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14-09-2011
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Proenza Schouler S/S 2012 New York


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14-09-2011
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I loveeee this collection! Proenza are always one of my favourites.

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14-09-2011
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14-09-2011
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That was quick work AgrenateD. Well done. I'm not sure the NowFashion images quite do the collection justice. Although I did have the impression it improved as it went on, that the opening to middle was a bit shaky. So looking forward to the stills of the rest of it. Lots going on though. Is this their best work yet? Perhaps not.

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14-09-2011
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last part




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14-09-2011
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My favorite collection so far, so pretty. I love the use of leather, they made it look more light than i would expect it.

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14-09-2011
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highly upsetting, as a lot of the cuts make the outfits look kinda frumpy. most of it looks uninspired. nothing will ever top fw10 for me so i don't know what to expect anymore

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14-09-2011
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Yes, I've still a bit of a puzzled frown about this. The skirt length in #9 is pretty rad. I don't have a problem with it save if that's a view you have about skirtlengths why have just one - develop the idea. Otherwise it feels too random. Same for the mesh skirt that followed.

I think the floral section that closed is perhaps the strongest phase. What isn't apparent from these stills is that the fabric is slightly sheer and has a bit of sparkle in it. I liked the leather with it but, whilst I'm not a stickler for seasonality, it is fairly impossible to wear leather gloves in the height of summer. Unless you're a hardcore fetishist. But maybe that's the point.

I do think that doing this prim -v- pervy aesthetic can be a treacherous balancing act. It can come out a bit sexy secretary. Maybe that was part of the subtext of those early prints that were ambiguously somewhere between tiger and wood (Tiger Woods - get it) (J&L's passing nod to the sport thing but through the prism of infidelity - naughty sports). The Proenza girl for sure ain't a wife. She has a bit of lady about her but most likely she's a mistress. Always uptown and in control though, something of modern day femme fatale. The dated terminology kind of fits the nature of the looks? Although it does still work on a younger woman in her 20's. One who likes older men perhaps. Rich famous uptown ones.


Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 14-09-2011 at 09:55 PM.
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14-09-2011
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Some pieces reminded me of Amish women or Puritans, something very restrained. Then it all of a sudden became mildly wild as if these women had a run in with native Americans and took bits and pieces of their wardrobe and mixed it.

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14-09-2011
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Back on the sexy secretary point. The casting. Imagine if you cast say Jac, Abbey Lee, Enikho, etc - a Versace type cast. There'd be a risk you'd sex it up too far. So instead girls of the ilk of Jamie Bochert, a cast that FHM readers wouldn't get at all. In doing that, in seeing the risk and managing accordingly, it tells you something about the looks in and of themselves - there's a risk they might come across too sexy secretary.

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14-09-2011
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LOVEEE
Always fresh and young, a really love the classic clothes with this modern twist, the fabrics, the prints, the shapes everything is so new and unexpected, PS the best of NY till now.

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14-09-2011
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Nooooo, I don't like any of this!

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14-09-2011
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In one word: uneven.

The second half is undoubtedly stronger than the first, which was terrible, but even the second half is not that great. It's a few steps back from their recent collections, especially that stunning work they did for SS11.

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15-09-2011
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It is a continuation of what they were doing from 2004- 2008. Its a bit jarring because they were moving in another direction in the last couple years, but this is very much in the vein of the proenza I fell in love with and I think its fantastic.

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15-09-2011
  15
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These guys are awfully overrated. I've never understood their work. What they do now seems to be what DVN and Marni have already done. I've still yet to locate an identity for this label.

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