Perhaps it was the jolt of confidence that came from Beyoncé wearing his black and white jumpsuit to the Grammys earlier this month, but Osman Yousefzada suddenly and most dramatically upped the ante at his show today.
Backstage, Yousefzada told us he was thinking "Narnia—but not literally." But for us, a cape-back white trouser suit, a one-shouldered gray dress with an asymmetrical trumpet hem, and jackets with gauntlet sleeves conjured nothing so much as Sharon Stone circa Basic Instinct. Osman also subtly played up his Afghani roots via a midnight-blue jumpsuit with gold brocade detail, and a gossamer lace dress with stamped Lurex that was as light as vapor. A discreet cornflower-blue brocade and loopy Karakul wool knits—a first cousin of Astrakhan wool—provided further ethnic touches.
Osman's next trick in this cohesive and enlightened collection was to take lowly rabbit fur and make it look like mink on vests with shawl collars. A double-faced gray cashmere coat is likewise sure to win over customers. Which reminds us: Osman is the king of the "sell-through"—the expression retailers use when clothes sell at full price and don't even make it to markdown. In the end it was perhaps the utter delight on the face of Matches founder and CEO Tom Chapman that said it all. This collection will bring out the credit cards.