How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
13-04-2010
  1
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
Naoki Takizawa for Helmut Lang Mens F/W 10.11
they put naoki takizawa in charge of the mens design of this line labeled helmut lang.
F/W 10.11 as the first collection by naoki.

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
 
13-04-2010
  2
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
....

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  3
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
.....

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  4
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
......

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  5
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
.......

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  6
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
....

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  7
El Viaje Definitivo
 
runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,369
pics from fashionsnap


.

__________________

Let the stars decide
  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  8
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,961
not quite as sharp as helmut's work was but it certainly has a bit more of an air of 'lang' than what those other two are doing with the women's. definitely a few distinct homages such as the longer tailored coats,the utilitarian elements and the monochrome palette.

  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  9
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,934
I find it a promising start and a very appropriate decision to let someone else design the menswear, with the Colovos' it's really been a neglected side story that was clearly lacking direction and solidity (I wouldn't mind if Takizawa was to take over the women's as well...) - This however looks good, seems to have believable quality and tailoring expertise. My main complaint is that this could have, without a few touches, also been a Jil Sander collection... it misses a bit of a fashion edge that clearly defined the brand, I see some of that in the sweater with military detailing, the perfectos and some of the waistcoats.

  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  10
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,961
you can tell that this is a bit timid because he is trying employ the classic elements and it's understandable because helmut for many,including naoki,most likely,was a hero for so many. it is a new endeavour and i really can't wait to see what naoki does down the line because to me at the very least it is a promising beginning and perhaps once he truly wraps his head round this position we will see a fuller embrace of the original aesthetics and signatures.

i agree with you though..he can take over the women's too,because it has to be better than what's going on there now.

  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  11
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,934
The problem really is that I suppose the women's is doing solid business, it's quite an aggressively-commercial line and a younger target audience than the customer Takizawa is addressing with the men's that has established itself on the retail floor next to other 'hot ticket' designers that are on the list of many buyers at the moment - Rick Owens, Givenchy, Alexander Wang...

  Reply With Quote
13-04-2010
  12
vertebrae by vertebrae
 
Inaya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: bible belt
Gender: femme
Posts: 7,178
I pretty much agree totally with Scott's post (surprise surprise )

+thanks as always runner

__________________

  Reply With Quote
14-04-2010
  13
place your body here
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Canada
Gender: femme
Posts: 852
I'm not overwhelmed by it, but there are a few nice pieces

__________________
live to the point of tears - albert camus
  Reply With Quote
31-08-2011
  14
flaunt the imperfection
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,840
woah...
i missed this news...
...

to go from issey miyake to the new HL...
well...
i guess i am glad that he has employment...
and i do like this first effort for the brand...
i'm a little concerned about some of the funky pants...
but my guess is they won't make it onto the sales floor...
i can see echoes of his work at issey...but it's not that...
it's good...it's helmut lang---but it's still naoki takizawa...

i do think that a designs like these should hang next to margiela and dries...
it's real clothes for grown men...
rather than the trendy designers tric mentioned...
though i agree that this conflicts with their established market, especially with the womenswear...

scott- if takizawa could take over for issey...
i don't think that taking over for the colovos would be too intimidating...
i mean- we haven't seen helmut's fingerprints on the brand for many years now...
there is very little of the original dna left, imo...

it would be nice if takizawa could bring it back...

and i think that HL was always more of a menswear label when Helmut was designing...
even the womenswear was often quite masculine/androgynous...

i'd like to watch and see how this evolves...
my money is on takizawa...
this could be a very good fit...

i just wish they would adjust the womenswear to reflect this sort of attitude...
rather than overpriced skin tight dresses and jackets that just look like knock offs of rick owens...
...


i know not one person who used to wear old school helmut lang that currently buys anything from the brand...

what's the latest news on this?
how's it doing?
is he still there?

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior




Last edited by softgrey; 31-08-2011 at 02:00 PM.
  Reply With Quote
01-09-2011
  15
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,934
This is the only collection Takizawa designed for Helmut Lang as far as I understood - the men's division was entirely folded after this season and now there's only the Colovos' remaining with the Theory-owned Lang venture.

It's a pity because I really think Takizawa effortlessly continued that Helmut Lang spirit here, keeping it mature and non-fussy, which to me very much embodies the core values I would expect in a Helmut Lang design - What they are doing on the present womenswear has very little to do with that, but I won't even go there to discuss that in depth, how little of relevance is the so-called 'design'.

  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
1011, f or w, helmut, lang, mens, naoki, takizawa
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:19 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. 2014 All rights reserved.