Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2012 - Page 2 - the Fashion Spot
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Not Plain Jane's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Gender: femme
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I like that rich green crinkle fabric too.

Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
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Join Date: May 2009
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by Mark Holgate

If you had to essentialize what is terrific—and, to be honest, quite charming —about Proenza Schouler, this would be it. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough can talk you through pre-fall, and say in that offhand way of theirs, of a gorgeous quilted navy collarless coat, one zippered and banded with black, worn over a black nylon taffeta skirt and classic black early 60s spindly pumps, “We were just at Mount Everest, and we were looking at the sleeping bags they use in the Himalayas, so this collection has a lot of quilting. But we’re making it chic . . . and all that stuff.” And there you have it: an airy, light, almost goofy casualness about their creative process, that totally belies just how great their clothes end up being—and the kind of quiet yet deadly serious intent that they bring to the proceedings while they work on them.

Of course, Proenza Schouler’s vista of the world just got a lot larger than that from the top of a legendary mountain this past year. About six months ago they hooked up with Andrew Rosen (the fashion business whiz behind Theory and Rag & Bone), meaning plans for global expansion are no doubt busily being plotted. And if they commence putting that scheme into action, then a collection that is a virtual primer of all that Hernandez and McCollough do so well—which is to say, a kind of pristine, punked-up ladylike mode of dressing, sparked with plenty of sporty athletic detailing—is the way to go.

Given that the guys had just scaled Everest, those references were as carefully placed as a clamp on a rock face, so they didn’t look overdone—rip-cord drawstrings at the neck and waist of the dresses, or belts fashioned out of climbing rope. Elsewhere, they rendered the tweeds that have become their trademark in brilliant (in both senses of the word) color (vivid orange, emerald green) for looser-cut, round-shouldered coats and jackets, worn with tapered pants and nylon shirts. And there was a cool new sporty variant for evening, what they called “mountain jacquard” in that same green or deep purple-blue, for skirts that wrap round the body like bath towels, worn with either a bra top or a chunky sweater. Hernandez and McCollough showed how simple it was to wrap and unwrap that skirt, as quick as the Velcro fastenings on a mountaineering parka. But here, like everything else, it was evident just how much work had gone into these clothes to make them look that good, that easy, and that effortless.

By Nicole Phelps

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough's recent trek through the Himalayas rubbed off on their pre-fall collection. We can see the magazine photo shoots now: Proenza Schouler girl on the side of a mountain in a nylon and mesh color-blocked shirtdress with bungee cord detailing, and on her feet, rubber-tipped pumps.

As sporty and technical as their reference points were—tweed jackets modeled after mountaineering parkas, button-downs made from windbreaker nylon, quilted coats that took cues from sleeping bags—the collection was quite polished. Here's another good example: The silk jacquard of a matching bustier top and skirt was an aerial view of mountains that they pulled from Google Earth, but looked like it could've been crushed velvet. The Velcro closure on the wrap skirt kept the tech-y couture motif going.

Riffing on house classics is a proven method for the ten-year-old brand. This season's take on their signature bustier baby-doll dress comes with a performance mesh shell and a bungee cord drawstring below the bust. It has starlet-on-the-rise written all over it. Their New York cohort, on the other hand, will be pleased to see their tweedy lady jackets in bright shades of coral and emerald green, as well as a handbag offering in iguana leather, a luxe new material for them that's pricier than python but not quite in crocodile territory.

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2012, prefall, proenza, schouler
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