Olivier Lapidus joins Lanvin - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
11-07-2017
  31
fashion elite
 
dodencebt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,729
A true disaster. Michael Kors is literally the most overexposed brand on the market right now, even Coach and Longchamp bags are more attractive for buyers. Who the hell wants to follow that kind of a business model?!

__________________
"See, there is a difference between me and you. When you hear Celine you think of Dion. I think of the brand."
  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  32
trendsetter
 
Nomar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,274
"French Michael Kors"?????? Says it all really.

  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  33
backstage pass
 
perhydrol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Poland
Gender: homme
Posts: 728
Quote:
Theres a Story to Tell . . . Im Going to Do Jeanne by the BookOlivier Lapidus on His Lanvin Appointment

Fashion designer Olivier Lapidus, the son of designer Ted Lapidus, has been named the artistic director of Lanvin after last weeks departure of Bouchra Jarrar, who spent shortly over a year at the company after succeeding Alber Elbaz. Earlier this month, he also launched his own future couture collection via Instagram. He spoke to Vogue today about his vision for the storied French brand.

As it happens, Lapidus has known Lanvin owner Shaw-Lan Wang for 33 years, ever since he was the designer of Balmains menswear. Discussions for this position, however, have been ongoing only in the past few weeks.

When we began discussions, Lanvin was interested by my [Internet] approach. New technologies can be very pertinent for the oldest couture house in France, he said, adding, Clearly there is something innovative to tap there in terms of positioning and communications.

Concerning his namesake label, Lapidus said, My house will remain quite exclusivetheres no problem in doing small collections of eight pieces in parallel with my work at Lanvin. My little maison is high tech and experimental. He did allow, however, that there might be crossover potential between his namesake concept and the illustrious French fashion house.

As to his vision for Frances oldest continuously operating fashion house, Lapidus observed, My DNA is couture. I see the value in Jeanne Lanvin; I want to speak to the person she is and mine her DNA. I want to explore techniques and detail and give the brand meaning. We must get back to the fundamentals. Theres a story to tell at Lanvin. In all modesty, Id like to say that Im going to do Jeanne by the book. That his 82-year-old mother is also named Jeanne, he said, adds to the emotional aspect of the task ahead.

In other words, an August vacation is out the window. Lapidus concluded, Ill be spending my vacation at Lanvin!
from vogue.com

  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  34
fashion insider
 
maxlinden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New York
Gender: femme
Posts: 2,276

popkey

Devastated! I mean, could you get anymore desperate?

  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  35
fashion elite
 
dodencebt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,729
Here's a great think piece from Vanessa Friedman about what this 'French Michael Kors' could mean for Lanvin.

Quote:
One designer exits, another enters. This week, the beleaguered French fashion house Lanvin announced that Olivier Lapidus would be its artistic director, following the departure of Bouchra Jarrar last week after only 16 months.

Ms. Jarrar, of course, took the reins of the house after the controversial firing of Alber Elbaz, the beloved designer who had returned its brand to prominence over 14 years.

It all makes for a somewhat complicated situation for Mr. Lapidus, 59 and a relatively unknown designer outside the French fashion world. (He is the son of the designer Ted Lapidus, and ran his father’s brand for 12 years after three years designing Balmain men’s wear). Especially because, according to reports, something of a strategic about-face is in the works.

Instead of building on Lanvin’s history as a French couture house, the oldest in continuous existence, one with a design signature marked by an extreme generosity of spirit and decorative ease, the plan, according to the Business of Fashion website, is to turn Lanvin into “a French Michael Kors.”

There’s no question that brands need to evolve. And fashion tends to advance on the punctuated equilibrium model proposed by the paleontologist Stephen Jay Gould: A house moseys along under one designer in one aesthetic until he or she leaves or is fired, at which point environmental stress is created, a new designer comes in with a new idea, and the brand heads off in a different direction.

Considering the announcement of Mr. Lapidus’s appointment by Shaw-Lan Wang, Lanvin’s owner and president — “Far ahead of his time, Olivier Lapidus has always been interested in new technologies. As a precursor couturier, he now resonates with the aspirations of the company and will be able to take up the challenges of Lanvin in the 21st century” — Lanvin seems to be at that point.

And given the problems the house has had, and the clear fact that it intends to go in a new direction by choosing Mr. Lapidus, who had recently introduced a web-only couture house named Création Olivier Lapidus, the scenario has a certain believability.

But it does raise the question: Is this actually a new direction?

What exactly was meant by “a French Michael Kors” was never specified in the article, and the phrase seems to have come from an anonymous inside source.

