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20-01-2008
  31
Stitch:the Hand
 
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well,you know his artisanal used to be the 6 collection and when staff bought part of the maison,he had to tone down the esoteric nature of his mainline so he moved that overt creative spirit(meaning without limitations of commerce) mixed with the handmade spirit and melded them together.

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20-01-2008
  32
a hymn to darkness
 
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The menswear is always so fluid and if this makes any sense - 'just so...'

The shoes are so amazingly good. The boots esp.! As are the coats and jckts. Such fine tailoring. The wire bits are so brawny yet alluring.

Thanks for posting, Scott!

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20-01-2008
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I think for a while...Sebastian Muenier was only controlling/designing the 6 collection...and since he was doing so well for the company...they invested moreso in what he was doing..and promoted him to the men's collection.

I was once a huge supporter of Margiela...but I sorta get upset and dis-illusioned when Diesel stpped in...so, I sorta lost my interest in Margiela for a while. I felt the same way with Raf Simons..I have plenty of his early pieces...but after he joined the Prada Corp...I got really fed-up with most of my fashion hero's!!

When I worked at the private boutique in Boston...my boss actually introduced me to Patrick Scallon (he's Margiela's PR person)..and some other girl that was travelling with him in Boston. Unfortunately....Matin Margiela himself, was NOT there..ugggg!!!

Patrick was wearing a beige trenhcoat that was repainted in white...some sorta beige tutleneck sweater, and re-worked jeans. The Asian girl he was with was wearing one of Margiela's classic re-worked denin skirts...made from denim jeans. Honestly, I was sorta intimidated...I didn't have much to say to them (cuz I couldn't get any words out of my mouth from nerves..hahaha)...but I just listened to what they had to say about the company...and debated punching/knocking-out Patrick for that amazing trench we was wearing...hahaha!!!

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20-01-2008
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Also...what I really love about Margiela is how his collection never looks like the wearer is "trying" too hard to be "fashionable".

I just had a look at Dior Homme...and it looks too severe for my taste. It looks like the models are trying too hard to be "stylish". The white Kabuki makeup..the heavy vampire-esqu eyeliner...yuchh....it has too much theatrics/drama for me.

The only piece I would dismiss from Margiela's collection is the Michael Jackson-ish leather jacket with the bold V on front....give the model a glitter-glove...and he's good-to-go. I understand the whole 80's influence thing is comming back (and has been for several seasons)...but that jacket is just ridiculous!!!

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20-01-2008
  35
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Very cool collection! I want some items!

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20-01-2008
  36
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well,i doubt that margiela would be patrick(who's also often shown in the white lab coat for the presentations)and his other business partner jenny mierens does most of the business and presentation work so he can just create behind the scenes.

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20-01-2008
  37
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you're welcome,wiw

the shoes are indeed stupendous! and there too,the best he's done. its great...immensely inspiring.

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20-01-2008
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Scott..you seem to be a very interesting person...and you obviously have a passion for Margiela. Jenny Meirens is also a retired professor of fashion...from Belgium. She's the one who actually encouraged Margiela do initiate his first collection...after he left as Gaultier's side-kick. Jenny doesn't speak very much....she's very much like Margiela, himself. I've never met her (or Margiela)...but they both seem very connected to one another.

The girl who was travelling with Patrick was definitely NOT Jenny Meirens....the girl he was with was Asian...hahaha!!!

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20-01-2008
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Oh...and Scotty...Patrick was not wearing the standard white lab-coat. The lab coat doesn't have a lapel..and it's not coated in white housepaint. The coat that Patrick was wearing was a re-worked trenchcoat. It had epaullets on the shoulders...a belt with a HUGE buckle in the front, etc etc. It was definitely painted white...cuz in the places where be bent his elbows, the paint was cracking and creasing...the original beige color was showing from underneath...hahaha!!

