Olivier Theyskens Officially Parts Ways with Nina Ricci - Page 7 - the Fashion Spot
 
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16-03-2009
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That Deacon-Schiaparelli rumour is age old. I made a thread of it in the Rumour Has It... area..
I can't really imagine Theyskens for Schiaparelli tbh - they seem like two designers with completely different ways of thinking.

I also want to see what Theyskens will do on his own. It's intriguing.

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16-03-2009
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I can totally see Olivier for Schiaparelli. Beautifully feminine, soft, avant-garde. Its totally Olivier. Oh and ofcourse strong shoulders.

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16-03-2009
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do you have the link crying diamonds? i can't seem to find it with search.


i can't see him either,i agree. it would definitely have to somebody with that spirit or talent capable of contrasting utter humour and wit with elegance...like a bernhard(his early seasons are so in that vein)....i even think a roksanda ilincic or katarzyna szczotarska(remember her lobster corsets in 2004?),has the kind of quirkiness and play on embellishment that could translate into schiap.

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16-03-2009
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Money money money.

He's such a great designer. Like any artist in our capitalist society, he'll never have the freedom to create.

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17-03-2009
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I, for one, think it's pretty obvious that Theyskens should just start over with his own brand. It would be a welcome addition.

Whereas reviving Schiap is not a good idea, imo. Some things are better left in the past. What is this obsession with famous old labels? I believe in carefully referencing the past and developing an interesting point of view about current times.

Just saying..

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17-03-2009
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^i agree pastry...research and individual perspective is far more interesting than reviving old labels. but if it were to happen,i mean,i would much rather it be someone who understands the language of elsa's body of work. but of course my suggestions are small talents....they would need that boring hype factor.

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17-03-2009
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I dont think theyre definately reviving it are they? It was rumoured (pre-'recession') that Giles would be relaunching it, after a particularly strong show from him. I think he would fit it although I dont like his work really, and I cant imagine how Schiap would function as a brand.

I hope Olivier does do something else. I think he peaked at Rochas though and I cant imagine what his next work will be like, he already said somewhere the gothic/historical/broken touch to his early work was 'just a phase'. Would be interesting to see what he could come up with without a house legacy. I hope he dosnt start referencing gothic again.

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17-03-2009
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well if it were a phase,it was a rather long phase. even all the way into some of his work at rochas,there was still elements that were prevalent. anyway,i don't think i'd want to see him rehash the corset-boning,hook and eye,catsuits with the embroidered circulatory system....but i would love see some of that more thoughtful design process back...as i said the antique-manipulated materials with a bit of that severity,that was utterly gorgeous and timeless to me.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimkhuu View Post
Money money money.

He's such a great designer. Like any artist in our capitalist society, he'll never have the freedom to create.
Being an artist is great if that's what you're selling. But he's selling clothes. As much as I respect Theysken's creative vision you have to wonder how in touch the man truly is if his clothes aren't selling.

It's clear Olivier has a penchant for luxe and the grand, unfortunately there aren't many product categories like that on which you can build a business, especially now. It's odd to me that designers like Rick Owens, Anne Demeulemeester, or Raf Simons, for as thought out and avant garde their clothes are, can manage to make a desirable and wearable garment yet still keep their identity and integrity intact. A Rick Owens t-shirt has the same appeal and design conviction that his shearling coats do, the appeal is carried across price points and across ranges - he makes sure there is something you can buy no matter your funds, and it's all pure Rick. Anne does this as well. Theyskens should take a lesson.

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17-03-2009
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^ I agree.

I mean, I think Theyskens is talented, but in seeing his work at Rochas and then at Nina Ricci there have been times when it's clear he's not at all concerned with making clothes that people can wear or even afford. You could call his persistence conviction or you could call it stubbornness. Point is, by not making garments that people want to buy, he's only fullfilling half the job of a designer. As for the artist argument, I don't buy it. Fashion designers aren't artists, they're artistic.

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17-03-2009
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To be honest, I've NEVER really understood why his clothes don't sell well. I mean, is price really the only reason Theyskens doesn't do well in retail?

Rochas, I can understand that things didn't sell so well, simply because for his first two years at the house, it was all eveningwear. But at Ricci? I'm still confused. Every show he produced for the house (with maybe the exception of SS 09) was mostly about daywear and individual pieces (jackets, coats, blouses, trousers, etc), with a few evening gowns closing the show. What is so unsellable about that?

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17-03-2009
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It really sucks because he is a great designer. The only reason he got fired was because of the economy. I wish the holding groups / owners of the house would rather see amazing clothes instead of money. Of course it will never be that way but a fashion lover can only dream. Is he going to start his own label? I thought I heard that he was.

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17-03-2009
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i dunno if really agree that his work is inaccessible because at his own line he sold quite a bit to barney's every season till he stopped. on top of his made-to-order standards that people clamoured toward at his bruxelles atelier.

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18-03-2009
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I'm not really surprised. Anyway, is he officially off to Schiaparelli now?

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18-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimkhuu View Post
Money money money.

He's such a great designer. Like any artist in our capitalist society, he'll never have the freedom to create.

This is contradictory. An artist is NOT a designer. And these people paid him to be a DESIGNER and he goes off to be an artist.

A designer is there to design products that will be put to use. An artist doesn't have to do that.

If he wants to create art, then go ahead. But don't come near a fashion label who's primary goal is to create products that will sell.

Designers can have artistic tendencies, but the smart ones know how to strike a balance that will please everyone involved. Let's face it, Theyskens does not know how to do that, not even with his own label.


Last edited by educo; 18-03-2009 at 02:40 AM.
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