Olivier Theyskens Officially Parts Ways with Nina Ricci - Page 10 - the Fashion Spot
 
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12-04-2009
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i do agree that he possesses those surreal elements but i still think that there are links missing. i mean when i think of elsa's spirit living on in modern fashion,i see it in people like viktor & rolf,roksanda ilincic,basso & brooke,peter pilotto,katarzyna szczotarska,bernhard even margiela has those elements....you know that kind of whimsy and kitsch.

but i do think it's a house with a depth of history and legacy he can explore and experiment with A LOT more than nina ricci or rochas because elsa herself was that way. she was the original avant-garde,imo.


Last edited by Scott; 12-04-2009 at 01:55 PM.
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12-04-2009
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I know what you mean to be honest I just want him to do his own line I think he could be as creative as he wanted to be and would not need to follow any preset style. I just think if they are going to revive another house Schiaparelli would be amazing

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i do agree that he possesses those surreal elements but i still think that there are links missing. i mean when i think of elsa's spirit living on in modern fashion,i see it in people like viktor & rolf,roksanda ilincic,basso & brooke,peter pilotto,katarzyna szczotarska,bernhard even margiela has those elements....you know that kind of whimsy and kitsch.

but i do think it's a house with a depth of history and legacy he can explore and experiment with A LOT more than nina ricci or rochas because elsa herself was that way. she was the original avant-garde,imo.
I completely agree with you here. As much as I think that Olivier has the imagination, his S/S 02 collection with the trompe l'oeil shirt/corset dresses certainly comes to mind, the result is just very different from what Schiaparelli did.

As creative as Olivier is, I just don't think he has that tongue in cheek playfulness in him. He's not really that kind of designer.

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^ I think he could work at Schiaparelli because he cut clothes in a complex manner like she did I think he can embody the surrealist aspect of Schiaparelli with things that he has done in the past like the dead bird collection and really the 12in shoes as well those do have a touch of surrealism with the pointless heels. I think if he is going to go work anywhere that is not his own line this is my favorite by far and I am sure that the Halston rumor was just a bad joke ( I know that I was the one who posted it but I thought I should report anynews that had a semi decent source)
I totally agree. Theysken's aesthetic is quite surreal, especially what he had done on his own and what he created at Nina Ricci. Schiaparelli, as vivid humorous as she was, did have a dark streak that I think Theyskens could tap into easily. It would be a great fit.

But then, why bother reviving a dead name and not just establish his own? I suppose Schiaparelli's heritage would be easier to make a solid brand out of.

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04-05-2009
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wwd / may 4, 2009

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Halston is looking for a new creative director, and one name being bandied about for the gig is none other than Olivier Theyskens. According to sources, Vogue’s Anna Wintour is keen to find Theyskens, who recently exited Nina Ricci, a job in New York, and she is said to have been lobbying to get him installed at Halston. Over the past few months, the iconic brand has been putting its feelers out, and sources said it was at one point looking at Narciso Rodriguez and at London-based designer Marios Schwab to succeed Marco Zanini, who left the company last year after two seasons as creative director of the revived line. Halston executives said no decision has been made on a new creative director.

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Anna loves him.
I've heard somewhere on tv that she did write something about Olivier's departure in one of her editor's letter. Is that true ? Someone has it ?

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ya she wrote like a few paragraphs on it I just started laughing because she seemed so angry. I can find that issue and type it up for you later on today.

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NO! NOT HALSTON...are you kidding me? I know Anna loves Theyskens, but setting him up at Halston is doing Olivier no favors. He needs to start his own line up again...that's the only option I see for him now. Like I've said before, it's not good for his image to keep house hopping.

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You know what happens when you try and force two magnets with the same polarity together?

Yeah. That's all I can honestly think of with regards to that rumor.
I'm sticking to my guns on this. I just cannot fathom why anyone would think that Theyskens for Halston would be a good fit.

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Anna loves him.
I've heard somewhere on tv that she did write something about Olivier's departure in one of her editor's letter. Is that true ? Someone has it ?
Here 'tis ... accompanied by a 2004 picture of him fitting a model (Hana) at Rochas, and a photo of one of his Nina Ricci designs.

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But talent is a serious business. At Vogue, we do not take for granted the miraculous emergence, development, and ascendance of great artists. We depend on them for our livelihood. Without the likes of Mellen, Adele, or Beyonce and the smashing of the rules that their progress gloriously entails, there is no culture worth celebrating. Olivier Theyskens's recent departure from Nina Ricci suggests to me that the vital role of artistic talent has been obsured in the current economic climate. My staff and I were shocked to learn that Theyskens's contract would not be renewed; and I am very concerned that the business of fashion is undervaluing the most important asset our industry requires: creative visionaries. There's a reason we continue to see Theyskens's influence everywhere, from catwalks to the mall. He'll be back, but fashion must hold its nerve. This is the mission that we at Vogue happily shoulder.
Oh, the drama ...

Actually I'd like to see an analysis of the Theyskens influence she cites.

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05-05-2009
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yeah i don't quite understand that quote. granted he has influenced but to say it's everywhere i don't see it. marc jacobs and balenciaga,yeah sure but olivier is still very niche,imo.

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^ Perhaps she's giving him credit for the entire neogothic trend, which I don't think would be quite accurate ...

OK, I did see one piece at Anthropologie that I thought was Theyskens-influenced, and Anthropologie is at the mall

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I think you have to look back at everything hes done (not the bizarre, self indulgent last 3 collections) to realise the voice he has had, and the impact hes had in fashion. His own line and his work at Rochas were incredibly influential and did introduce some references that you can still see today. There an article on him somewhere called Beautiful Dreamer that sums it up quite well, might be in this thread.

Even his first 2 collections for Ricci set a tone and had a massive influence on the highstreet for a short while (in the UK anyway...).

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Here 'tis ... accompanied by a 2004 picture of him fitting a model (Hana) at Rochas, and a photo of one of his Nina Ricci designs.



Oh, the drama ...

Actually I'd like to see an analysis of the Theyskens influence she cites.

That quote is absolutely INSANE. How can Anna have any say about any "creative visionaries" when she has watered down and basically destroyed American fashion as we know it??

How absolutely clueless and past due she is, thinking that Halston and Theyskens could actually work! I mean, are you SERIOUS Anna!?!


Last edited by educo; 05-05-2009 at 10:30 PM.
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What I found most amusing about it is that she seems to feel that she and the Vogue staff are carrying out a mission equivalent to preserving democracy, ending global warming, and the like. I realize she is influential, but ... it's still just fashion

I am not that familiar with the Halston legacy, but from what I do know, I can't see any similarity between it and anything Theyskens has ever done.

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