It was many years ago....probably around the year 2000...that's when I stopped working for the boutique. I'm now getting much older from when I worked there, originally. I'm now 36 years old...hahaha!!!

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20-01-2008
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And rumor has it......The reason why Margiela stopped communicating with the press was b/c.....one of his first collections was presented in an abandoned playground for children. It was outside...and most of the audience consisted of children who actually made the presentation/invites to the show with crayons. Anyway...the fashion press decided to print that Margiela was "exploting homeless children"...and that concept was never Margiela's intention. Basically...what he was trying to communicate was the subject of neglect...how we all now live in a very disposable society...hence, the "abandoned" playground. Most of the pieces in the show were actually found objects that had been discarded...but, through Margiela's hands...he breathed "new-life" into things that people had disposed of. Margiela is very anti-fashion...and that is the quintessential "ideal" that I aspire to....hahaha!!

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21-01-2008
  41
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i dont like the INCOGNITO on men...

i need some of these shoulder-padded jackets!

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21-01-2008
  42
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^ Im on the list for the incognito. They're a little steep at 600 bucks but I love them.

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21-01-2008
  43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margielamike2004 View Post
And rumor has it......The reason why Margiela stopped communicating with the press was b/c.....one of his first collections was presented in an abandoned playground for children. It was outside...and most of the audience consisted of children who actually made the presentation/invites to the show with crayons. Anyway...the fashion press decided to print that Margiela was "exploting homeless children"...and that concept was never Margiela's intention. Basically...what he was trying to communicate was the subject of neglect...how we all now live in a very disposable society...hence, the "abandoned" playground. Most of the pieces in the show were actually found objects that had been discarded...but, through Margiela's hands...he breathed "new-life" into things that people had disposed of. Margiela is very anti-fashion...and that is the quintessential "ideal" that I aspire to....hahaha!!
that doesn't surprise me very much. the press,especially mainstream fashion press,can be rather ignorant. sometimes they just never get it. i love the anti about him as well. i just think margiela is a purist and he's got an actual vision...ideas....and makes clothes for people with a personality.

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21-01-2008
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Exactly, Scott. Margiela is certainly a purist...and through several years of fighting to survive (without going bankrupt) amongst the fashion elite, like the Prada Corp, Gucci, LVMH (stiff competition)..he still tries to remain true to his integrity, his beliefs, and his ideal of what "fashion" should be...or rather, how most people should perceive it.

There is a rhyme and reason to every stance or action (even design concept) that Margiela takes. For one example....he intentionally made it a practice to cover all of his models faces as they walked down the runway. Why??...well, a close observation of the fashion system and how it operates today..it's very clear to see that we now live in an age when too much hype, media, and attention is placed upon the "model celebrity" of the year...like Naomi or Linda E. for example. Their stardom unfortunately out-shines the clothes they're wearing, and they become the focus of attention. The clothes become secondary. Margiela would rather his audience view his clothes, not the models. The issue of "who was wearing what" becomes irrelevant...as it should be.

Margiela makes the same perceptions about himself. For him, it doesn't matter to anyone what he looks like, what his opinion is, what his lifestyle is like, what brand or color his underwear are, etc etc. He considers himself to be a designer, not another "celebrity" designer, such as Tom Ford once was at the house of Gucci.

Margiela doesn't like to advertise himself or his collections to a mass audience. Most of what society has done to fashion could be viewed in 2 aspects. Through advertising...it helps to aid a designer to reach a larger audience...but unfortunately, advertising also places too much emphasis on the subject of "status". For example?? A toilet-plunger no longer becomes just a "standard" a toilet-plunger....once you place a Prada triangle, or a double-G logo on it's surface...you elevate it's status and marketability. One of Margiela's collections actually dealt with the issue os "Standards"...and "Stereotypes", which I thought was amazingly witty.

A few things about Margiela have certainly changed (unfortunately)....but most of what he originally intended, has still remained true to this day and age.

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21-01-2008
  45
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Not really feeling this.

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