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04-03-2005
  61
kit
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Location: Stalybridge , Gr.Manchester , North UK .
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I forgot about Rei Kawakubo's 80s experiments in boiling wool jackets , but she was one of the first , if not THE first , of the deconstructionists , and strongly influenced the Belgian designers , especially Margiela .


BTW ' boiled wool ' , in the old fashioned sense , is a middle-european technique , Austrian I think , to make wool cloth water repellant , by boiling it to make the weave as tight as possible .

Oiling wool , as in loden cloth , is another way to make fabric water repellant .

There's NOTHING new under the sun ..........

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05-03-2005
  62
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I saw Mr harnden in paris this week - one word - Fagan.....

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05-03-2005
  63
front crow
 
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I often had the discussion about not having anything new under the sun, especially in the fashion context. Maybe there are eras of concepts, and interpretation of these concepts. Maybe we will have the opportunity to see real new inovtions in the fashion industry, but i would rather expect them from the chemists and the biologists rather than the couturiers..

I think the most important thing now is to get the clients to understand the work and appreciate the opportunity of having individuals like altieri or poell that hang on to they r vision. Long lasting quality with long lasting design, added with the emotionaL part of it, all this burying in afganistan deserts or such, thats so wonderfull to be able to dream awake, we need this. This one jacket, u ruined yourself for it, u loved it, hated it, walked, ate, cryed in it. You live with these clothes, create a balance.

we have to stop consuming like maniacs, well end up burying ourselves in garbage.

Im mixing a couple of ideas in here, too much to type, but:

long live small independant brands

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05-03-2005
  64
kit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *sayan
I often had the discussion about not having anything new under the sun, especially in the fashion context. Maybe there are eras of concepts, and interpretation of these concepts. Maybe we will have the opportunity to see real new inovtions in the fashion industry, but i would rather expect them from the chemists and the biologists rather than the couturiers..

I think the most important thing now is to get the clients to understand the work and appreciate the opportunity of having individuals like altieri or poell that hang on to they r vision. Long lasting quality with long lasting design, added with the emotionaL part of it, all this burying in afganistan deserts or such, thats so wonderfull to be able to dream awake, we need this. This one jacket, u ruined yourself for it, u loved it, hated it, walked, ate, cryed in it. You live with these clothes, create a balance.

we have to stop consuming like maniacs, well end up burying ourselves in garbage.

Im mixing a couple of ideas in here, too much to type, but:

long live small independant brands
I feel your pain , and I do understand .

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05-03-2005
  65
scenester
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Me too, I saw him at a store reception party on rue du harold in Paris tonight.
I could tell that was him right away. He wore his own design from "hat" to toe.
I went to speak to him and make sure I was right. He was very very friendly and admitted he is the man of himself.

You guys might not know, CDG(Rei) did those jkt about 10 years ago, it was actually a collabration with Mr. Paul Harnden. This was the lady at "IF" told me, so you guys can stop argue now.........

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05-03-2005
  66
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Im wondering if Its hard to get an internship with him?

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06-03-2005
  67
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so i see... rei is turning out to be not-so-innovative afterall!! seems like most of her 'inventions' had 'real innovators' collaborating!! sigh... she's just a very good publicist/marketing person that knows how to 'create' sensation and perception... well, at least she's giving due credit to some of these people such as watanabe!

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07-03-2005
  68
trendsetter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surver
so i see... rei is turning out to be not-so-innovative afterall!! seems like most of her 'inventions' had 'real innovators' collaborating!! sigh... she's just a very good publicist/marketing person that knows how to 'create' sensation and perception... well, at least she's giving due credit to some of these people such as watanabe!
I take it you're joking, or trying to be provocative, rather than just ill-informed?

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09-03-2005
  69
trendsetter
 
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Fagan in background


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09-03-2005
  70
V.I.P.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny
Fagan in background

Duhh! Thanks Johnny! It's been a long time since I read Dickens.

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11-03-2005
  71
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of course rei's still one of my heroes - precisely because she is very very good in finding very very good people to work for her...

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11-03-2005
  72
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anyone can provide a direct way to contact paul harnden? i wish to seek him out to discuss some possibilities incl. collaboration, representation, etc..

merci.

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11-03-2005
  73
trendsetter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surver
of course rei's still one of my heroes - precisely because she is very very good in finding very very good people to work for her...
So you think that her success (in terms of producing all of the wildly innovative and exciting collections that she has made for over 30 years) is entirely down to others? Paul Harnden is a suberb craftstman no doubt, but he's not creative at all. There's nothing innovative about what he does. Comme des garcons would have used his expertise in making jackets, but would not have obtained any creative vision from him. Watanabe is her protege - she hasn't relied on him at all!! It's much more theother way round, as Junya would readily admit (and has in any interviews I've read with him).

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11-03-2005
  74
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When asked what his general views on fashion were, in an interview with i-D, Junya said 'I have the same attitudes as Rei Kawakubo' (or something to that effect)...

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11-03-2005
  75
trendsetter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrinceOfCats
When asked what his general views on fashion were, in an interview with i-D, Junya said 'I have the same attitudes as Rei Kawakubo' (or something to that effect)...
Exactly... I was thinking of the same interview (it's in the iD book I think)

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