Louis Vuitton F/W 2017.18 Paris - Page 2 - the Fashion Spot
 
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07-03-2017
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Lola701's Avatar
 
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It's a good collection, nothing more and nothing less.
I like the new ideas, the allure and the way he reinterpreted his old ideas.
It's not his best and for sure not his worst collection (the Rio resort take that prize).

I don't expect that much greatness from Nicolas at Vuitton because it's not Balenciaga. It's not a fashion house, the goals and the scale are not the same. They wanted to establish a more identifiable RTW and they did. They have now a permanent collection and everything is more coherent than during Marc tenure.

I really like the coat on Rianne, the fur on Nathalie and the white shirt dress.
I prefered the Prefall collection with the over-the-knee patent boots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dodencebt View Post
I truly hope Ghesquiere is using the tenure at Vuitton to save big paychecks, gather business expertise and start a namesake brand. This otherwise has no point. He knows his clothes are secondary to the accessories and I refuse to believe that this is where he sees himself in the long run.
He declared last year of french TV that he will launch his own brand and his contract expires in 2018 so...It should come sooner than we think.

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07-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
He declared last year of french TV that he will launch his own brand and his contract expires in 2018 so...It should come sooner than we think.
Wao, I don't know if I'll be sad with someone else going to LV but I just wish that this fashion chair game would stop.

I think he has done great collections to LV, I would just be scared to replace him...looking at what is happening at Saint Laurent and Dior.


Last edited by Inlimbo; 07-03-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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07-03-2017
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At the end of the day, I still like this collection but agree with all the criticism. Nothing bad nothing great either. Very approachable. I haven't truly been in love with any of his work for LV since Resort 2016.

He's holding back all of his great ideas.

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07-03-2017
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this is a luxury house, why does he feel the need to design such ugly clothes?? I don't get it

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07-03-2017
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The conceptual idea for Louis Vuitton in my opinion seems to about a wardrobe. Each season I see Nicholas expanding that idea. It's sensible not necessarily profound as his work at Balenciaga was. I thought it was decent showing.

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07-03-2017
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This could be Coach... My god, Nicolas doesn't even try anymore.

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07-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inlimbo View Post
Wao, I don't know if I'll be sad with someone else going to LV but I just wish that this fashion chair game would stop.

I think he has done great collections to LV, I would just be scared to replace him...looking at what is happening at Saint Laurent and Dior.
Yes, he has done great collections at LV. We cannot deny the influence of his first collection there but it's clear that he is holding back a lot.
He is always re-interpreting ideas from his past Vuitton collections...He designs like someone who will leave at the end of his contract.

I can see Alber or Stefano replacing him at Vuitton even if i would bet more on Alber as he is quite close with Delphine Arnault.
But, we still have J.W.Anderson who is doing a great job at Loewe and who can takeover Vuitton... But it will be a dangerous strategy for Loewe after all the efforts and considering that it's getting better and better (in every sense of the words).

We'll see their strategy for Givenchy first but a brand like Vuitton needs the energy of a superstar designer.

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07-03-2017
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Where the hell has fashion gone in 10 years..... This just sad comparing the two collections. Honestly if this isn't prove that fashion is dead I don't know what is


vogue.com


Last edited by TheoG; 07-03-2017 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Added source
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07-03-2017
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i loved it. great way to end the season...honestly paris was the only city that really contributed anything and the details of some of the clothes are so wonderful it's funny i don't like any of the LV bags in the store i never even look, i only ever like the RTW!

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07-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchhie View Post
Where the hell has fashion gone in 10 years..... This just sad comparing the two collections. Honestly if this isn't prove that fashion is dead I don't know what is
It's quite unfair to compare what he did at Balenciaga to what he is doing at Vuitton.
Different houses, different goals, different mindset, different audience.
Plus, you don't design the same when you have to put a bag almost on every looks compared to when you didn't have to.


Last edited by TheoG; 07-03-2017 at 06:41 PM.
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07-03-2017
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^I don't think so, Lola. I think that comparison is really spot on. Phoebe Philo's Céline is the proof that you can be commercial and smart at the same time. His Vuitton has been a total trainwreck, and it's only gotten worse with time...

When he was at Balenciaga he lived in the studio. Now... I'm gonna be smart and just say that you can easily tell he doesn't put effort at all in the design process.

There's no passion at all here. Nicolas' team was the best one at researching. At Vuitton, even if Buonomano is still there, it looks like they just go on autopilot... There's no effort at all. Everything is really basic, and not just in a commercial way. It's poor. If I saw this, I'd think it's Prabal Gurung trying to copy Ghesquière.

