Phoebe Philo to leave Céline - Page 5 - the Fashion Spot
 
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03-01-2018
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Hiring someone from the company doesn't assure a change of aesthetic or even a good response from the retailers and critics.
Nor does hiring a well-known designer. So far MGC's Dior and CWK first Givenchy outing have been received with a rather lukewarm response, to mention the latest 2 LVMH designer shuffles.

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They can find someone unknown or famous who can really shake-up the brand while maintaining the products and the aesthetic.
Just curious, how could they maintain the brands aesthetic and at the same time really shake up the brand?

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Gucci is a leather goods company, Celine is a RTW luxury brand first and we are in a era where brands makes money in clothes as much as they do in accessories..
But, do they? While the era of the IT bag seems definitely over, you should not underestimate the importance of shoes, leather goods, accessories, jewellery, even for a more RTW focused brand such as Celine. While Celine clothes may not have been for everyone in terms of general fit, the broader appeal of the brand is in all the other products. The number of Celine bags and sneakers I have seen on people in the streets who would never buy their RTW was at some point very striking.

Interesting that you mention Gucci, because if one brand has scaled up their ostentatious presence and desirability in RTW over the past year it is Gucci.

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Nor does hiring a well-known designer. So far MGC's Dior and CWK first Givenchy outing have been received with a rather lukewarm response, to mention the latest 2 LVMH designer shuffles.
That's why i believe there's no rule in this kind of things. If you really look closer to it, generally, brands go for "someone from the team" when they are not in positions of "trouble". It's obvious for Kering because it has happened many times in the group. At LVMH, they believe in a big brand mixed with a big voice...Even if the voice is barely known. I mean Galliano wasn't Galliano for the world when he became the creative director of Dior. The same for Jacobs and the others.

They have tried with "the team" thing at Dior, twice, but while they were able to maintain sales, we can't say that Dior really benefited from Gaytten or the duo after Simons.


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Just curious, how could they maintain the brands aesthetic and at the same time really shake up the brand?
I think that Celine stand for certain things: a certain artistry, a discreet and slightly pretentious (some would say intellectual) image with very luxurious and minimal products. Celine by Philo wasn't minimalist to me, she just happened to have stripped back all the noise of fashion before her.

To be less abstract, i think Celine needs to be more playful, more fun in a much more "accessible" way. The brand is almost niche. Their bags and accessories are everywhere but it still feels intouchable right now.

With the new e-commerce, it will be different. Their challenge will be to not go for the obvious commercial route.
I think that Margiela before Galliano nailed it perfectly. It was very different from the time Mr Margiela was there. From the products to the retail and everything...It felt different but they were able to maintain the spirit of the house (sometimes in a very superficial way) while selling a lot more a being less disruptive as before.



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Originally Posted by style_expert View Post
But, do they? While the era of the IT bag seems definitely over, you should not underestimate the importance of shoes, leather goods, accessories, jewellery, even for a more RTW focused brand such as Celine. While Celine clothes may not have been for everyone in terms of general fit, the broader appeal of the brand is in all the other products. The number of Celine bags and sneakers I have seen on people in the streets who would never buy their RTW was at some point very striking.

Interesting that you mention Gucci, because if one brand has scaled up their ostentatious presence and desirability in RTW over the past year it is Gucci.
They do sell clothes and most of fashion houses today are selling clothes. Of course, historic houses like Versace or Armani have always depend on clothes more than accessories but we are in a era where brands that are part of big luxury structures have their RTW department being taken seriously by the suits compared to maybe 10 years ago when most of the structures were like Bottega Veneta.

Historic couture houses and niche brands had their faithful clientele but RTW was seen as something that couldn't touch people anyway.
Hedi Slimane and later Michele changed that. Suddenly, the entry price level item of a luxury is not necessarly a 300 pair of sunglasses that can fit anyone but also a fun logo t-shirt or a tracksuit that can be easily produced in many sizes.

