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23-04-2013
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Madonna Fashion Exhibit
Macy's and Iconix Ready Pop-up Madonna Fashion Exhibit

By David Lipke


Madonna at the 1984 MTV Video Music Awards.
Photo By Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images/Courtesy of Material Girl


Madonna in Jean Paul Gaultier on her 1990 Blonde Ambition World Tour.
Photo By Jim Smeal/WireImage/Courtesy of Material Girl


Madonna at the 1991 Academy Awards.
Photo By Pierre-Gilles Vidoli

Madonna is raiding her own closets to boost her Material Girl juniors line at Macy’s.

The pop star is loaning some of her most iconic costumes from over the years for a special one-night-only exhibit at the Macy’s Century City location in Los Angeles on Thursday. On display for just two hours, from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. that night in the Material Girl shop will be seminal outfits such as the Jean Paul Gaultier-designed corsets from the 1990 “Blonde Ambition” concert tour and the shimmering, beaded white Bob Mackie gown she poured herself into for the 1991 Academy Awards, accessorizing for the night with a fox fur stole and Michael Jackson.

“The pop-up exhibit at Macy’s perfectly exemplifies the inspiration and spirit of the Material Girl line and will give my fans a great opportunity to see the evolution of my style over the years,” Madonna told WWD.

She chose the outfits herself for the tightly edited exhibit, with an assist from her longtime stylist and costume designer Arianne Phillips, who is overseeing its installation at Macy’s. It’s the first time Madonna has loaned out pieces from her own archives for a public display dedicated solely to her costume history. Previous shows, such as a retrospective called “Simply Madonna” that ran in London in 2009 and Australia in 2010, featured pieces owned by collectors.

Madonna has previously lent pieces for the Gaultier exhibit, “The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From The Sidewalk To The Catwalk,” that has been making the rounds of museums in Montreal, Dallas and Amsterdam over the past two years. That show is currently at the Kunsthal in Rotterdam and Madonna’s costumes have been pulled from it temporarily and flown to Los Angeles for the Macy’s installation.

Some of the looks that will be on view date back to a time when the teenage customers of the fast-fashion Material Girl line were not yet born. Their mothers may be more appreciative of the printed neon green stretch skirt she wore in the 1984 “Borderline” video. The design was a collaboration between designer Vivienne Westwood and artist Keith Haring, a close friend of Madonna’s who died from AIDS in 1990.

Also from the Eighties will be the black satin bustier with gold nipple caps and tassels from the “Open Your Heart” video. Phillips called this early corset look of Madonna’s “the genesis of the provocateur” in the pop star. “The theatrical nature of this costume shows the beginning of Madonna’s love for corsetry, taking an undergarment normally hidden, reinventing it with embellishments and exposing it,” she explained.

Perhaps Madonna’s single-most famous look in the exhibit dates back to 1984, when she donned a wedding dress and rolled around the floor of the MTV Video Music Awards to sing “Like a Virgin.” The entire ensemble — which was also worn for the song’s album cover and is on loan from the Hard Rock company — will be shown, including a white lace corset, white tulle skirt with dot motif, white tulle veil, white lace fingerless gloves and a silver “Boy Toy” belt.

“This was one of the most shocking, liberating and influential moments in pop culture and fashion history,” said Phillips of the MTV performance.

A more recent outfit selected by Madonna for the exhibit is the opening “Vogue” look from her 2004 “Re-Invention” tour, comprised of a pale purple beaded silk corset by Christian Lacroix, a black polyester bra by Fantasie of England and black spandex boy shorts by Capezio.

Phillips dubbed Madonna’s partnerships with Gaultier “collaborations that would become legendary.” While the singer has worked with a host of designers over the years, including Dolce & Gabbana, DSquared2 and Riccardo Tisci, her work with Gaultier has been particularly impactful. Two corset looks from 1990’s “Blonde Ambition” tour make the exhibit: a pink silk satin bodysuit with conical bust cups, paired with black pinstripe dress pants, which was worn for the opening “Express Yourself” number, and a gold lamé version, also with conical bust cups, worn for “Like a Virgin.”

