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05-05-2005
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A New Date for London Fashion Week
A DATE FOR THE DIARYANNA WINTOUR will today meet with Stuart Rose to discuss moving London Fashion Week's position on the fashion week schedule. Speaking at The Sunday Times Style lecture at The British Museum, the esteemed editor-in-chief of US Vogue, who made a point of attending London Fashion Week in 2002 when it was moved to prevent New York Fashion Week from falling over the first anniversary of 9/11, explained that she was passionate about doing everything she can to help the British fashion industry. Wintour believes that moving the bi-annual shows so they happen between Milan and Paris Fashion Week each season would ensure the world's press and important buyers factor it into their travel plans, thereby bringing much needed publicity and money into the capital. "You have the most talented designers in the world," she said.

Source: British Vogue

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05-05-2005
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and what does anna have to do with this? is she the only one supporting the move? is there anyone else involved? i think its a great idea, but its funny how this whole thing is focused on *anna* being there and not about *moving* london fashion week...

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07-05-2005
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i dont quite understand either. what has she got to do with LONDON fashion week...??

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07-05-2005
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who does actually have the authority to decide which order fashion weeks come in?
how is it decided?

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07-05-2005
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The think each capital has some sort of council (the British Fashion Council etc...) and they decide it.
Even though Wintour has defected to the other team, the british need all the help we can get. So many designers are trained and make their name in England but then leave. I think at last fashion week, the only remaining established designers showing their collections in London were Nicole Farhi and Paul Smith.

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Last edited by Fashion Puss; 07-05-2005 at 06:42 AM.
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07-05-2005
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well...as the head of the most influential fashion publication in the world...
i'd say anna has tremendous influence over the entire fashion industry...

she is IT....

i think it's great if she wants to help struggling designers, especially from her native country...nice to see her doing something positive with all the power she wields...

thanks mdankwah...moving this into d&c....

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08-05-2005
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But why call on just her? Is it perhaps because she's made it the most apparent about missing London as reflection of the scheduling? I mean I would expect they would discuss this move with some of the other important journalists and fashion personalities in the industry such as the much revered Suzy Menkes...being the most important European fashion journalist.

I don't know if I buy it that she's passionate...I think she just see's a real surgence in British fashion...and wants the industry to revolve around her. Funny how everybody else can seem to attend with their incredibly busy schedules,yet she never really seemed that interested. In fact,didn't she say one time that there was nothing really good coming from London and that she didn't see the bother?

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08-05-2005
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well...scott...i believe it is being discussed because it is anna's idea...
so that's why they are discussing it with her...

she initially requested that it be moved so that the ny shows could also be moved to avoid 9/11...and in appreciation of the london shows agreeing to do that...she has gotten more involved in supporting them...

just sounds like good politics...
i always find it interesting to see how the game is played...
i'm still trying to learn how to win ...

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08-05-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid
who does actually have the authority to decide which order fashion weeks come in?
how is it decided?
each country has to decide for its own, then they collaborate with the Camera in Milano and the Syndicat in Paris in order to co-ordinate days etc..

personally i think this is a real bad idea from mrs Wintour, she simply cannot squeeze London between Milano and Paris without throwing back Milano and i'm sure the Italian industry will not accept any changes, they simply need to be just behind Paris...
London should stay where it is, Anna may think its the schedule that doesnt attract buyers & Press to London, but this is not the real reason.. London has a problem with 'established names' since no-one really hot is showing there anymore..

they should bribe McQueen, Boudicca & Kokosalaki to show in London, (Sophia said she's not going back..) this Fashion Week needs some strong names to attract global industry interest .. Giles, Preen, Smith is simply not enough

thanks for the article mdankwah and for the move softie

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08-05-2005
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Check out this excerpt from the April 17 Sunday Times article by Colin McDowell. McDowell says the interview took place in Paris this past RTW season. Lena, you are so right about the bribing suggestion!

Quote:
"I love British fashion," she says in her slightly metallic voice, still English, but tinged with an American accent. "And I find it ridiculous that it gets so little support from the government. It could bring so much glamour and style, as well as money, to London. Sienna Miller and Kate Moss do so much for the city. So much can come out of it -and does -but you don't seem to handle it the right way." I am taken aback by how passionate she is. "If I were Stuart Rose," she continues, referring to the chairman of the British Fashion Council, "I would go down on bended knee to Rose Marie Bravo (the CEO of Burberry, which currently shows in Milan) to get Burberry back to London. After all, it is a British firm and its designer, Christopher Bailey, is British. That would help to bring back the right buyers and press." There is a clue here as to how Wintour makes things happen. So is London Fashion Week doomed? "London is never going to die," she replies sharply. "Britain is too full of creative young designers for that. I think what spoils it is lack of organisation.

If only the British Fashion Council could squeeze it in, as it used to, between the Milan and Paris shows. If we could go to London for just two days -which, actually, I normally do -it would be a huge boost, not only for British fashion, but for all of us. After all, look what comes out of London fashion. London designers are always taken seriously for the big jobs. I'm thinking of people like Roland Mouret who, in my opinion, should have been more deeply considered than he was for the Givenchy job."
Besides the new article mdankwah posted, I haven't found anything recently that's more in-depth. I don't think she's really suggesting moving Milan forward or Paris back.

To compare, Madrid happens during London and it's getting more and more press each time precisely because it's really well run and supported, in addition to being fresh and creative.

