Phoebe Philo to leave Céline - Page 2 - the Fashion Spot
 
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22-12-2017
  16
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Lola701's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donyan View Post
this is very sad , Celine was consistedly great , creatively and quality-wise , a true Luxury Brand.
I think Lutz Huelle would be a perfect match, especially now that he’s finally on everybody’s radar
Unfortunately, talent and hype is not enough today. I really don't think that a designer like Lutz would want to work under a big conglomerate with huge expectations and all of that at a big turning point for the brand.

This is LVMH and we are not in 1997 or in the early 00's anymore. Creativity is not what drive that kind of business. Look at Dior and Givenchy today.
The same can also happen to Celine or Fendi when Karl leave.

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22-12-2017
  17
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I'm sad she's leaving. I bet someone really hollow is going to replace her unfortunately

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22-12-2017
  18
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Johnathan Saunders popped into my mind for some very odd reason. (Though I’d prefer him at Burberry)

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23-12-2017
  19
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Even though I expected it, still find it a bit shocking. She somehow kept the brand, the aestetic, her offering very constant for the entire decade. 10 Years is far too long to function in such a defined vessel, but she did it.

All the pieces of the puzzle pointed out on here is slowly falling in place, so I believe the Burberry rumour to be true. There too, I think she could turn the brand into a different direction, which shouldn't be too hard because Bailey didn't leave them in tatters. Or perhaps for that very reason it will be.

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23-12-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
Unfortunately, talent and hype is not enough today. I really don't think that a designer like Lutz would want to work under a big conglomerate with huge expectations and all of that at a big turning point for the brand..
You’re probably right , but he would be able to keep an aesthetic vision and make it desirable commercially. I always liked his stuff but he really has hit his stride now . anyway , we can always dream

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23-12-2017
  21
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What an absolute shame! Phoebe has really become an icon and during her tenure at Céline, she has really produced some of the most incredible work. It's obvious that she has inspired so many other designers and I guess it goes to show what a true talent she is. I really wish her all of the best for whatever she chooses to do next.

I would really like to see Simon Porte Jacquemus next at Céline. He absolutely deserves more recognition and I feel like he could take the brand in so many new and intersting ways.

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23-12-2017
  22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
Her influence is tremendous and while people may think that Michele or Gvasalia have a real influence, we are still in a very Philo-Ghesquiere dominated era.
^ This!

Sad news, but expected. The only person I can see that could "replace" her is Stefano Pilati. They've benn inspiration for each other, and he could do a really good job. I don't know if Jacquemus understands luxury yet, I think he is a way better match for Lanvin (mother-daughter, naivety).

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23-12-2017
  23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wenden View Post
^ This!

Sad news, but expected. The only person I can see that could "replace" her is Stefano Pilati. They've benn inspiration for each other, and he could do a really good job. I don't know if Jacquemus understands luxury yet, I think he is a way better match for Lanvin (mother-daughter, naivety).
Luxury today is just a term used to define high fashion and justify the insane prizes of the brands.
We are in a era where a printed designer t-shirt is on the same level with a Chanel tweed jacket.

The problem today is that designers totally understand what luxury means for big conglomerates but only a few understand design and the purpose of high fashion.

But Pilati like Jacquemus can do Celine justice.

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23-12-2017
  24
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I don't know who started the Jacquemus rumor but I think he/she mustn't have thought for longer than 2 seconds; I definitely think there's genuine talent there but I'd rather have Jacquemus develop his own vision/brand for a tad longer rather than throwing him in the lion's den so soon, at the risk of jeopardizing his entire career.
I am also kind of startled at the fact that, in the whirlwind of names named as possible successors to Phoebe, no one thought of Louise Trotter whom, I think, is doing a very good job at Joseph (a brand for basic pieces where I feel her efforts go a bit lost, sometimes): she is massively underrated and definitely deserves a better spotlight for her talent.

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23-12-2017
  25
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I don't know, I feel like Céline is too much for him right now. The customer don't need innovation, the brand is doing great on all fronts, so what will he bring? That's actually the biggest mystery about Phoebe's 10year stint. Her aesthetic never saturated. Jacquemus should've gone to Lanvin where he could've expanded alongside this brand.

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23-12-2017
  26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bc collector View Post
I don't know who started the Jacquemus rumor but I think he/she mustn't have thought for longer than 2 seconds; I definitely think there's genuine talent there but I'd rather have Jacquemus develop his own vision/brand for a tad longer rather than throwing him in the lion's den so soon, at the risk of jeopardizing his entire career.
Two parts of her prediction already proved to be true.
It's now a race to see whether Burberry or Céline will announce their new successor first.

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23-12-2017
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Jacquemus better than Proenza Schouler for this (they being gossiped about too)....

Pilati actually better for Lanvin, I'd say. Its only hope is as Discerning Lady Brand

Lutz Huelle said he'd like a big job such as Celine when asked directly in a wonderful Pop magazine interview a year or two ago....

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23-12-2017
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This is very sad but since the rumours have been going around for a while, not entirely unexpected. I've been binge watching her collections lately and began to appreciate how brilliant she is in giving simple designs the most intricate details. She truly defined an era. Not every collection was ground breaking but even then, she was still better than her copiers.

I think she'd do wonders at Burberry and make it special again. Over the last few years, in an effort to keep the books in order, the label became overtly commercialised and turned into Michael Kors plus. I miss the Prorsum line, especially when it was shown in Milan. I hope she goes there and sorts it out. It'll be great seeing her design some menswear too.

As for her replacement, I think Pilati will indeed be a great fit BUT as much as I want him there, I think Lanvin desperately needs him. Jacquemus will also be interesting as well as JW Anderson. But I definitely don't want to see him leave LOEWE!

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23-12-2017
  29
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I don't find it particularly emotional to see her resign from Céline, it's pretty certain she will come back to become the creative director at another house - Her flawlessly successful 10 year tenure should secure she can continue to work elsewhere under relatively comfortable conditions as she did at Céline, where her job was fit after her exacting demands.


Last edited by tricotineacetat; 23-12-2017 at 01:37 PM.
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23-12-2017
  30
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TaylorBinque's Avatar
 
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Really sad but also exciting for what she will be doing next. The work that she has crafted and put in making Celine what it is today is tremendous and I agree with Lola that even though the buzz and hype of Michele and Demna are in the air, the majority and fast fashion brands still have Celine on their mood board. Her tenure was really flawless. Even her least uninspiring collection prove to be better than most designers. And the fact even without digital presence or e-commerce, it proves that creativity, design and talent can really contribute to a fashion house and business.

While I think Pilati has a knack and talent for it, the direction Celine is going to take after Phoebe would be more in line with other LVMH brands. Jacquemus would do so well here and he has the buzz around him already.

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