The NY Times : My Invitation Isn't in the Mail by Cathy Horyn - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
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16-03-2008
  31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alejandro View Post
uh...doesn't that already happen?
Probably, but it turns fashion into a lie (or...more of a lie than it already is )

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16-03-2008
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^yup. playing kissy face to elitists is such a sad reality of the fashion world.

kindly cuddly,she has a right because she just so happens to work for the biggest publication in the world in the NY Times. she is not only one of their most senior writers but she is also one of the most respected this side of suzy menkes.

and you know,cathy is NOT a partial writer. cathy can lament over comme des garcons' guerilla shop in berlin-which she has-,ruminate proficientally and romantically about many a belgian iconoclasts,and in turn contribute to a book on the life of bill blass,which she has also done. i respect that she can be critical of all sides of this world.


Last edited by Scott; 16-03-2008 at 03:03 PM.
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16-03-2008
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What designers actually need to do is to vist these blogs and websites to gauge the reaction of the general public. Perhpas Ms Horyn's review might be tame in some instances

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16-03-2008
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^ Seriously, if he thinks Cathy's harsh, he has no idea.

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16-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
kindly cuddly,she has a right because she just so happens to work for the biggest publication in the world in the NY Times. she is not only one of their most senior writers but she is also one of the most respected this side of suzy menkes.
That does not give her the right to space at a designer's event. Her influence may be important within the small realm of the fashion elite but her reviews are irrelevant to the everyday consumer...she writes on her taste, sometimes in a deliberately obtuse fashion and her relevance is decreasing everyday thanks to fashion blogs and websites like this one where everyone can hop on and "in" or "out" a collection within hours of it happening. Just my opinion...and I do read her writings so I'm not just speaking to speak.

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17-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KindlyCuddly View Post
within the small realm of the fashion elite but her reviews are irrelevant to the everyday consumer...
who attends a fashion show and is important to a larger circle than the fashion elite...

celebrities? alright, but that's marketing.

if you zone out the critics, it's a sign you change the concept of your defilee from a presentation to a simple marketing event - that's alright if you decide to do so, everyone as he or she pleases... but i think it makes his collections even less worth a discussion.
anyhow... armani is not about fashion, but about an "emporio" (haha) of branding anything you may sell at a higher price level.


so after reconsideration his move was honest, and nothing else. he does not need critics, because for armani (the company) it's not about creativity.

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17-03-2008
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^now that you say,i will agree with that. it isn't creative.

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17-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palais_de_tokyo View Post
who attends a fashion show and is important to a larger circle than the fashion elite...

celebrities? alright, but that's marketing.

if you zone out the critics, it's a sign you change the concept of your defilee from a presentation to a simple marketing event - that's alright if you decide to do so, everyone as he or she pleases... but i think it makes his collections even less worth a discussion.
anyhow... armani is not about fashion, but about an "emporio" (haha) of branding anything you may sell at a higher price level.


so after reconsideration his move was honest, and nothing else. he does not need critics, because for armani (the company) it's not about creativity.
Beyond the fashion media there are also the buyers and retail execs who really make it happen for the consumer.
I don't find Horyn's "criticism" (if you can find it burried underneath her long-winded obtuse prose) to be particularly necessary, and perhaps Armani doesn't. If she never finds his work imaginative, why should he keep inviting her? He isn't shutting her out of a job, she can easily see the clothing online mere hours after they debut, she doesn't have to be in attendance when he presents. Horyn's writings also tend to go beyond the clothes and "analyzes" the show and it's attendees something Armani may not be keen to. She made comments about his family that he wasn't pleased with. He also invites other writers to see the collection, so he isn't shutting out criticism all together. Perhaps Horyn should be a bit more open to criticism herself and not just cast Armani's statements as him "banning" her from something she never had inherent admission to.

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17-03-2008
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^But that's the thing, why should a critic have to merely report on what the clothes look like.

The beauty of fashion is that anybody, regardless of what intternational papers they might work for, can analyze and delve into the meaning behind a collection. Isn't that more interesting to read than just "a fabulous cut pair of herringbone trousers paired with leather jacket looked particularly chic"

That gets kind of boring and isn't actually a critique.

If Armani is so sensitive about people analysing his collections and reading beyond the pretty shoes and dresses, then he's in the wrong business altogether. You'd think a 30-something year long career would've taught him that.

Here's the article about the couture show
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/24/fa...24COUTURE.html

Here's the blog entry
http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008...ower/#more-174

Now, either the comments weren't published, or Armani is overreacting.....that's ultimately for us to decide.

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18-03-2008
  40
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Oh come on, Armani is just living in the 80's when nobody challenged his designs. Well guess what, it's 2008 and everyone else has moved on.

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