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01-09-2011
  16
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softgrey's Avatar
 
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wow..
thanks for the update tric...

what a crying shame!!!...
you can really see the beginning of something here that is almost already fully formed...

he really needs an opportunity to do this sort of thing somewhere...
and the proper support/PR to make it work...
i wonder if theory wouldn't be a bad place for takizawa actually?
i could see him updating the menswear at theory quite successfully...
it's just a question of would he be able to design for that price point and would he be happy doing so...


**and yeah---we need a whole separate thread for ranting about how the current helmut lang brand has nothing to do with old school helmut...


...

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02-09-2011
  17
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wait
naoki takizawa did S/S 11 at least.
but I cannot seem to find out if he did F/W 11 and then S/S 12, if he is still there.

I remember in the paper last year naoki was talking about this project and being a fan of helmut lang himself.
yohji too mentioned he was a fan of the t-shirts cut by helmut lang and wore them a lot.
helmut lang was one of those designers loved and worn by designers.



from HL S/S 11 by naoki, for reference
naokitakizawa.com
Attached Images
File Type: jpg he-m_l.jpg (42.7 KB, 2 views)

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02-09-2011
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the latest news on the mens line is a shoe designer toshinosuke takegahara did three styles for it.
the man is famous around here.
the footwear is available from this fall. I assume it must be well-made.


I like the shoes
simple and sturdy

image from houyhnhnm
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fanes07121.jpg (59.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg fanes07121-3.jpg (72.5 KB, 1 views)

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02-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runner View Post
wait
naoki takizawa did S/S 11 at least.
but I cannot seem to find out if he did F/W 11 and then S/S 12, if he is still there.

I remember in the paper last year naoki was talking about this project and being a fan of helmut lang himself.
yohji too mentioned he was a fan of the t-shirts cut by helmut lang and wore them a lot.
helmut lang was one of those designers loved and worn by designers.



from HL S/S 11 by naoki, for reference
naokitakizawa.com

Perhaps they're keeping it as a Japan-exclusive, at least from what I heard from European Theory/Helmut Lang sales associates, they had mentioned that they are no longer doing the men's line and thus it seems they were concentrating on the womenswear line... you don't even find any archival content or mentioning of any men's activity on the Helmut Lang website. Perhaps you can shed some light on this issue, Runner...?

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02-09-2011
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thank you runner!
that s/s 11 look is very nice...
and so are the shoes...i like them as well...

don't you all think it's kind of ridiculous that there hasn't been more press about this...?
it's kind of major...at least it is in my book...
naoki is a major talent---imo

...

it's not all that surprising to hear that both he and yohji would wear some helmut lang...
i remember in the 90's- everyone in the fashion industry---all the cool people---they all had some sort of pieces from helmut that they wore all the time...

margiela too...some jil sander---
isn't it crazy---all those designers are gone?...
and it's all the same customer base...
what the heck are cool guys supposed to wear these days?!......
...



well-i guess there's still dries...:p

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Last edited by softgrey; 02-09-2011 at 02:28 PM.
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03-09-2011
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you are welcome softgrey
checked it a bit.
they confirmed the F/W 11 collection now in the stores is by naoki takizawa.
as for the points of sale in japan, it's not bad at all. rather small scale yes but actually it's better than the prada years. it looks like a sound business. at least it doesn't look as if they were just temporarily playing some kind of dead or alive business.
which you can see from what they did with the new mens footwear line. they are trying to do something stable although it's not very fashion-forward. it's different from the womens line. the directional difference is a bit too interesting for the same label.

he had his column in the asahi earlier this year and was generally talking about the relationship between designers and managers.
he said " the management side sometimes sets designers at the starting point, without showing a goal.
and designers start to go, without any map of the destination, any weather forecast and without preparing enough. the company arrives at some desert and nobody exists ".
I didn't think he was referring to himself and link-theory in particular.
but now he might have implied the lack of the union he saw at the company.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat View Post
Perhaps they're keeping it as a Japan-exclusive, at least from what I heard from European Theory/Helmut Lang sales associates, they had mentioned that they are no longer doing the men's line and thus it seems they were concentrating on the womenswear line... you don't even find any archival content or mentioning of any men's activity on the Helmut Lang website. Perhaps you can shed some light on this issue, Runner...?
this sounds incredibly ridiculous, but it may simply be that the website is for the colovos' HL at the moment.
it's their territory.
in fact, for any little info on the mens line we have to visit link-theory.com or naokitakizawa.com.
I *guess it might have been somewhat awkward or messy within the company.
the reason for naoki's taking over was he had been friends with the president, ceo of link theory japan for about 30 years. ( apart from his being talented )
and the man passed away on august 9.
I wonder if we have been seeing things affected.

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03-09-2011
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wow---you really got a lot of good info runner!
...you're awesome...!

demo-
i don't understand- is he still there and doing spring 2012?...

i can't find a trace of helmut lang menswear on any US sites...
i don't think it's being sold here...?~!
is tric correct?...is it just being distributed in japan?...

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04-09-2011
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It seems likely to me, since Theory's men's collection is also only being marketed from their US showroom and they do not bother offering it to European accounts, knowing that the collection wouldn't be ale to fill the same, competitive niche there than it would on their domestic market.

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04-09-2011
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...Also, think about all these labels under the Comme and Y's umbrella that started out as Japan-exclusives: Limi Feu, Ganryu as well as Yohji's latest sY'te label are all such examples...

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05-09-2011
  25
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softgrey I don't know, will check a bit more later.
but maybe the S/S 12 for men is yet to be ready, whoever is designing it. I think they are showing it during the womenswear showroom season, this autumn.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat View Post
...Also, think about all these labels under the Comme and Y's umbrella that started out as Japan-exclusives: Limi Feu, Ganryu as well as Yohji's latest sY'te label are all such examples...
yes but even if it becomes japan exclusive now, this case is more of a business such as burberry blue label, black label/contemporary collections from sanyo, rochas (mens line) from renown, lanvin en blue from itochu, etc.
limi, ganryu, the online t-shirts project are at first just an observation baloon.
even japanese didn't know the name of limi back then. and she needed more experience, just like junya and tao at the time they were doing tricot before going worldwide.
but this helmut lang thing is a bit more serious and major. and as you say the first season at least was worldwide.

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Last edited by runner; 05-09-2011 at 03:23 AM.
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