People are buying into a designer version of what they have.

For Celine, i know they are selling a lot in Asia because from Seoul to Singapore and from Tokyo to Hong Kong, people who loves the brand are really engaged with the RTW. In Europe it's always a bit different...It's slightly niche, maybe a little bit more bourgeois. But Celine's influence has proven to be massive. That's why LVMH had this plan for e-commerce.

Before, brands were totally fine with a 80%-20% ratio in terms of sales between fashion and leather goods. But today, the possibilities are endless. Look at Givenchy. Even if Clare doesn't sell well the first few seasons, they can still sell Givenchy by Tisci inspired hoodies that are cheap to produce with big margins as long as the brand image is maintain.

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Celine existed well before Philo and it will continue on after.

I think what Philo mastered at Celine is what they've always done: bourgeois classics with a slight modern touch. Yes , she did design more adventurous, more directional items, but the bulk of the business was striped shirts, trench coats, tailored trousers and ballet flats.

What Philo brought, and what will be difficult to replace, is her considerable experience, her aesthetic fearlessness, her innate understanding of what a regular woman needs to get through the day and a immense sense of trust among the clientele.

There are few designers who can bring that.

I heard Jacquemus already has the job. I look forward to how he will build on the house's bourgeois codes given his own penchant for updating and distorting French classics. My only concern is that he is not master of detail, something that helped Philo's quiet clothes shout. He seems to design for a larger, more immediate impact, and not the intimate effects of fabric on skin or the weight of the collar on the collarbone or the angle of pocket on a pant. He'll have to embrace this subtlety if wants to keep the Celine customer. I recommend he surround himself with smart women.

All said, I think he has the talent and vision to sustain the brand, push it into a new and successful direction and make a strong, memorable mark all his own.

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Source: Refinery29.com, taken from his Insta stories.

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https://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-...-working/48269 Hmm...?

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19-01-2018
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Heard something new that Simon's new job might actually be somewhere else.

Starts with an L.

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Heard something new that Simon's new job might actually be somewhere else.

Starts with an L.
He had such a promising career, too bad...at least he got to live the dream for a couple seasons.

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Heard something new that Simon's new job might actually be somewhere else.

Starts with an L.
Wow. If you're talking about the L I think you are, why would he do it?

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So jw is as expected to be?

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Wow. If you're talking about the L I think you are, why would he do it?
And I'm thinking of the same one! Could it be? They've only just hired Lapidus? Actually, wouldn't put it past Madame Wang to hire and fire someone so fast over the media fiasco which ensued. And anyway, always wanted Jacquemus at Lanvin as I think he'd be perfect there.

But who will be at Celine then......

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I don't know what to think about it. Is it even possible for him to go to that L. since he's really close to LVMH? And if it's true, is he going to close his namesake brand?
And for Céline I have the fear that they'll go for some C-list copycat.

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Or maybe Loewe? Odd if this is true!

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I don't know what to think about it. Is it even possible for him to go to that L. since he's really close to LVMH? And if it's true, is he going to close his namesake brand?
And for Céline I have the fear that they'll go for some C-list copycat.
Someone told me that Karl has been literally talking about him to everyone on how he finds him good. Given that he is close to the Arnault and that Delphine Arnault is really the one who has the eye for fashion among all the suits there, it's possible.

JW contract at LOEWE is supposed to be renewed this year. I can totally see it happen. LOEWE is not up to Celine or Givenchy in terms of sales and everything. It's still pretty niche. I can see JW at Celine and SPJ at Loewe.

One thing is that i don't believe that it would have been possible for him to out himself in such a random way. It's LVMH after all and Phoebe or whoever at this point are still creative director of their respective fashion houses.

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^ But importantly, he didn't say anything about where. Hey, it could be a Target collaboration for all we know (OK, I don't think it's Target.)

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21-01-2018
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Funny to see how this one played out!

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