But maybe it refers to the pyramid business model on which Michael Kors, like so many American luxury brands, is built: one with a high-fashion line at the pinnacle, which rains style cred down on less expensive lines, from Michael Michael Kors to a variety of licenses, as well as a ubiquitous line of handbags, with accessible price points to support them.

Or perhaps it refers to the Kors signature style, which combines extreme simplicity in the sportswear sense with extreme luxe in the material sense and a resolute refusal to get neurotic, in the belief that all women ultimately want to look “pretty and rich,” as Mr. Kors once told me.

Maybe it is even referring to his star-making role on “Project Runway”? Well, probably not that.

Either way, given the financial challenges now facing Michael Kors — despite the fact that it had one of the most successful share listings of 2011 and was a runaway success story for a while — using it as a pattern for Lanvin seems a surprising choice.

Michael Kors has been grappling with plummeting sales and tepid profits after a rapid expansion effort, amid declining North American mall traffic and deep discounting tactics that have resulted in the Kors label losing much of its luster with core consumers. In May the company said that it would close 100 to 125 of its full-price retail stores, paying a high price for a damaging degree of overexposure. It downgraded its sales forecasts for the rest of the year, and its share price has fallen by 17 percent so far in 2017.

Even beyond the cautionary tale of the financials, however, there’s another, even more important reason that becoming “a French Michael Kors”is a bad idea, and it’s simple: Michael Kors already exists. It has colonized a very specific territory.

Success for any fashion brand comes from being able to define a point of difference: An approach to definition of dress that is all its own, and that gives consumers a reason to come to it, as opposed to anyone else.

There’s no question Lanvin needs a new approach: In 2012, at the zenith of the label’s success, revenues were 235 million euros, but in June, Lanvin reported revenue of €162 million for 2016, a 23 percent fall on the year before, with a net loss of €18.3 million. But the approach needs to be a genuinely new one.

And such approaches take time to gestate, both internally and externally. Presumably Mr. Lapidus knows this. Here’s hoping that the owners of the house that hired him know it too.
nytimes.com

__________________
"See, there is a difference between me and you. When you hear Celine you think of Dion. I think of the brand."
  Reply With Quote
 
11-07-2017
  36
Hell on Heels
 
mistress_f's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Rome
Gender: femme
Posts: 6,848
Quote:
Olivier Lapidus Joins Lanvin Amid Plans to Make Brand A French Michael Kors
For the love of god, WHY???!!

R.I.P. Lanvin. This really hurts as a former costumer and all around lover of what alber did at the house.

  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  37
front row
 
dcmaike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Gender: femme
Posts: 490
I worry more about the fact that his designs look like cheap versions of Marchesa and Elie Saab than about this quote.

__________________
Anna Ewers. Raquel Zimmermann. Freja Beha Erichsen. Grace Mahary. Fei Fei Sun. Tami Williams. Leila Nda. Rianne van Rompaey. Lululeika Ravn Liep. Nirvana Naves. Lorena Maraschi.
  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  38
V.I.P.
 
Nepenthes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Greece
Gender: homme
Posts: 5,583
This is really depressing...

  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  39
V.I.P.
 
Pricciao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,376
Can Lucas just bail out and start doing his thing please

  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  40
V.I.P.
 
TheoG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,150
I personally don't blame him for trying to find a solution to the problems that exist at Lanvin. There's clearly issues up at the top, the CEO Michele Huiban and owner Ms. Wang have been reluctant to invest in the brand for years. So I sort of feel, for lack of better words, these designers who are pressured to make sales for a house like Lanvin that doesn't want to invest anything what so ever. Investment alone isn't the reason why Lanvin has declining profit but I'm sure it would help to have some finical backing.

Something needs to happen but a 'French Michael Kors' probably is not the best business model to follow.

__________________
"I exist too much, I feel too much, think too much. Reality is crushing the life out of me."
  Reply With Quote
11-07-2017
  41
backstage pass
 
YohjiAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Mexico City
Gender: homme
Posts: 571
"The french Lanvin" La ignorancia es temeraria...

  Reply With Quote
12-07-2017
  42
http://fashionworldstuff.
 
Fashionstuff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Germany, Frankfurt
Gender: femme
Posts: 831
Can we give Olivier Lapidus a Chance to present his first Lanvin collection maybe?
Everybody were exited when Jarrar was named CD but her first Lookbook was disaster , it was a disaster from the beginning.
Yes, the press write and repeat "Michael Kors Business model" but same time Lanvin plans to return to haute Couture?!
Who knows, maybe it will be a success or maybe it will be disaster and than or Mayhoola will buy it or it will be a bankruptcy.
They want and try to repeat success of Gucci or YSL but i think it will be not easy.

