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15-02-2012
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At first I saw the all white looks and thought it was rather bland, but as it progressed the fabrics and wonderful cuts and textures won me over i would totally wear those oversize bombers and jackets.

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15-02-2012
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Loved this collection! Great showing from them; one of their strongest in a while.

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15-02-2012
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This is a great collection from them. I absolutely love how they used their inspirations in an abstract way, yet you can still see it clearly.

I feel like there's a really concise look here, there's nothing superfluous about any of this, nothing that sort of meanders through stuff. Those oversized tops with the sharp little skirts, the big jackets, the angular dresses at the end, the kimono baseball jackets...it all just looks cool and fresh.

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15-02-2012
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Slouchy oversize Samurai. A strong collection but I'm surprised nobody mentioned the B word yet

Can anybody please help me with what pre-fall collections are supposed to be for? I mean J&L's pre-fall was all about functionalism inspired by mountain climbing but it seems to bear no resemblance at all to the actual fall collection here. Can you really alter what you want to produce so dramatically in the space of a few weeks? Or perhaps I'm missing something. Can anyone see any link or common thread between their pre-fall and their fall?

Aha - maybe this - protection, combat; a link between war and sports.
Those opening looks maybe evoke Judo. Although I always thought mixing white and cream a sartorial faux pas. Mountain climbing = conquest of nature, sort of a sport but not really. Judo/martial arts = conquering the Other, sort of a sport but not really. Sports. Armour. The East.

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15-02-2012
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I didn't know Balenciaga was showing in New York, good 4 Ghesquiere...

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15-02-2012
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If you said this is Balenciaga, I told you that Proenza is doing a better Balenciaga than Nicholas.

Proenza has his own style, and it's hatd to do it, but they did, totally Proenza, bad *** girls, oriental without being literal, totally in love, good for Lazaro and Jack!

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15-02-2012
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Yeah I'd hate to point fingers but this is very Balenciaga, but this is absolutely amazing. The cuts and the shapes are extremely fresh, especially for New York. The little folding skirts are so sharp and edgy.

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15-02-2012
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I cannot imagine that NYC will offer a better collection than this. This is perfection. It's chic, cool, different, and wearable. It's not boring at all. So many statement pieces that will look great in a lot of different places ! LOVE IT !

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15-02-2012
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They've definitely been taking some inspiration from Balenciaga, but I still like it. I especially like the skirts. I think they're gorgeous!

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15-02-2012
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This collection is GREAT, simply gorgeous.....it is one of the best I've seen from NYFW hands down, one of the best from PS, but it owes a lot to past seasons' Celine and Balenciaga, the materials, the cut, the shapes, etc...just giving due credit.

Can I point out the irony that when NG showed the original Balenciaga collection over a year ago it was hated?


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15-02-2012
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Ok...
We have new potential successors:
• Oscar de la Renta for CHANEL
• Lazaro and Jack for Balenciaga
• Marc Jacobs for Galliano or Dior (nice try) not sure.

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15-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post

Can I point out the irony that when NG showed the original Balenciaga collection over a year ago it was hated?
Yeah that's because he's Nicolas Ghesquire, and we've all seen waaay better work from him. These guys...

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15-02-2012
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I adore this collection, well-done!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pradable View Post
Ok...
We have new potential successors:
• Oscar de la Renta for CHANEL
• Lazaro and Jack for Balenciaga
• Marc Jacobs for Galliano or Dior (nice try) not sure.
Don't forget Prabal Gurung for Givenchy.

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15-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
Yeah that's because he's Nicolas Ghesquire, and we've all seen waaay better work from him. These guys...

Hmmm...I loved it when NG showed it for Balenciaga, it was a tougher, edgier but new and original collection, and was shown on a lot of those fashion week editors/models street fashion blogs. It goes to show that NG is the driver of directions and providing the original inspiration, but it takes several seasons before his vision filters down to the more mainstream designers who re-interprete to make it more palatable. Sure when you experiment, there will be some duds, but it comes with the territory when you take risks every season. I applaud that, as how many designers will put their necks on the block instead of presenting "safe", "distilled" and "inspired by" collections? What would fashion do without NG?

Actually, it saddens me as a lot of new talent just couldn't make it when they offered new concepts, and young designers prefer to stay with tried and true formulas...I'm reminded of Paulo Melim Andressen (sp?) for Chloe vs the duo for Valentino. In fact, it was the first Chloe by PMA that started this edgier, boxier, leather and collage direction. Too early perhaps, tragically. I bought a couple of pieces at a great discount at that time, and they fit in well with the Balenciagas today.


Last edited by Zazie; 15-02-2012 at 10:35 PM.
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15-02-2012
  30
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^ Regarding your first point- that's one of the reasons why I always wait before I decide, "I don't like this collection" from Balenciaga, even though it's really not my cup of tea, because I know Nicolas Ghesquiere is one of the few who's going to take risks and make clothes that aren't targeted to the average fashion-y customer. But then loads of designers will take cues from him and put out nice collections, and in the end I can't hate.

It may be too early to say this, but so far, this is hands down my favorite collection from NY. I'm loving all that asymmetricality going on, don't know if that's even a word, but you know what I mean. Also loving all that chinoiserie, done in a such a less cheesy way than Jason Wu, and how they manage to keep giving out school girl vibes that I adore so much.

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