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20-11-2012
  511
scenester
 
Castafura's Avatar
 
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Sooo much stock left in London, seems that for the majority of the jackets - especially the leather - the size UK8 has been returned. All the dresses in various sizes in Oxford Circus

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20-11-2012
  512
Stitch:the Hand
 
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mike,you talking of nostalgia,this if anything it did for me,it inspired me to revisit my own memories and keepsakes. the silk scarf pieces are really what kind of drove that home since it was part of such an early period of the maison that i never got to experience but wish i had. it also kind of made me a little sad because it was just a reminder that we have no one who rebelled quite like him but had the intelligence and the substance like he did.

phuel,i dunno for me there was time when MMM's menswear was really quite lovely and covetable. it may not have been quite as ambitious as his women's(though during that period,who other than HL,yohji,comme,dries and raf were?) at the time but from its inception till around the time of joining diesel,there was some really good stuff. in fact that's where a lot of those fused tailored pieces transpired from.

to be honest,i don't think margiela himself gets enough credit for his skill and craft he conveyed. they see the conceptualist and that's it but the guy was masterful tailor,constructivist(as many are from antwerp).....and truth be told,no one cut a trouser as sharply as he did. even compared with dries who i adore implicitly. long story short,this guy could actually make clothes. going back to that substance thing,there was a wonderful balance between concept and realism with him.


Last edited by Scott; 20-11-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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20-11-2012
  513
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Join Date: May 2005
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@SCOTT

You're very correct when you state that Margiela was (and still is, he isn't dead...LOL) a masterful tailor. As is John Galliano. When Galliano was a fashion student....NOBODY could cut fabric on the bias like he could. If you do some research on Galliano...many quotes about the subject will be found.

Margiela (like Galliano)...was one of the few fashion designers who actually understood the body. As you look through some of Margiela's early works...the proof is in the pudding.

Margiela understood "ergonomics"....the structure of the body. Many of the techniques in design we see now have become common-place.

The "sock sweater" is an example of my point.

Many of the pieces that the sweater is comprised of...and the shape of the socks...were strategically placed within the construction.

The round heel section of the sock was placed at the shoulder-line, the bust....and at the elbows. These are 3 parts of the body where the body's natural form, curves. The construction of the sweater has been designed to follow the body.

Also...within the construction of the "cigarette-sleeve" jacket.....darts and seams have been strategically placed.

When the jacket is placed onto a clothing hanger, you can see the natural curve of the sleeve, at the elbows.

With trousers, he placed darts at the knees...the section of the body where the leg, bends. He also constructed the leg of the trouser with a seam that slightly twists inwards towards the calves and ankles. This technique (with the help of the fabrics natural tendency to drape, from weight) makes the hem of the trouser lay upon the top of the foot, naturally.

Many years ago...when the Levi's Jeans company wanted to launch a new innovative series called "Engineered Garments"....Margiela and a few other designers were selected to (secretly) to design the collection. If you look at the Engineered collection from Levis, you will see tons of the techniques that were used to reform Levi's standard sewing techniques.

Another collection where his genius can be found is within the collection where standard garments have been reconstructed by placing holes and openings
where there were none, before.

http://fashionista.com/2012/10/heres...eb-648-4864-2/.

Only a designer who understands the construction and the draping of fabric could imagine something as possible as that blue dress.

Trust me, within the fashion industry...there is no arguement that Margiela is a masterful craftsman.

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20-11-2012
  514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margielamike2004 View Post
@PHEUL

I think the subject you're reaching upon....in consideration of what you do to your clothes and your style is......customization.

I'm VERY much into that concept, myself.

Considering that I do sew...I perform my own alterations...but I also will either add something to a garment...or remove it.

Some people would look upon customizing a piece...especially a designer piece...as destroying the garment..or killing it's original integrity.

I have an old Helmut Lang green parka-jacket with a white (fake) fur trim around the hood. During it's time of release...it was quite a popular item.

