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05-03-2009
  181
Fat Karl
 
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^^No offense taken, Pastry.

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05-03-2009
  182
In other words
 
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The shoes! Yikes!
The shoes are insane... especially the glittered ones.

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05-03-2009
  183
V.I.P.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MulletProof View Post
^^^Yeah, Theyskens was no Tisci.. he wasn't about goth via latex, his work evoked so much mysticism and like some of you said, poetry, it was very Belgian, not aimed at the Vogue Paris crew. I think that's what made him so remarkable, the fact that his collections had so much integrity, consistence and confidence.. this is everything but confident.. it's so fickle and desperate to appeal massively. Glitter, ridiculous shoes, vulgar shapes, that's Decarnin's job, along with Tom Ford and all of these characters, Olivier can do so much better and is capable of capturing women on a level that's less like a cartoon and more modern, dignified... and tasteful.

I don't think comparing this to Decarnin is fair. Decarnin is about trashiness, compare to Lindsay Lohan.

I agree though that the first half of the show was a poor attempt to cash in money. There's a recession going on so we'll forgive him that. But the second half was just gorgeous. It was a darker version the romance we're used to seeing him do.

For the shoes, I think they were just gorgeous. His attention to detail is amazing. The glitter that continued up to the bottom of the pant. Gorgeous.

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05-03-2009
  184
backstage pass
 
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oh no,terrible。

Balmain shoulders + Dior couture shoes + .....

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05-03-2009
  185
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well count my a** in the loving this group. the only negative thing with me is that i miss how it's usually romantic where as this collection came off as a complete surprise from him but i really like it. ugh but PUHLEASE those round shouldered jackets paired with the dresses at the end are gross. those last 6 looks are horrible. eww much!

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05-03-2009
  186
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Actually because of the futurism involved here people think its 80s , but on closer inspection lots of the blazers and pants are very 40s , schiaperrelli shoulders rather than footballer 80s ones , the dagger lapels and chiffon wide life pants ,the shoes are kind of F*** up but it really goes well with the pants making the models look like 10 foot aliens lol . The shoes look like aliens too , if youve seen the movie with sigourney weaver you will know what im talking about.

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05-03-2009
  187
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this is everything that this season wants to be!

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05-03-2009
  188
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I love the outfit with the tights and the really sheer "dress" around it.

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05-03-2009
  189
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I'm really interested to watch the video and see how's the model walk...At frist I thought there'll be heels......But!!!!!!~OMG.....Is it able to walk with that...as a nomal woman ??
I love it's insane...If anyone can dance with those shoes, Applause, sil vous plait!!

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05-03-2009
  190
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I just saw the whole collection again and I think I love it, it's unexpected but beautiful...nobody can say that the first part of the show is unwearable.

Quote:

from fashionista

The red jacket and long skirt caused the audience to spontaneously combust in applause mid-collection (something I've never seen, Natalie once at ThreeAsfour) though front-row grins lingered for the duration of the show.

Standing Ovation for Olivier

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05-03-2009
  191
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After getting a feel for the whole thing I must say Theyskens really turned it out. All of the oddness from past collections finally gelled together into something chic and desirable. There are the mugler and montana references for sure, it's a bizzare collection, but it feels so right. What does this mean for retail? Not certain but I would have to see the sellable showroom pieces to gauge how potent this collection really is. Good job Olivier.

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05-03-2009
  192
fashion insider
 
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Quote:

Insane claw-like stilts as footwear at Nina Ricci. A couple of wobbles but no tumbles.
the moment via twitter

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05-03-2009
  193
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I really like this collection. It's quite different from anything that he has done recently. This really reminds me of the work that he did at his own line before Rochas. A few of the looks seem like they need to be edited and refined just a bit as I think it lacks professionalism. I really like how dark this collection is.

The shoes are definitely going to be in every editorial come winter. This is quite refreshing after a bunch of disappointments this season.

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05-03-2009
  194
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Why is it that this season has been a major letdown? This should be the time where all designers should explode their vission to the maximum, but instead of that their just returning to the 80's nostalgia bandwagon! And just when I thought Ghesquière and Theyskens would save the day with their outstanding vission and beautiful collections, this is what they presented... drag-queen shoes that could get you a trip to the hospital and polka dots stockings with horrible floral prints/shoulder pads... seriously?!

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05-03-2009
  195
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style.com review

Quote:

PARIS, March 5, 2009

By Sarah Mower

The show might have been his swan song at Nina Ricci but Olivier Theyskens saw it through with a fierce, surreal poetry no one who witnessed it will forget. Vastly tall, his strong-shouldered women were walking, trancelike, on what looked like an impossibility: a laced-up platform ankle boots with a sickle-shaped hole at the back. No heels at all. Their clothes—everything from strangely flowing pants to incredibly cut suits to probably the best black leather jacket in Paris and evening dresses with swooping, furling skirts—were a tour de force. Between the strange atmosphere, the supersharp, almost Mugler-esque jackets, and the sculpted forms, it rounded up everything fashion-watchers have known Theyskens is capable of, and went even further.

"I was thinking of a nocturnal mood," he said backstage, trying to explain how he'd orchestrated it. "Not nightclubbing at all. Something moonlit—a bit magical." Oddly enough, it wasn't melancholy and never lapsed into the costumey gothic mindset Theyskens once inhabited. Instead, the collection was a proud—if not exactly defiant—series of reminders of the chic, precise way he used to cut a jacket when he was running his own line, a flashback to the corseted lingerie he perfected at Rochas, and an underscoring of the genius he has applied to making grand event dresses during his tenure at Ricci. Backstage Theyskens was gracious and smiling as he received sincere congratulations for an outing that showcased all his talents, offered many things for many women to wear for many occasions, and was thereby the most mature and saleable collection he's designed to date. Quite why he saved his best till last is a mystery, but Ricci's management may just be kicking itself for letting him go.

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