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28-09-2011
  31
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Squizree's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
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I'm a huge fan of cut-outs and asymmetry, I think there's plenty of room for creativity in that area. But this is just taking the piss out of it. You can't force creativity, you just can't.

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28-09-2011
  32
fashion icon
 
Mutterlein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Now, I would be the first to naysay this. I was actually looking forward to it. I was anticipating the train wreck. But this is rather good.

I feel like Peigne was finally allowed to shine without a a mismanaging creative director forcing gimmicks on him. This IS Mugler. Mugler's interestis in playing surgeon, re-sculpting the body; those ideas are present and are executed quite well. I see things here I've never seen before, ideas about fabric, color, shape, and construction that are genuinely new. It's sophisticated. Don't get me wrong, all the overt sexiness can get banal, but I'll take it all in stride as part of a show.

I think there's a lot of promise and for the first time since they tried to bring this house back I'm excited. My only complaint is that Peigne has no consideration for daywear. Mugler, as skilled as he was at making amazing show pieces, also made exquisite and fabulous practical clothes. I'm able to forgive the utter lack of wearability here because I am so intrigued. I'm looking forward to next season.

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28-09-2011
  33
less is more
 
rox_yr_sox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: australian in nepal
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There are some looks in here I quite like, which is to be expected from me as I love deconstruction and minimalist colour palettes. True, I would have loved to dump all over this collection as Nicola is such a repulsive character, but it's not terrible, just not exciting or revolutionary either. Compare this to Haider, Balenciaga or even a good Gareth Pugh collection; it's just not in the same league.

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28-09-2011
  34
fashion insider
 
XavierRaphael's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Toronto
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He needs to push harder. I think he'll really grow and improve. His first collection was much better. Theses shoes don't even compare to the last seasons. There are some amazing pieces I know will be used and promoted in magazines but as I said. He's still young and figuring out his niche. He'll grow! Cheers though, it was more of a safe than an amazing collection. I expect amazing from Ghesquiere not Nicola, not yet!

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28-09-2011
  35
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I get what he's trying to do, but the difference between this, Garteh Pugh, etc. and REAL designers like the original Mugler, Chalayan and NG (Balenciaga) is that they know how to 1 or 2 things really well on an outfit, and know when to STOP overdoing it and NOT to repeat a one-note collection to death. You really need to have an "eye" and a sense for proportion, balance, etc., not like a drama and circus. This is ssooo..."decorative" and amateur....

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28-09-2011
  36
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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I would like to thank a lot of you. There was something extremely off and I just now realized it was the cut. From what I hear, Sebastien Peigne is the actual designer. But as long as Formichetti's giving his input, it's Formichetti's fault. Thierry Mugler was a genius, innovative, avant garde, sometimes gaudy in that chic way (the motorcycle corset). This is just grotesque and it makes your eyes hurt. Sebastien Peigne seems like he has talent, but it's Nicola that's holding him back. The only reason that Mugler has him is that: Company that people are losing interest in (similar to Coco Chanel during her 10 year break, they kept making the parfum but there was nothing bringing notability), and they need a big break. Their big break is Nicola, the biggest fame whore out there, who's got strong connections to gaga. That's why they have him.

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28-09-2011
  37
V.I.P.
 
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I'm surprised by the reaction this collection is getting here. I personally think it's quite chic. What I especially enjoy is that despite all the cutouts and different shapes, it doesn't feel heavy or overworked. To the contrary, it looks light and airy. I don't especially care for the color pallete, but I get why it is what it is because if you introduce bright colors, it would make the whole thing messy and perhaps overbearing. So no complains there.

I also don't understand how it's a problem to 'be cutting for the sake of cutting'. I mean, isn't that what high fashion is? I doubt Balenciaga's collections are all about practicality and usefulness. Same with Gareth Pugh. And tons others. So why is it suddenly a bad thing here?

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29-09-2011
  38
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lepetitcouturier View Post
I would like to thank a lot of you. There was something extremely off and I just now realized it was the cut. From what I hear, Sebastien Peigne is the actual designer. But as long as Formichetti's giving his input, it's Formichetti's fault. Thierry Mugler was a genius, innovative, avant garde, sometimes gaudy in that chic way (the motorcycle corset). This is just grotesque and it makes your eyes hurt. Sebastien Peigne seems like he has talent, but it's Nicola that's holding him back. The only reason that Mugler has him is that: Company that people are losing interest in (similar to Coco Chanel during her 10 year break, they kept making the parfum but there was nothing bringing notability), and they need a big break. Their big break is Nicola, the biggest fame whore out there, who's got strong connections to gaga. That's why they have him.
How is it Formichetti's fault when Peigne is the designer? As far as I know Formichetti is mainly in charge of the overall styling and feel of the brand and based on all the complaints people have, then the problem is with the actual design, which means the main fault should be given to Peigne.

It's already obvious by this collection that they stripped down the styling gimmicks that Formichetti is well known for so the actual design can speak for itself.

Your criticism of this collection as being "grotesque" and "makes your eyes hurt" seem extremely exaggerated and ill mannered considering this is much more tame than most of Paris.

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29-09-2011
  39
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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sounds to me like most people just want to hate on this collection


i was expecting worse but was pleasantly surprised, some looks here seem rather fresh!

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29-09-2011
  40
fashion insider
 
maxlinden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
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This collection blended beautifully with the rest of the cheezy, tacky, overrated, and insubstantial collections of the season. I dont know if I would say it was better than last season, it was just as horrible. It was like watching a fashion show of performers costumes. Theres a look going on here its just not ready to wear,not by the average women that is.

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29-09-2011
  41
V.I.P.
 
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this is surprisingly good, i'm shocked! way better than last season.

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29-09-2011
  42
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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great great great !!!!! jackets are so cool; i love minimalist colors mixed with very sophisticated outlines

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29-09-2011
  43
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Join Date: May 2009
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Very sexy and modern collection

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29-09-2011
  44
front row
 
iclawhands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
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i quite like the clothes in this...it's easy to be distracted by the fact that formichetti is a bit of a twat...but beyond that there's some good stuff.

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29-09-2011
  45
fashion elite
 
purplethistle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: under the sun
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Posts: 2,863
I'm actually digging this. Sure not the best colours and few looks that bulge in the wrong places. But I love the random cuts in the jacket and coats look like someone turned the material scraps on the floor that should have been thrown away into a statement piece.

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