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15-02-2011
  76
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Amazing. This collection was just amazing. As I was watching it yesterday I was so impressed by the collection Marc presented. Hugh improvment from last season

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16-02-2011
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Full Show

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16-02-2011
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I Love This Collection
It Was Like Orgasms In My Eyes

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16-02-2011
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i feel like the conversation about references is very hard ...
there are so many differents eras and stuff he picked up that i feel like it's a Mugler amish woman who met a grunge-punk-mod and went to the tailor saying I want all these to look like in the 40s ...
a 2011 woman fuelled with references ...

it's annoying that everyone thinks in terms of Fashion History as a cycle of ONLY 8 seasons back ... Not only Prada did that, and sincerely 5 seasons after .... I don't call that a copy-killer ...
anyway ...

i cannot think about this collection as a turnover in MJ's career (eventhough i've read a lot of that onto internet) ...
and as said bfore there's too many of inspirations for me to really enjoy this ... playing on a 40s silhouette with so many different things feels like dangerous.

but it's nice to watch, and in un-total-look i'm sure it's gonna be HIT ...

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17-02-2011
  80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramarine View Post
There are some clear Marc Jacobs references on the collection .. the hoodies and zippers and that particular shape on the shoulders for some coats .. its not boxy .. its like an old school fridge (I like it).

The problem with this collection is the one I keep having every season: Who is the Marc Jacobs woman? His collections are absolutely schizophrenic and I can not quite follow up to all the changes he does. There are some glimpses of Prada and Miumiu here and whatnot but those wellington boots/shoes are quintessential MJ.

marc jacobs has set himself up as the new york answer to the milan collection of miuccia prada. they dress the same demographic of women, they jump from inspiration point to inspiration point without looking back, they both pride themselves on taking cues from the art world, and they both have worldwide empires and legions of loyal fans. in that way, the marc jacobs customer knows that no matter what, a marc jacobs skirt, a marc jacobs dress, a marc jacobs shoe, a marc jacobs top will always stun and surprise, but will always go on with ease and flatter to a fault.

while i see all of the reference points here, from the perforation we just saw at cynthia rowley by way of prada, to the architecture of balenciaga, to the japanese influence (that some say he borrowed from in spring/summer 2008), to the polka dots we've seen all over fashion, one must get one thing clear: marc jacobs revels in the mash up. he loves getting under the skin of everyone who takes fashion so seriously that they hold the canons of particular designers as sacrosanct as if those self-same designers don't borrow and re-work the wares of others. scroll back to the prada fall/winter 2008 lace collection, you'll find people comparing it to *shock/awe* louis vuitton, boudicca, christian dior, giambattista valli, anne valerie hash, and helmut lang. and when you saw the lace pieces in the stella mccartney collection and the dolce and gabbana collection, people said they saw the prada collection in it. but let's face it: NONE OF THESE DESIGNERS INVENTED LACE. no one these designers originally thought up to cut a dress out of it!

the genius of this collection remains that it flies in the face of every sacred cow we have in fashion right now. it's not minimal. it's not seventies. there's no hint of austerity or studio 54 or the amish or the yves saint laurent retrospective. and for that reason alone, it's fresh. find one big city woman who can't use an attention grabbing pencil skirt, a perfect pair of fashion pants, or any other number of the genius staples he put forward here. the only thing slightly off key were those boots, but they remain so out of step with the rest of fashion i'm sure they'll become must have in their own right.



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Last edited by mikeijames; 17-02-2011 at 09:32 AM.
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17-02-2011
  81
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My problem with this one is the polka dots overload. Having watched both runway and style.com's videos, I really love the idea behind this collection. All the shapes, silhouettes and styling are wonderful, I just wish he picked something different to spice up these clothes.

Pretending the dots aren't there, it's all great. I love those egg-shaped coats on Tati and Iselin.

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17-02-2011
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What I find interesting in this collection is the sexual undertone.
The big round sequins have this metallic sheen that's reminiscent of a fish's scale, and fish is the pagan symbol for femininity and fertility. Especially the mauve pink dress, obviously, embodies this.
Despite the Prada and Marni references it's quite a good collection. Nice to see something different and fairly exciting in New York.

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17-02-2011
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17-02-2011
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17-02-2011
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17-02-2011
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