I took the parka jacket....and painted on the backside (with Elmer's glue)...the words "Nothing Is Real, Everything Is Permitted." I then took black diamond-dust and sprinkled it onto the glue. When everything dried...it gave the quote lots of sparle and glimmer....LOL

Someone on the street recognized the Helmut Land parka and saw what I had done it to. They said, I destroyed it.

To others, they thought it was brilliant....and made the piece "unique" in my own personal way.

As the saying goes...everything is always open to interpretation.

White-glue and glitter... that IS destroying that coat! And I know exactly the coat you're referring to. LOL

I think some people are surprised that one would "alter" or "customize" designer pieces because they take designers as the final authority in what to wear, how to wear it, so altering such a piece is going against someone who "knows" better than themselves. (Not to mention the suggestion of messing with something quite expensive.) So these H&M collaborations are really ideal for such customizations, especially if one buys them at a discount. I wonder if Diesel approached H&M with this collaboration rather than the other way around?

Thanks for the history on the white-painted pieces Mike. When I was in high school, I painted my jeans the way Helmut had. It's definitely not a simple process, I messed up a few good pairs of classic 501s before getting it right; it wasn't easy to get the consistency of the paint just right so that the denim remained flexible enough to be comfortable for wear, but still retained that much desired sheen on the fabric. DIY definitely takes time.

As for MMM men's-- maybe "forgettable" isn't the right word... It's just not my style. I'm not a fan of the 70s backstreet Parisian pimp look that I can pull together from the Salvation Army. I'm rather conservative in style, and prefer flattering cuts, immaculate construction and quality over extreme designs. Casual to me means classic selvedge denim and a plain tee.

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20-11-2012
  515
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@PHEUL

Although my following post has nothing to do with H&M and Margiela...I want to add something about Helmut Lang.

Roughly 10 or more years ago...when the dirty-jeans craze was appearing in fashion...Helmut Lang was one of it's pioneers.

Aside from some of the garments that had been coated....he also had a series of jeans called "blow-torch denim."

Helmut Lang used a burning process on the surface of his jeans. He used a blow-torch, on the denim.

As you look at the jeans...they appear to be dirty, but in actuality...the jeans have been burned on the surface.

Other jean companies with lesser quality techniques use "dyes" to make their jeans look dirty. Through washing and fading...the jeans loose their "dirty character" look b/c the dye bleeds. Sometimes, hazardous dyes within some fabrics will actually destroy the material. The hazardous chemicals in the dye react to water when washed.

By burning the jeans permanently...they ALWAYS look dirty.

The only reference I can conjure is is the process much like toasting marsh-mellows. LOL. By placing the marsh-mellow a bit too close to the fire...it turns a golden brown...but....if you place the marsh-mellow too close....for too long?? Not good.

By using a blowtorch on the denim...it gives the fabric a golden-brown appearance...which could also be mistakenly looked upon as "dirty."

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20-11-2012
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@PHUEL....

Another tenchnique that Helmut Lang used that I will briefly mention....as far a his jeans.

He had a series of jeans that looked like they had been drip slashed with paint...much like a Jackson Pollock painting.

Instead of using paint to splash upon his jeans...Helmut Lang used melted rubber.

Paint has a tendency to fade and wash away from the fabric through time, and wear.

By using melted rubber.....the rubber is literally and permanently bonded to the fabric. The rubber doesn't wash away and fade through time, like actualy paint will.

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20-11-2012
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Oxford Circus has loads of stock left, at least clothes wise. There are some shoes left too. I even managed to try on the leggings in a 10 and am glad I got them in 8 online, they should fit perfectly but I'm still waiting for the delivery.

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20-11-2012
  518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miu miu View Post
Oxford Circus has loads of stock left, at least clothes wise. There are some shoes left too. I even managed to try on the leggings in a 10 and am glad I got them in 8 online, they should fit perfectly but I'm still waiting for the delivery.
arent you afraid the mirrored bits are going to fall off?