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08-05-2005
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well, problem is that Burberry may by now be produced in Italy.. same goes for Pringle, for Stella (Gucci Group) and so many more. They dont 'belong' to London, just because they started up there. Those companies want to sell and how could they sell in London the way things are? I remember two seasons ago, i was shocked to read that even top models prefer to take a week off between NY and Milano, instead of participating in London Fashion Week.
London has a big problem with missmanagent/organisation of their fashion week, it seems more like a huge tradefair than a real fashion week.. if they want the type of buyers that flock Paris and Milan back they need to work harder and stay more focused on talent. As a fact, those designers that leave London never come back..

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08-05-2005
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That's a good point,Lena.

Mark Eley(Eley Kishimoto)said a while back that he felt London never has had a good support structure. And that may also be a reflection on how everything is organised.

It's really ironic though,that they don't know how to take care of their talents especially since London has always been "the" city of irreverence and unabashed creativity.

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08-05-2005
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funnny thing this i read about that too, and where I read it says she havent attend a Londpn Fashion Week in ages...

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09-05-2005
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The plot thickens. Seems Milan is being unfairly singled out for being too long.

Quote:
Monday, May 09, 2005
Milan Calendar Clash Intensifies
By Luisa Zargani with contributions by Sara James

MILAN — The prickly issue of the length of the Milan fashion show calendar has arisen once again after an Italian daily newspaper published private correspondence between S.I. Newhouse Jr., chairman of Condé Nast; Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast International, and Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, last week.

In one of the letters, Jonathan Newhouse asked Boselli to “have important designer shows concentrated in a four-day period,” describing fashion week as “untenable — much too costly and too long.”

Boselli, meanwhile, said he was “very angry and disappointed” the letters were leaked to the press and divulged without his consent. He also regretted that S.I. Newhouse Jr. declined to meet him to talk about the calendar, as stated in a letter dated April 4.

S.I. Newhouse Jr. said in his letter that he “fully support[ed]” Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani, who met with Boselli last fall with the same requests to shorten the show calendar.

Wintour was in London last week to meet with Stuart Rose, chief executive officer of Marks & Spencer and head of the British Fashion Council, about moving London Fashion Week to fall between Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, a Vogue spokesman said, adding, “She’s obviously very disappointed and equally bewildered about why the Italians insist on turning a deaf ear to a very real problem for a lot of people.” (Condé Nast, like WWD, is owned by Advance Publications Inc.)

Colin McDowell of The Sunday Times Style, who arranged for Wintour to speak about British fashion at The British Museum while she was in town, said, “Sadly, there are far too many shows in the entire fashion schedule and we see far too many shows we don’t need to see. In Milan, the very rich and powerful can force us to go.” He added, “I’m surprised no one is complaining about Paris, which is even more crowded, although the difference, I believe, is that every show there is exciting.”

“I still hope we can meet; a battle is not good for anyone,” Boselli said on Thursday. “This is a difficult moment [in fashion] and we must all join forces.”

On Friday, Jonathan Newhouse gave this statement: “I am disappointed and a bit shocked that the Milan prêt-á-porter brushed aside the request without the slightest effort to consider the needs of editors. The purpose of Milan is to serve industry, but Milan has not responded to this serious request from the publishing industry.”

While many Italian designers endorse the idea of a shorter fashion week and are willing to work to improve the calendar, the question is whether big names would agree to show on the same day, sharing the same models, hairstylists and makeup artists. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, in a video appearance at a convention on fashion here earlier this week, declared their support in having the “big” designers spread over four days and to better concentrate the schedule.

“We can certainly try to improve the calendar and work on scheduling the more international designers over fewer days, but those designers are precisely the ones who don’t want to show on the same day [as their competitors],” said Vittorio Missoni, marketing director and sales manager at Missoni and vice president of the Chamber of Fashion. Moreover, Missoni feared many designers would simply position themselves outside the official calendar to squeeze in with the “big” names — something that has happened in the past.

Other suggestions from the design houses contacted by WWD included that companies should quit staging double shows and ones for secondary lines. Last season, Prada, Miu Miu, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Versace, Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana and Ferré each held two shows.

Said Santo Versace, chairman at Versace: “If we each staged one show for the main brand [instead of one for the press and one for the buyers], that would help the calendar.”

Many designers resented the interference from the American press, stating the same length issues exist in New York and Paris. Over the 1994-2004 period, the average length of show days in Paris, Milan and New York was 8.8, 8.5 and 7.8, respectively, according to research issued by Bocconi University.

The spring 2006 shows in Milan are scheduled from Sept. 24-Oct. 2.

“The current schedule allows room for young designers to show in a global contest,” said Gianfranco Ferré. “Any changes shouldn’t be dictated by external pressure.”

“The calendar must certainly be reconsidered, but in these terms, it appears to be unilateral,” said Franco Pené, chairman of Gibò, the Italian manufacturer that produces collections for Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan and Paul Smith, among others, in addition to its own Gibò line. “The heads of the Paris, Milan and New York fashion associations should all sit together and try to figure it out,” he said. Pené also noted that “you cannot force someone not to show,” but that he felt “more precise rules and guidelines” are necessary as Milan is “increasingly industrial and less and less creative.”

A Giorgio Armani spokesman concurred: “Why should there be discrepancies between the three cities? The governing bodies of the fashion associations should sit down and work on a common strategy.”

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