The shapes are ill-fitting. I know that at Balenciaga they did thousands of toiles till they got it right. Here... you can tell they do two at most. He seems done with fashion. And his Balenciaga is maybe what has influenced me the most, so I'm not being harsh for the sake of it...

I just can't deal with his Vuitton. I haven't looked at a Vuitton collection twice... And MAS is also in her worst moment ever. She just doesn't try anymore either. They are so full of themselves. Ghesquière is enjoying his fame and his money, which is nice and he deserves it, but I wish he let fashion alone. He just doesn't have it anymore.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creative View Post
^I don't think so, Lola. I think that comparison is really spot on. Phoebe Philo's Céline is the proof that you can be commercial and smart at the same time. His Vuitton has been a total trainwreck, and it's only gotten worse with time...

When he was at Balenciaga he lived in the studio. Now... I'm gonna be smart and just say that you can easily tell he doesn't put effort at all in the design process.

There's no passion at all here. Nicolas' team was the best one at researching. At Vuitton, even if Buonomano is still there, it looks like they just go on autopilot... There's no effort at all. Everything is really basic, and not just in a commercial way. It's poor. If I saw this, I'd think it's Prabal Gurung trying to copy Ghesquière.

The shapes are ill-fitting. I know that at Balenciaga they did thousands of toiles till they got it right. Here... you can tell they do two at most. He seems done with fashion. And his Balenciaga is maybe what has influenced me the most, so I'm not being harsh for the sake of it...

I just can't deal with his Vuitton. I haven't looked at a Vuitton collection twice... And MAS is also in her worst moment ever. She just doesn't try anymore either. They are so full of themselves. Ghesquière is enjoying his fame and his money, which is nice and he deserves it, but I wish he let fashion alone. He just doesn't have it anymore.
100% agree

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07-03-2017
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^^
What you said is exactly the reason why i say that it's unfair to compare this to Balenciaga.
I'll wait to see what he will do when he will launch his own brand before deciding if he still got it or not.
Like you said, he is enjoying his money and his fame. He doesn't have to worry about having his proposal for boutiques rejected, he doesn't have to fight for his ideas to be produced, he doesn't even have to worry about if his clothes are selling or not. He launched 3/4 bags, they are selling, Mr Arnault is happy and everybody is happy.

Yes, Phoebe Philo turned things around at Celine but you must remember that when she was announced, people were very dubitative about what she could bring out. She had to prove herself...

Look at what is happening with Marc Jacobs right now. He gave it all to Louis Vuitton....And his brand? In red! At least, he is enjoying his life now...

I think Nicolas can still surprise us... But not at Vuitton.
I wouldn't be surprise to know that his process today is similar to Rousteing's process.

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^I really hope you are right and that he can give us something more interesting under his own label. I'm not that positive, tho, but really wish he proves me wrong.

When I learnt he was the new CD of Vuitton womenswear line I thought he would do wonders. He had everything here: all the money a rtw line could ever dream of, the access to any material, to the best engineers, to work with whoever he would like...

If he hasn't managed to produce exciting shows with all that I don't think he could do it in the future. Even the settings are not that good... And at Balenciaga they were really cool.

Even when he did bags at Balenciaga (SS09) they were nice... At Vuitton...

Maybe the fact that it's his own line makes Nicolas step his game up. And perhaps not having that much money is positive too...

I am more and more against second chapters in fashion. Tom Ford, Ghesquière, Hedi, Olivier, Galliano, Raf... They haven't been as good as they were before. I'm just beyond happy my beloved Lang hasn't made a comeback.


Last edited by Creative; 07-03-2017 at 06:57 PM.
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07-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creative View Post
I'm just beyond happy my beloved Lang hasn't made a comeback.
I think that his "Comeback to PFW" in 2002 was enough for him. At the time, people thougth that his fashion was "passé". Thankfully he had built a cult around his brand...

In fashion, everybody has to go through that moment when they aren't what they used to be. I don't believe that it should forbid them to design.

I'm not missing Hedi but i know a lot of guys do. You don't care about Tom Ford and while he is not as good as he used to be, his shows gives me something that no other designer do.

I'm very unimpressed by the quality of designs and cut of these "young designers" and while i'm not at all a nostalgic, after a fashion week like this one, i'm still happy that some of those "passé" designers still exist.

Today, everybody wants to be intellectual even if most of them are doesn't have that culture. I just want good cut, good clothes, fun & glamour. I go to buy a skirt because i like it and i like the designer who did it. I don't care if the designer was thinking about the troubles of the world while designing it.

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