Nobody want one more Michael Kors and i can't imagine Lanvin on this level.

  Reply With Quote
12-07-2017
  43
backstage pass
 
perhydrol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Poland
Gender: homme
Posts: 728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fashionstuff View Post
Can we give Olivier Lapidus a Chance to present his first Lanvin collection maybe?
Everybody were exited when Jarrar was named CD but her first Lookbook was disaster , it was a disaster from the beginning.
But that lookbook wasn't a disaster. It was chic yet the change was too radical and not loud enough and that's why buyers didn't really accept Bouchra. It wasn't like her clothes were disgusting and that's why she's fired. I bet she had been trying to do something more commercial because they wanted French Michael Kors back then.

Everyone was excited about Jarrar because her
couture was truly divine. It was chic, sharp and modern yet feminine at the same time. With that Lapidus guy all we can get is Zuhair Murad / Elie Saab, just ten years late and more tasteless. Do we really need to wait for a collection from a guy that opened a website and calls it an haute couture house?

  Reply With Quote
12-07-2017
  44
http://fashionworldstuff.
 
Fashionstuff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Germany, Frankfurt
Gender: femme
Posts: 831
Quote:
Originally Posted by perhydrol View Post
But that lookbook wasn't a disaster. It was chic yet the change was too radical and not loud enough and that's why buyers didn't really accept Bouchra. It wasn't like her clothes were disgusting and that's why she's fired. I bet she had been trying to do something more commercial because they wanted French Michael Kors back then.

Everyone was excited about Jarrar because her
couture was truly divine. It was chic, sharp and modern yet feminine at the same time. With that Lapidus guy all we can get is Zuhair Murad / Elie Saab, just ten years late and more tasteless. Do we really need to wait for a collection from a guy that opened a website and calls it an haute couture house?
Yes, surely Jarrar clothes were good, elegant and chic but they were not commercial. They were not interesting. They were simply boring. Bouchra's own couture collections were better that her Lanvin. My favorite is her couture ss 15 collection.
Who knows what the Lapidus will offer, he must offer something really interesting, it could be trashy, it could be quirky or could be elegant and sensual but he must deliver because if not than Lanvin will really dead. It is practically dead from before, without Elbaz nobody care about it.
Who knows, see Michele's Gucci , which i personally love, see Demna's Balenciaga , which i presonally don't like at all, YSL when Slimane came back to revamp the brand, so seems that Lanvin hope to succseed taking unknown designer ( and it is not a garantee of success, Hedi and Demna were not unknown and Alessandro worked also in Gucci yet) so Lanvin owner maybe think unknown designer + MK Business concept will revamp the brand. I am not sure that it will -or could work in every brand with any unknown designer, so but who knows what Lapidus will offer, he has archives, he has Atelier and he cas owners Support. Maybe he is a talented and with all this possibilies in Lanvin will create something really good.
I hope they are not going to make Lanvin a-la Michael Kors and sell the stuff on Zalando... or Amazon?

  Reply With Quote
14-07-2017
  45
backstage pass
 
sweetpop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Australia
Gender: femme
Posts: 638
By the looks of it, it seems there is a huge problem with the owner of Lanvin truly understanding what Lanvin is as a fashion house anymore, especially considering that 16 years ago that she was the one who 'revitalised' Lanvin with Alber and saw the amazing potential Alber had to give. It's not merely just needing to take Lanvin in a more modern direction I don't think, or trying on different business models on the house like trying on clothes on a mannequin, Lanvin needs someone like Tom Ford when he first started at Gucci, someone who knows exactly what they want for the house they are heading, and it is entirely an entirely original concept of their own, not basing it off the idea of someone else.

It grips my heart to think that the concluded 'solution' is to now turn Lanvin into a 'French Michael Kors'... the phrase 'French Michael Kors' ..I- I cannot compute this!! Perhaps the idea is to make Lanvin widely affordable to the masses and when the forecasted wave of profit comes rolling in, then they might gradually bring Lanvin back up to the higher echelons of exclusivity? I think there is a definite possibility that this kind of business tactic could work, especially in bringing in profit for shareholders, but there is a very fine line that senior management must be careful not to cross in over-saturating the market with Lanvin for everyone and essentially making the brand worthless over a short span of time, and generating profit levels like the house used to but also maintaining the house's reputation as a truly coveted luxury brand.


Last edited by sweetpop; 14-07-2017 at 09:23 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
joins, lanvin, lapidus, olivier
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:44 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. 2017 All rights reserved.