. "The music scene always had so much more style than the fashion scene," he says. "It was more spontaneous, more free." He left the turntables, however, to work for Yves Saint Laurent and then Christian Lacroix. He started his first line, Christophe Lemaire, in 1990, but later shuttered it after joining Lacoste in 2000. "I didn't want to let 'Christophe Lemaire' go to waste, though. I still felt like I had something to say." As a result, he re-launched the co-ed label last year.

For spring, Lemaire envisions a '60s beach party with a scratch of new wave attitude. Women's pleated pants cinched with high, tight cuffs (perfect for running through sand) are paired with a blousy top and voluminous, whisper-weight trench coat. A mini shirtdress (perfect for pulling over a swimsuit) features a palm tree print rendered in smudged, angsty charcoal. There's a slight tension to the clothes, as though they are worn by a pale person who's trapped in the tropics, trying to avoid sunburn. "It's what Siouxsie Sioux and Ian Curtis would wear in Hawaii," suggests Lemaire. No doubt they'd appreciate the piano-key print on an unstructured sleeveless tunic, or the pastel geometric belt that obliquely recalls an '80s electric guitar.

A men's shirt in sun-faded pink has a prim cropped collar that fastens tight around the throat. Another top, splattered with bright colors, hangs breezily away from the body, with splayed lapels that reveal a louche triangle of chest. "There is a cool classicism to these items," says Lemaire. "They are essential pieces with a bit of dandyism…a stain of counter-culture."

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14-05-2008
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14-05-2008
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14-05-2008
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The website has more pictures and information on stockists: lemairestyle.com

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14-05-2008
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looks good - not exactly ground breaking fashion but very wearable. i love the pants in the second pic just above - they remind me of a pair of Louise Amstrup ones that i missed out on recently. I'm going to be in berlin in a couple of weeks will check out the stockist there - thanks for posting

ps -any idea of price range?

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14-05-2008
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Whoa! The styling is flawless! I love it!

Some of the pieces I like .. but the who khaki number on the guy was blah ... his patterned pieces in particular stand out ...

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17-05-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitten_77 View Post
looks good - not exactly ground breaking fashion but very wearable. i love the pants in the second pic just above - they remind me of a pair of Louise Amstrup ones that i missed out on recently. I'm going to be in berlin in a couple of weeks will check out the stockist there - thanks for posting

ps -any idea of price range?
you're welcome. The styling was even better in the magazine, I wish I could scan it somehow.

I'm not sure about the pricing, but i'm guessing it would be similar to other contemporary lines. I hope you will give a report when you come back from Berlin!

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18-05-2008
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^even camera shots would do fine, laika :p
Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramarine View Post
Whoa! The styling is flawless! I love it!

Some of the pieces I like .. but the who khaki number on the guy was blah ... his patterned pieces in particular stand out ...
that was the one i liked ! it has a very nice shape, the large coat
i am thinking of some way to create that same look, being as short as i am trenches and so on not so good in shorter people.. perhaps the hem line would be hiked up a bit, for good proportion

& also the grey one ... looks like a stiff canvas material. he holds the collar up

great thread & collection, laika~ thanks

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18-05-2008
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you're welcome, gius.

ok, not the best quality pics, but i think you can get the idea. :p

From Encens 21
Photographer: Sybille Walter
Stylist: Samuel Drira






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18-05-2008
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yep...
the styling in the mag is better...i agree...:p
thanks miss laika...love love love those images...


it recalls a better part of the 80's...though it all still recalls the 80's...

i have said it before...but i will say it again...
we cannot ever seem to move forward from the 80's rehash...
and here it continues...

the stuff actually looks japanese in the last pics you posted laika..imo..

matsuda, issey miyake's plantation, comme and yohji all come to mind..
this is more thompson twins and dexy's midnight runners than souxsie and ian though..
at least the way the last pics are styled...

maybe we are heading out of the NEW WAVE 80's and into the NEW ROMANTIC 80's???...

*and so much for all the body conscious stuff all the british magazines were going on and on about, huh?...
i SAID that was not going to happen...
...

it's like asking women to put a girdle back on now ...
not gonna happen...
:p

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Last edited by softgrey; 18-05-2008 at 11:30 AM.
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18-05-2008
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Quote:
"There is a cool classicism to these items," says Lemaire. "They are essential pieces with a bit of dandyism…a stain of counter-culture."
this is an AMAZING quote...
it's what i have been reading the market is looking for...
classic pieces with a hint of romanticism...
looks like his timing and instincts are pretty good with this one...

as much as this is a bad climate for fashion...
i think his formula will strike a chord with the younger market who seem to be hungry for classicism and romanticism...

:p

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18-05-2008
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wow! the styling is absolutely amazing. I'm so impressed - can't wait to see the pieces IRL....

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18-05-2008
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80s rules

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20-05-2008
  14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey View Post
yep...
the styling in the mag is better...i agree...:p
thanks miss laika...love love love those images...


it recalls a better part of the 80's...though it all still recalls the 80's...

i have said it before...but i will say it again...
we cannot ever seem to move forward from the 80's rehash...
and here it continues...

the stuff actually looks japanese in the last pics you posted laika..imo..

matsuda, issey miyake's plantation, comme and yohji all come to mind..
this is more thompson twins and dexy's midnight runners than souxsie and ian though..
at least the way the last pics are styled...

maybe we are heading out of the NEW WAVE 80's and into the NEW ROMANTIC 80's???...
great, great post.

i confess--the 80's Japanese feel is exactly what got me interested. :p
Although I wonder how much of it is due to the ( really fantastic) styling.

Can you say more about the "new romantic 80's?" What would be examples?

I am really intrigued by this "classicism with a hint of romanticism", as you put it. This seems to be a theme for the entire issue of the magazine. Here is a bit from the introduction that reminds me a little of what you are saying and of that line you quoted:

...even if today's independant designer only survives by seeing his uncertainty rate rise, those whom we defend, those who kindle the feeling of having lived very near a morphological X all seem to have retained the lessons of their 80's elders: the present has value only when you have first taken some distance from your customary habits....These "artist"-designers, exiled from the spirit of the times are less and less numerous. But the few who remain together possess a disconcerting style fraught with wisdom. Like Matthew Ames, reaching affirmatively for a maximum of honesty and purity, or Juun J, who defines himself as a "guardian of the classics." All resemblance to the past is purely coincidental: all the same, their spring-summer collections tend toward outfits with muted lines, toward fullness without the slightest abberation, a soft look that was exorcised by Giorgio Armani at his peak circa 1984 and that has become an official register for the 2008 season. Like a talisman.

I bumped Matthew Ames thread here.

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20-05-2008
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^ Oh !! New romantic.. It's a music style ..

it reminds me of something called "Visual kei" in Japan.. where the band members/singers will dress up (even in drag) to convey a persona/mood in the music
but their fashion sense is probably a bit different, although close .. makeup ..

One band that comes to mind is Culture Club
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums...lub-45174.html

newwaveinparis |

Also David Bowie

& imo Tears for Fears ..although they didn't dress up, I think
but they had this feel in their music and voices
like the song "Shout" (Shout shout let it all out these are the things I can do without come on I'm talking to you.. lol)

singer for The Cure

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