“It’s a magical thing to bring all these iconic pieces together in one place,” said Dari Marder, chief marketing officer at Iconix Brand Group, which is Madonna’s partner in Material Girl, selling it into 600 Macy’s doors currently. “This will show customers how influential Madonna has been to fashion and how that influences Material Girl today.”


wwd.com

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23-04-2013
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from the woman that ripped off cult-singer cristina monet and cyndi lauper when she broke out.....

i'll give her a little credit thereafter for finding arianne phillips but that's it really. truth told,arianne is the one that really deserves the exhibition.

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24-04-2013
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arianne wasn't involved with madonna until much, much later...
not until after she did that eva peron movie---whatever that was called...
i'd say she started working with her around 2000

but she's good...
i give her credit, just not credit for the era when madonna was really influential...

anyway- yeah, i'm the first to say that madonna was doing what every girl in nyc was doing at the time...

but it is true, that when madonna broke, every girl in the WORLD was suddenly doing what the girls in nyc had been doing...
she may not have invented the look...
but she definitely perpetuated it through her global influence...

just like- gaultier designed the cone corset, bra, bustier, whatever...
but without madonna wearing it, very few people would have ever seen it...

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24-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
from the woman that ripped off cult-singer cristina monet and cyndi lauper when she broke out.....

i'll give her a little credit thereafter for finding arianne phillips but that's it really. truth told,arianne is the one that really deserves the exhibition.
Madonna ripped off Cyndi Lauper? That's news to me. And Madonna first started working with Arianne in 1998 on the Frozen video, so I hardly think she should get big credit here.

Anyway, this seems really exciting. Madonna has so many iconic looks, definitely wanna see how they put this up.

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i don't know her. claudia schiffer doesn't know her. she was never in paris, we don't know her.
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24-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc10 View Post
Madonna ripped off Cyndi Lauper? That's news to me. And Madonna first started working with Arianne in 1998 on the Frozen video, so I hardly think she should get big credit here.

Anyway, this seems really exciting. Madonna has so many iconic looks, definitely wanna see how they put this up.
it's pretty common knowledge...

:p:p:p

thx for the exact timing of arianne's employment...
i knew it was around then...

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24-04-2013
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actually arianne started working with madonna early 97 when she finished designing the costumes for the people vs. larry flynt....on recommendation from courtney. she is the one responsible for a lot of madge's transformation at that point. going from a walking fashion victim to looking like she actually had style.

but my point was that too much credit is given here when in reality madonna didn't create her looks....it was usually at the hands of somebody else or situation. it's not like when patti smith,debbie harry,siouxsie or as mentioned,cyndi lauper started they created their looks themselves.

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24-04-2013
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OT---
you know what i recently found out about debbie harry...?!
she said that she just wore what her really good friend told her to wear...
that friend was Stephen Sprouse!!!

...
that was such a bummer for me...:p
but it explains why she doesn't look as good these days as she did back then...

chrissie hynde , on the other hand...
well- i'd like to see anyone tell her what to wear!...
:p

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Last edited by softgrey; 24-04-2013 at 11:52 AM.
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25-04-2013
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yeah stephen provided a lot of her costumes(in fact is fondly remembered for debbie's razor-blade dress in the heart of glass shoot) in those days and he was very much an intrinsic part of that whole CBGB movement but it was a very close-knit group.....so it wasn't like he was some hired hand or it borrowed from other performers at the time. it was distinctly debbie. it was very much a hands-on era that involved a lot of DIY. but i digress.

i just don't see madonna in quite that same influential light....only the most visible.

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26-04-2013
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I despise everything about this narcissistic woman. And now they're doing an exhibit on her? It's known that EVERYONE in NYC in the eighties dressed like that and suddenly some girl comes along and acts like she's inventive. Just.. go away. Ugh.

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27-04-2013
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So much hate for saint Madge

Love this woman. Maybe it's where I grew up, but being a child of the 80's, people did not dress like Madonna before Madonna dressed like that. And it's precisely because of the look she had - which can only be described as trashy, at best. No one wanted to look like that before Madonna. People were trying to be like Alexis & Krystle from Dynasty. If it's anything from the 80's that should stick out (pun intended indeed), it would be shoulder pads, not Madonna.

