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29-04-2005
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birdofparadise's Avatar
 
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What's interesting about design right now is its attempt to shake off the ill effects of the logo mania 90s and current handbag craze. The six designers mentioned seem real in their attempt to turn it around a little. Even Pilati's homey and clunky accessories, that's certainly a conscious, ironic decision to show he's thinking about what's going on. But I think even that feeling, that ambition is a borrowed one. Earlier this year, Horyn gave a big shout out to menswear as being where its at, she admired its ease, it's renewed focus on solid design and lavished praise on Raf Simons among others. I think she's subtly building a bridge...and I agree with the unsaid.

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29-04-2005
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Walter has been selling under his own name for quite a few seasons already and earlier under the brand name aestheticsterrorists. I wouldn't say he was out of business but his sense of aesthtics had hardly evolved since his W&LT days. I still find his stuff fun and appealing although I treat them more like overpriced streetwear than true fashion items.

Anyone noticed that Margiela was mentioned as one of the Antwerp 6, which he is not.

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29-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
quote...'there were 6: Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van Saene, Dries van Noten, Walter van Beirondonck, Marina Yee'

correct me if i am wrong...but i thought walter was basically out of business (though, maybe he still sells a bit in asia)...and also van saene (but coming back now)...bikkembergs has a small presence...but i think isn't even the same brand anymore...with all the logo and sport stuff...and marina yee is..?...well...who is marina yee?...barely anyone really even knows...

it really seems like ann and dries are the only ones having anything that could be considered commercial success..and even they are struggling to keep it going and to expand...continually...
Yeah,to concur with whizkit,Walter discontinued W&LT(ONLY)a few years ago because of problems due to the company that was backing him. He then started on the label bearing his own name. And he's had the streetwear line, æstheticterrorists,for a while-even during W&LT years. So no,he's not out of business. Plus he has that fabulous shop on top of all that. Dirk Van Saene is not out of business either. He's had financial problems recently but has never closed his business. He did a collection last season,actually. He just doesn't hold shows much anymore...only showroom. Marina Yee is still doing her own thing as well. She has two lines: one called M.Y. Workshop and the other being called Lena Lena which is a line for curvier ladies,if you will.

But you're point that they're even struggling to keep it going....as if any designer doesn't.

That quote though from Chloé boy...it's such diluted conglomerate dross.

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29-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey

**one of the things i found so interesting...
it seems that even though the companies that these paris-based designers work for may be big...they still have some serious financial issues...spending money and making money are apparently two very different things......so who IS making money??...why is everyone always crying poor?!?!...it's so depressing and discouraging to me...!!!...
it's like..if these guys aren't doing well...then, i give up!!...i don't get it...
that is true...only LV is making a profit, and that's due in large part to the accessories. i know ghesquiere has given himself 18 months to make balenciaga profitable (you can definitely see the line growing a bit more commercial with the f/w collection...more shoes, accessories), and ysl had money problems well before pilati took over. chloe has been around for how long?? and it's still isn't profitable...

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29-04-2005
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i've recently read that chloe, as of some time now, is actually profitable... i dont remember the exact figures, but i think they're beginning to expand into more accesories and even children's clothing...

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29-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whizkit
Anyone noticed that Margiela was mentioned as one of the Antwerp 6, which he is not.
Yea, I forgot to post that yesterday. Isn't that insane? It should be fashion 101

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29-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toohipforbrooklyn
i've recently read that chloe, as of some time now, is actually profitable... i dont remember the exact figures, but i think they're beginning to expand into more accesories and even children's clothing...
yup...i believe that chloe is profitable...but i guess not on a very large scale...i guess it must really cost a lot to run a business of that magnitude...so you must need huge sales to turn a decent profit...

i think it really puts some perspective on things ...
even though fashion has become so popularized...with many more people interested in it than ever before...i'm pretty sure that most people don't really understand how tough a business fashion is...because it really looks so fabulous and fun from the outside...

i'm beginning to think it may be a lot more fun to just be a consumer of fashion rather than to work in the industry....maybe sometimes it's just better not to know too much...and to just enjoy things for what they are...without all that heavy info...

thanks for the upates on those designers scott and whizkit...

regarding scott's comment that perhaps all designers always struggle...well...that's a very sad and depressing thought for me...to think that it never gets any easier for anyone and that your life is going to be one huge struggle until the day you die...well...i really hope that this is not true...

maybe i am naive (and this is very possible....) ...but i was raised to believe that if you worked hard and payed your dues and didn't give up..that someday you would be rewarded for all your efforts...and i'm still clinging to this belief...i know life isn't always fair...but i'd like to believe that it is possible to achieve some level of comfort which requires less of a struggle...that all the years of hard work and busting your a** will not have been for nothing...and that at some point you can begin to breathe easier and relax a little...but unfortunatley, i don't really know if this is true anymore...

i think that is why i am so unhappy to hear that even the big guns are having a hard time...it's so tough out there...

although i bet karl lagerfeld is living pretty large......