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20-11-2012
  519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucy92 View Post
arent you afraid the mirrored bits are going to fall off?
I am. There were already a few falling off where the hanger clips were but I guess that's understandable. I'm not gonna hang mine :p

Overall, they're pretty well made. I spent a few minutes in the fitting room thinking if I want them or not. I've decided to try on the size 8 that should come tomorrow and then decide.

I've bought too much stuff anyway, won't be disappointed if I decide to actually send them back at the end.

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20-11-2012
  520
flaunt the imperfection
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honeycombchild View Post
I only just realized the shearling jacket isn't actually shearling, it's fake!



How can it be suede and yet be 70% polyester?
simple...
it is ULTRAsuede...which is made from polyester fibres...

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20-11-2012
  521
flaunt the imperfection
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brigadeiro View Post
My sister ordered some pieces online for me, but it will be some time before they arrive. She ordered:

*Nude pumps with plexi wedge heel (now am worried they aren't comfortable, after reading this thread)
*The black ankle boots with plexi wedge (as above)
*Watch belt - (did anyone see this? any thoughts on it)?
*Beige leather tote (as above - any thoughts on it)?

Still on my wishlist:
*Narrow shouldered jacket (top of my list)
*Oversized cashmere turtleneck sweaters (trying to figure out how the sleeves work, they look 'pinned' at times, and at times it looks like it'd hang past the wrist)?

Would to hear any thoughts on any of the items above
the swtr is just really big and oversized...
like a really big man's sweater...
the sleeves are really really long and wide...
you'd have to push them up to wear them and imo, they won't stay up and it would be very very annoying to wear due to this...
that is why i skipped it...

i don't like the toe on the shoes...
it is pointier than any real mmm shoes and i don't really like the shape...
but that's just me...

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21-11-2012
  522
Hell on Heels
 
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I couldn't go to the opening cause of work meetings i couldn't postpone, so i just kinda forced myself to forget about it (also cause one of the 2 hm stores that carried it sold out the first day). BUT today i found myself nearby the other one so i decided to go take a look and.... i found the one thing i *really wanted* in my size. I understand why it didn't sell out i think it's a bit hard to carry but it really fits me like a glove. I'ts a bit too long but still, I'm so happy . I'm also rather satisfied by the quality and the cut, it could've been a disaster.

(It's the horizontal dress by the way, in black)

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Last edited by mistress_f; 21-11-2012 at 09:25 AM.
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21-11-2012
  523
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margielamike2004: Thanks for the detailed history of those dirty jeans Mike; I never knew their treatment was so innovative-- and hands-on. I still wear mine, including the infamous painter jeans-- which were treated to further customization. The quality of the denim is really premium for the time, and even now. His jeanswear came out at a time when finding classic jeans-- particularly selvedge denim, was very hard to find. I still get comments from people when I wear the painter jeans-- including not-so-nice ones from some panhandlers on the street when I walk by.

And I completely adore early-Galliano: No one, and I mean no one came close to the blood and sweat he poured into his work at the early part of his career. The intricate cuts, the construction were all lost-in-time couture-level mixed with the most innovative fabrics. And he scrapped the funds to put a show together. The tacky Vegas freakshow he became towards the end-- personally and design-wise seems to be everything he was against when he was a struggling, hungry genius.

Anyway, these H&M pieces sound really poorly-made. I have a feeling that despite their solid appearance, they just won't hold together for long. I find myself wanting the hangers and coatbags though...

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21-11-2012
  524
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They'll hold together fine and the quality is perfectly acceptable - it just could have been better.

They've shown they can produce really great quality items in these collections, Lanvin was a prime example of that. The sheepskin coat might have come in more expensive had it been real sheepskin, but I imagine it probably would have sold more based on that fact.

I want the table cloth, it's pretty cool, but I'm going to wait for the re-pricing to begin. 70 on a table cloth is just a bit too much currently!

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21-11-2012
  525
Stitch:the Hand
 
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as i said before,a collection this intricately composed,i didn't feel like it would hold up in this capacity. there's just too much workmanship for this to translate in this manner.

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