And I never thought Madonna copied off of Cyndi Lauper. If anything, they're contemporaries.

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28-04-2013
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^^^ She was always hated: The mainstream thought she went too far, while the alternative crowd thought she didn't go far enough.

They should have gone back to 82-84 to show people what amazing style she had when she put together looks from rags, vintage and dance clothes. Sure, others around her were doing that look, but they weren't able to do it quite like her, so give the ol' girl some credit. By 85, she was huge and that wedding dress and Marylin-tribute had become a tiring gimmick. I hated those look. SHe was smart enough to move on, although the platinum-blonde Long Island Guidette thing was kind of gross, saved for when she occasionally channeled Marlene Dietrich.

I love love love old-skool Madonna-- with her mixture of Lower East Side Bgirl, disco dolly and remnants of Punk/New Romantic before she blew up in the mainstream. She was already BFF with Keith Haring and hung out with Maripol and dating Basquiat and running with the Bboys and DJs. Andy Warhol constantly mentions her in The Andy Warhol Dairies how beautiful she was and that she would be huge. There are so many video performances on YouTube that clearly shows her amazing sense of style back in the day. The woman deserves much more credit than most are willing to give her. Even Gaultier mentions how impressed he was with her when he first saw her performing at the Hycienda, wearing her rags, 500 rubber bracelets and rhinestones. Madonna did not rip-off Cindy Lauper. The only similarity in style between the two were that they both wore a ton of rubber and rhinestone bracelets. That's about it. Cyndi's look was all goofball 50s huasfrau on an acidtrip, while Madonna was all smoldering, sexy, funky club diva.

Along with old, old-skool Madonna, I loved the Bedtime Stories era of her career: She recaptured her funky, soulful spirit, all mingled with a high fashion sensibility veering on the 1920s: In Gaultier, Yohji, Galliano and those brilliant Versace campaigns of '95, and thanks to Lori Goldstein, who remains, in my eyes, madonna's best stylist. I just don't get Arianne Phillips.

Sadly, the Madonna of today-- complete with mangled cheeks, cheap and tacky clothing and perfume lines at discount department stores, and the desperation of a Gloria Swanson-personality clinging to youth is what the public will remember her as.

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29-04-2013
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Old skool Madge is also my favorite period, but her so-called "comeback" were also highlights for me. Personally, I love the "Ray of Light" and "Confessions" albums much more than her earlier ones. Her newer music blows. But I still love her.

I wish this collection moves to the east coast so I can see it. Why they would inaugurate it out west when she started out in NYC is puzzling to me. And that 2-hour window of opportunity to see it? Are these people trying to cause a scene? You know it's going to be mobbed.

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29-04-2013
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This mini "exhibit" is totally sh*t-- just a few pieces used to promoting her crap line MG. I don't think there's going to be a mob; it was already shown at some mall in Italy a while ago, and it just looked like a typical window display.

I've always preferred underdog-Madonna-- when she had something to prove with the whole world dumping on her. The Erotica/Sex era was also one of my favs. Stylistically, it was one of her more oddly-sexy output: The combination of Marlene-meets-Andy Warhol-meets-Visconti stoned housewife was irresistible to me. God, she had wicked style back then.

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29-04-2013
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Completely agree with your assessment on Madonna's style, Phuel. It seems the woman cannot just win.

I had read something about Goldstein having been her stylist all throughout the early-mid nineties, right up to her Evita/Something to Remember era, and it's really kind of obvious if you look back in retrospect. Also, I totally agree about her style for her Erotica/Sex, which I consider to be her true creative pinnacle.

And just for the record, I don't think anyone can truly tell this woman what to do/wear. Hasn't anyone here ever heard of the concept of collaboration?

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29-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuel View Post
This mini "exhibit" is totally sh*t-- just a few pieces used to promoting her crap line MG. I don't think there's going to be a mob; it was already shown at some mall in Italy a while ago, and it just looked like a typical window display.
Oh that's disappointing, I read the article to mean an exhibit the way anyone would think an exhibit would be, not some window display.

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