Marc Jacobs F/W 09.10 New York

[Mutterlein]

It's like a forward to what I think is going to happen for the next 5 or so years in NYC, a revival of the pioneering electricity that made the City so legendary as it was in the 80s. It's as if Marc is simply saying "this is the fun we had, and this he we did, have a clue all". Not a subtle suggestion and not all lacking in any literal interpretations.

It's great that Marc indulges in his inclinations for the outre and fantastic, it's what's made for some of the most potent and beautiful collections of his recent career. But I went to take a look at the spring collection, to get an idea of what all the fuss on the runway amounted to on the floor. If these clothes carry any of the same sensibility as the current collection in stores now then I suspect Marc Jacobs and the watchful money loving eye at LVMH will have to rely on bag sales and Marc by Marc to get them through this recession. Yet possibly, for that one peculiar women who actually gets this, this collection is more than enough to get her out of the dark times and back to the edge.

[thedanae]

Read the NYFW show review here:
http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway...nter-2009-1536

[deschanel]

Originally Posted by LagerfeldBoy

sure the 80's thing comes off tacky but if you look at the whole collection from another point of view, you can see that there's soo many stunning seperates that i wouldn't mind having in my warddrobe.

I wholeheartedly agree! While the collection (65 models, someone said!) was a bit overwhelming at first glance, there are quite a few amazing pieces. I personally loved the one-girl-one-look policy, and cannot thank you guys enough for the pictures! There's a few gems in here, even if the naysayers can't see them yet through all the chaos. I the shoes the most.

[helmut.newton]

For those who requested it; I made a general sort of time line to illustrate my previous point of some kind of violent change in Marc Jacobs' aesthetic.

Notice his aesthetic at the 'start'. He's maintained that nonchalance until approximately Fall 2007. Up until this point, you could imagine his woman wearing something from each collection and mixing it with past pieces from past collections.

From Fall 2007, this sensibility changes. He ditches the layering, the thrown-togetherness, the easy styling etc etc and introduces his 'new aesthetic'. It's sexier, more deliberate, still melancholic; but theres definitely something different. But maybe thats just my own interpretation!

What do you guys think?


source: style.com

[Spike413]

I dunno, while the presentation is radically different for Marc, the actual clothes and where they're coming from in this collection are honestly closer to what he became known for than either F/W 06 or S/S 07.

He made himself famous by reworking vintage pieces, sometimes abstractly but most of the time pretty literally. F/W 03 for instance was extremely literal in it's appropriation of 60s mod design, and imo was no more nonchalant or effortless than F/W 09. Six years down the road I still can't imagine how those pieces would be worn without looking costumey. S/S 03 was just as literal in it's take on late 50s/early 60s fashion, and those clothes were some of the most prissy, pulled-together clothes that Marc has ever done.

I don't think you can really hold this collection up against F/W 06 and S/S 07 because out of the examples you've provided, they're the two that stick out like sore thumbs. They were completely experimental for Marc and along with S/S 09 were the only collections where he managed to successfully blur his references enough that the end result seemed new. The rest of the collections you pointed out just seem so nonchalant because Marc intended for them to. I mean, give the models from F/W 06 dirty, smudgey eye makeup and ratted out hobo hair and it wouldn't look so effortless anymore, it would look like a New York version of Galliano's "homeless" collection. So even though all of those collections seem so effortless, they really weren't any more than this collection is.

I really don't think his aesthetic has changed. The way he packages it is what did.

[fashionista-ta]

IMO the aesthetic has changed ... the 'geek chic' bit seems to be gone, and it disappeared right about when Marc switched to a fitness addiction, as he himself refers to it. It would be interesting to hear perspectives from longtime fans like Sofia Coppola ...

[fashion.fashoff]

this collection isn't innovative at all. as somebody said above it looks like 80s redux. one of the coats looks almost identical to an 80s sprouse coat i have... i like a couple of the solid-color pieces from this show but there is nothing original here. (and some of the pieces/outfits are just dreadful and would have been perfect for joan collins in dynasty).

[haute femme]

I miss the geek chic... and the frumpier Marc.....it just appealed to me much more in the past for some reason.

helmut.newton, thank you so much for the collage!