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30-04-2005
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I didn't mean to insinuate that it's always been like that. In fact,designers--even smaller designers--were having a pretty good time before "that date"(so I won't piss Faust off...hehe)....then the two wars. Right now,I feel fashion is still an extreme state of stagnation...depression. I know it's an easy excuse but with the economical impact of everything going on,it still isn't helping anybody.

Besides all that,I think banality is ruling the game at the moment. As said at the beginning of this article with those non-designed celebrity brands. It's just that nobody seems to care much for design nor do they feel they should want to fork it over. Cheap and easy fashion really seems to be the "in" thing right now.

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30-04-2005
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But like you,I remain optimistic that it'll pass soon. If not,I suspect some of us might need to seek the help of a therapist...

You see,it's one of the reasons,I think I've been going back alot lately,to earlier collections. They seemed so much more inspiring than they are these days because of so much safeness. The emotions seemed stronger...more intense...more visually evocative than now. Maybe that's just me?

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30-04-2005
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...scott...
what you say is only too true...
i guess the emergence and gaining popularity of some actual 'designers' must be a good sign...(i hope)...

and maybe i'm just a little depressed myself...
since i am part of this industry...for better or for worse...*sigh*...

it's so different than it used to be...it's gotten so much harder...
and as you point out...rather mediocre...
it was one thing to fight and work for things you loved and really wanted...but when you have to work that hard at things you don't even really care about ...it starts to seem rather pointless and ridiculous...like i might as well go work at a bank......or any other job that doesn't require much creativity...


**oh ...nevermind me...i'm just feeling a little sorry for myself...boo hoo!......
it seems that all the people i know who have gone the corporate route are the only ones who aren't struggling these days...in the same way as the designers...
but if you're not struggling financially, then you're struggling creatively...everyone seems to be struggling in some way right now...

and i don't think the industry has ever had so many people trying to break into it before either...everyone sees all the programs and fashion features on tv and thinks it looks like fun...sooooo many people want to work in fashion...but there's even less jobs and less money than there used to be...so i just don't see how any of this is going to work...how is anybody going to make a decent amount of money...??...
too many people+not enough jobs+lower salaries=???...
i don't get it...doesn't really add up, does it...?...not a very pretty picture...

ok...i've got to stop...i'm just ranting now...sorry...


no need to reply...
everyone can just ignore this post if they choose...
but i had to get it out of my system...

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30-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott
I didn't mean to insinuate that it's always been like that. In fact,designers--even smaller designers--were having a pretty good time before "that date"(so I won't piss Faust off...hehe)....then the two wars. Right now,I feel fashion is still an extreme state of stagnation...depression. I know it's an easy excuse but with the economical impact of everything going on,it still isn't helping anybody.

Besides all that,I think banality is ruling the game at the moment. As said at the beginning of this article with those non-designed celebrity brands. It's just that nobody seems to care much for design nor do they feel they should want to fork it over. Cheap and easy fashion really seems to be the "in" thing right now.
Thank you! Honestly, consumer spending since 9/11 has been the biggest in the history of the US. It's just, as you accurately noted, they are spending it on the wrong things. It's the masses, nothing you can do about it - they have always been ignorant boring boors, and they will stay that way. They don't have any qualms dropping $200+ on a pair of some gimmicky denim (not exactly cheap, but very "easy"). I bet you Rogan is doing just fine.

One other possible thing - designers should really reconsider their pricing strategies. I'm sorry, but I can not warrant spending $700 on a pair of black wool pants. I know $ vs. Euro is largely responsible, but even without it, the markups are a little crazy. And then the stores wonder why they can't sell. Has anyone else noticed that sales have been starting earlier with each season for the past two years?

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30-04-2005
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Oh...I agree with that last sentiment totally. I remember seeing a blouse by Miguel Adrover on ebay(you guys might have seen it....was a champagne colour).....it was a beauty for sure....100% silk granted....but this seller said she paid $800 retail for this thing! It was just a simple shape at best. Tailored well but certainly not worth such a price tag. Really,it was $800 for a $2-400(at the max)blouse.

Then I see some of that Boudicca stuff on Seven....I dunno if it's got anything to do with the conversion and that Euro/UK labels just are costing more in the U.S. nowadays or not....but some of those prices are appalling.

Don't worry Softie,I feel just the same as you do. But if it weren't for so many young talents coming about I'd really be depressed. It's really the only way I've been able to remain excited about fashion...discovering interesting new talents. So much so that it's become my passion,now.

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30-04-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimair
also interesting that john galliano wasn't mentioned in the 6, as opposed to pilati...i thought the fashion media loved him...
hmm it is surprising, his last collection was beautiful..

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30-04-2005
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^ Maybe he's been around for longer than the ones mentioned.

One question, if brands like Chloe and YSL have financial problems how is John Galiano's brand surviving? Because in my opinion though I do like it very much, most of those clothes are just to crazy to wear.

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30-04-2005
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galliano's own brand is seriously funded by christian dior/lvmh...
and dior survives on all their bags, accessories, perfume, cosmetics...

and galliano may have had a couple of collecitons that were a bit more wearable recently...but he's certainly not doing anything 'new' or 'modern'...

he's stuck in a rut...imo...i think he should go back to his 'roots'...

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