Phoebe Philo to leave Céline - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
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3 Weeks Ago
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GivenchyHomme's Avatar
 
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She's a great designer but she hasn't really evolved that much since she started at Celine. She tried to experiment back in 2015 but she quickly went back to her signature "Celine" style. It works, but it's not that interesting anymore. Her last year proved that to be true. Perhaps she's against change? Maybe it really is time for her to leave. She did a lot for the house, and her tenure will go down in history. I hope she goes out with a bang for her last collection.

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3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MulletProof View Post
I can't believe it's already been 10 years! I always look at her collections like she's on her third or fourth year.

She's had a stellar, flawless decade there, even when ripping off Sharon Wauchob. Céline was 200% s*it before her and for such a long time.. now we all think of Céline as something clean.. forward-thinking, she's been amazing for them but I don't blame her for wanting to move on after such a long time.. I would!
Exactly what I am thinking…..

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Céline asked Lemaire but he refused the job someone told me...

Accepting this position is a dangerous gift.... Philo redefined fashion, luxury and communication in a very unique way and only a very few people we could with the fingers of one hand could fil the gap left behind her.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by IloveDiorHomme View Post
Céline asked Lemaire but he refused the job someone told me...

Accepting this position is a dangerous gift.... Philo redefined fashion, luxury and communication in a very unique way and only a very few people we could with the fingers of one hand could fil the gap left behind her.
Well, thank god Lemaire didn't end up there - I'd rather have him stay with Uniqlo where having a top Paris designer really makes a difference than for him to continue the aesthetic template already established at Céline by Phoebe. There's really no prestige for him to win there at this point, after Hermès.

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I couldn’t agree more. Hermès was done so gracefully by lemaire. I think to go to Céline would be an uninteresting move for him.
It’s too bad Tomas Tait has left the spotlight. I really liked his development and I could see someone like him take on Céline after Philo

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Originally Posted by Norden View Post
I couldn’t agree more. Hermès was done so gracefully by lemaire. I think to go to Céline would be an uninteresting move for him.
It’s too bad Tomas Tait has left the spotlight. I really liked his development and I could see someone like him take on Céline after Philo

Couldn't agree more

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Originally Posted by dodencebt View Post
My heart goes out to Victoria Beckham in these hard times.
So touched by your empathy

Very interesting tidbit about the interview. So what would that mean?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewak View Post
Jacquemus better than Proenza Schouler for this (they being gossiped about too)....

Pilati actually better for Lanvin, I'd say. Its only hope is as Discerning Lady Brand

Lutz Huelle said he'd like a big job such as Celine when asked directly in a wonderful Pop magazine interview a year or two ago....
The best fit for Lanvin right now is a designer with a death wish.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodencebt View Post
My heart goes out to Victoria Beckham in these hard times.


But seriously tho, I fear for a dozen of brand out there. They'll be like headless chickens without Phoebe guiding their path forward.

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All the Proenzas of this world are quaking.

It's going to be even worse to handle than Lanvin after Alber imho. Phoebe transformed Céline on so many levels with its aesthetics into something truly personal and honest. And even if it had been repetitive for few seasons, it still felt like real fashion. That's why they should leave it to the team for some time. Those people would do fabulous job in terms of preparing the brand for its new chapter because they are already trained like nobody else and they had that independence under Philo.

What scares me is the list of candidates. Hiring a potential copycat is the worst idea for Céline and it seems like they want to go that direction.

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It somehow feels as if LVMH seems to be far removed from the creative choices they took in the 90s and 00s, maybe they want to turn Celine into another version of what they are doing with Dior and Givenchy. Phoebe was very headstrong, the fact there never was a proper Online Presence might have caused some friction. I’m not holding my breath tbh

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Quote:
Originally Posted by donyan View Post
It somehow feels as if LVMH seems to be far removed from the creative choices they took in the 90s and 00s, maybe they want to turn Celine into another version of what they are doing with Dior and Givenchy. Phoebe was very headstrong, the fact there never was a proper Online Presence might have caused some friction. I’m not holding my breath tbh
They just started to have an online store for Celine in France. I think at the end of the day LVMH is all about sales. What interesting to me is that all of Kering brands have really well structured e-commerce business yet each one is treated with strong creative and business direction. Gucci and Bottega Veneta always experiment with their campaigns. Most of LVMH brands continues to use the same photographers that do not bring anything new to the table at all.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaylorBinque View Post
They just started to have an online store for Celine in France. I think at the end of the day LVMH is all about sales. What interesting to me is that all of Kering brands have really well structured e-commerce business yet each one is treated with strong creative and business direction. Gucci and Bottega Veneta always experiment with their campaigns. Most of LVMH brands continues to use the same photographers that do not bring anything new to the table at all.
that’s my feeling too, Kering seem to have a very strong sense of direction and purpose for each of their brands , they have taken risks that have paid off spectacularly , whereas LVMH seems a bit lost as to what to do with their brands .They all seem to work well financially but there’s no passion or emotion anymore

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So, from the latest rumors, Jacquemus is indeed a contender.

For those who don't know about it, Delphine Arnault has been very instrumental about everything fashion in LVMH. She was instrumental for Nicolas to join Vuitton as she was for JWA to join Loewe.

Jacquemus is a strong contender because, first of all: The LVMH prize. Out of all the winners, he is really the one who had made an impact in the scene. He has been featured a lot in the medias, on TV and all. He is selling well and his business has really took off since.

Jacquemus is also french and based in Paris with a small team. Why is it still a rumor? Because Jacquemus has expressed a lot his desire to remain independent and it's unsure to determine if he can handle the pressure.

Jacquemus aside, they are considering giving the job to an LVMH Prize finalist instead of a big star.

One thing is sure, even if they expected Phoebe to leave, this doesn't really comes at the right time for LVMH. While most of the brands are doing good (except for MJ), it's quite an uncertain time for LVMH brands. They have lost Dundas and since then, Pucci has been flat, Dior is there and between and they have that Givenchy thing that is not really in place. Now, Celine and as Nicolas's status will remain unknown until the end of 2018, it will not be easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by donyan View Post
Kering seem to have a very strong sense of direction and purpose for each of their brands , they have taken risks that have paid off spectacularly , whereas LVMH seems a bit lost as to what to do with their brands .They all seem to work well financially but there’s no passion or emotion anymore
There's some truth in that but it's all part of a shift. 3 years ago, the hottest brands were Louis Vuitton and Celine. Balenciaga and Gucci weren't in that place.
Plus, i don't think we can really say that Alexander McQueen or Bottega Veneta have a real sense of direction or purpose.

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I've said this many times but it's too soon for Jacquemus. Let Simon build his own brand up a bit longer before falling to the pressures of LVMH and the legacy of Phoebe.

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