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22-02-2005
  76
etre soi-meme
 
Lena's Avatar
 
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here from wwd of today:

Quote:
Prada: No one throws down the fashion gauntlet like Miuccia Prada. In her show on Monday, she thrust it and then stomped on it with her first look out: a black slip dress as austere as could be, save for the smallest edge of lace at the hem. An unequivocal return to minimalism from the woman who spearheaded the embellishment madness of the last several years.

Or was it? After the show, Prada said she wanted to “go back to more simple clothes,” with fewer frills and sans that now-familiar aura of romantic escapism. In fact, her shift toward the sturdy began for spring, and here she wanted something even “more serious, more deep, more human, more strong.” And darker, literally and figuratively; hence her reembrace of black, and apparent alignment with New York’s sober faction, specifically Marc Jacobs, who went Gorey-esque to great fanfare, and Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley, who took a frillier approach.

Unlike those two, however, Prada at first appeared to flaunt stark minimalism. After the slipdress came a sculpted black dress and suit, dressmaker seaming their only decoration. She moved from black to camel and back with the same restraint, until in crept a glimmer of deco, quietly spectacular — a yoke of jet beading on a fitted black coat. This led the way to increasing embellishment of the fashion oxymoron kind, low-key yet obvious. Where once Prada might have chosen crystals or a dance of mirrors, she now inserted countless grommets into a coat. In place of formerly delicate embroideries she opted for heavy passementerie trim. This went two ways: fabulous in black on dark colors; art-school awkward in high-contrast combos, especially those doily-decorated, droopy-boob variations. Not so the garment-dyed pieces, stark white bursting forth from beneath collars and inside pleats in a brilliant expression of graceful reserve. Throughout, Prada steadfastly avoided fluff. As close as it came for day was with retro-looking bags, some emblazoned with the house logo, and a series of breathtaking dark printed coats in intriguing moody colors — girly with a dash of woe. At night, however, Miss Woebegone lightened up in the high-impact dazzle of a jewel-encrusted chemise.

Give or take a patchwork leather or two, Prada offered a wealth of gorgeous clothes. It’s a lineup that should give her stores a decidedly fresh look come fall. Despite the inventive bravura of the spring collection, retail is looking a little tchotchkied-up, all that robot gadgetry in serious cohabitation with peacock feathers. Which makes this collection difficult to review: beautiful clothes, seemingly more salable than the most extreme renderings of spring’s aviary theatrics. And beautiful, wearable clothes are what fashion is about. Except that, at Prada, it’s also about the bold, visionary thesis. One had the feeling that Prada longed to make such a definitive argument for fall, but then hedged, due, perhaps, to pragmatism or uncertainty. And that’s not something that happens often.

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22-02-2005
  77
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After seeing it all at www.style.com I must say that I quite like it. The details on some of the coats are exquisite. But I read in the style.com review that Miuccia stated that it is a return to sort of minimalism, but that is must not be dark-mooded at all times! But I think that some of the stuff is very darkmooded actually and a bit sad. But I think that is due to making looks completely black. Look at a piece singlely and it is not dark or sad at all...

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22-02-2005
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Looking fine and wearable - though nothing ground-breaking "just" very Prada-ly striking

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22-02-2005
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I love this. cant wait to see more

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22-02-2005
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it is sad to hear she said:"To go back to something structured, strong and womanly, to strip back the ""stupid"" frills, print and decoration", while her current summer collection is full of frills, print and decoration...is the word "stupid" too strong?


Last edited by amchan; 22-02-2005 at 10:12 AM.
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22-02-2005
  81
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Very nice! I usually like Prada and I like this. I even like what I can see of the shoes, and I always hate the shoes. But I don't this collection represents a step forward, or backwards, or a step in any particular direction, really; it all looks like typical Prada to me.

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22-02-2005
  82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amchan
it is sad to hear she said:"To go back to something structured, strong and womanly, to strip back the ""stupid"" frills, print and decoration", while her current summer collection is full of frills, print and decoration...is the word "stupid" too strong?
Isn't it also commercial suicide?! Isn't she basically saying, "my current collection is rubbish, just wait till winter", or is it all just part of fashion's big commercial juggernaught?

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22-02-2005
  83
spoilt victorian child
 
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^Maybe most of her clients already paid for their Spring/Summer orders :p

That isn't an unusual thing for designers to do, though; in their eagerness to articulate that they've done something new, they end up dissing the collection that's hanging in stores as they speak. Halfway through last season, you started to hear designers deriding the whole "ladylike" thing when they'd created it a few months earlier.

In any case, there probably won't be any lasting consequences for Prada. You just know that those peacock feathers will still be in every issue of every fashion magazine on the face of the earth for the next few months. And you just know that people are still going to buy them...no matter how stupid La Miuccia thinks they are now


Last edited by droogist; 22-02-2005 at 10:59 AM.
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22-02-2005
  84
etre soi-meme
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amchan
it is sad to hear she said:"To go back to something structured, strong and womanly, to strip back the ""stupid"" frills, print and decoration", while her current summer collection is full of frills, print and decoration...is the word "stupid" too strong?
so true amchan...
i think she's basically influenced by the current 'tight' economic situation and like everyone else -at the moment- she's looking drawn to 'safer' looks and easy commercial success..
it is very understandable due to the current stagnation of the industry, but a bit boring -and dangerous- in my opinion

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22-02-2005
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having just read the style.com review of the show, im left wondering: is this supposed to be minimalism for the new boho?? not one of her best, IMO...


Last edited by arlekindearrabal; 22-02-2005 at 12:12 PM.
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22-02-2005
  86
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It doesn't excite me thoroughly, but it's a nice collection with some gorgeous pieces, some of the detail is fantastic.

I just feel that it lacks character in compare to her last few collections - saying that though her last few have been kitchy, but I enjoyed them more, just my two cents.

I really like this though.


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22-02-2005
  87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metal-on-metal
I agree. It just goes to show that good design in the 21st century is not about silly gimmicks or 'irony' or overblown ideas and egos. It's about the rendering of a simplistic style and attitude that has at its center an honest desire to make men and women look and feel their best.
Well said!

I like this collection.

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22-02-2005
  88
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I can`t believe it! I just deceided "to dislike Prada forever" and now she comes up with something GREAT!

I can totally relate to the clothes!

I`m so glad this "bulgarian farmer girl look" is over!

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22-02-2005
  89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lena
obviously.. i agree with acid, looks like this last coat posted could do with some more skilled sewing ...
what exactly is so wrong with the coat that it needs to be sewn better??

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22-02-2005
  90
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i think that the clothes look a lot better off the catwalk, in the backstage photos, than on:





this is an amazing collection, and such a strong statement...personally, i adore it... i just think it'll take some time for the majority of you to appreciate it.

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