Thank God for you guys. i always feel like an outsider when I comment on all these costume-y collections, and then someone else points out how I'm not versed in fashion to know any better at what I'm looking at. But this is just laughable.
littleathquakes,the truth is this used to be fantastically inspiring.....everything zazie described.....but it just looks like a colossal joke now. if want the real artisanal with genuine humour,thoughtfulness and unadulterated inventiveness and craftsmanship,look pre-2009.
it's like they're thinking WWMD (what would margiela do), and they've got it all wrong. It's like they think of an idea and combine with two more ideas and call it MMM . I would never say I was a fan of MMM (i didnt follow the brand heavily), but there is a very noticeable difference
I don't think it's all terrible. If this was designed by Martin, some would instantly like it while they won't even give it a chance because it's Diesel now.
I think if they loose the theatrics, the collection as a whole would work much better-- like the masks. It's the same thing with Sarah at McQueen; if she were to just dispense with the forced theatrics, the designs would be much better. But, I suppose they feel they need to remind people over and over that it's "Margiela", or "McQueen" by constantly reusing their trademarks accents.
I really like several of the simpler shift-dresses with the understated fusion touches. The combination of bugle-beads in classic Chinese graphics at the bottom-half for a shift-dress that has zippered slits on the side, then morphs into a zippered collared sweater design on top-hlaf has a subtle wit to it that I really adore. Same with the one that's part-trenchcoat, part-beaded-shift that "deteriorates" into part-Chinese gown. As well, the simpler beaded dresses that resemble tatters and Martin's trdemark white-paint-- all done in embroidery and beading, is really nice.
There are about 5 or 6 pieces that has a sly wit and cheekiness to them, but the designs remain subtle and simple, and they have a lived-in look that I find charming and warm; they're pieces that will have a long, versatile life in a women's wardrobe and not worn just once.