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11-09-2013
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I quite like this and I think it's a big step up from last season's collection. This looks sleek, urban, and interesting.

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11-09-2013
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The skirts with metallic treatment reminds me of old Martin Margiela. (Yahoo Auctions Japan)

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11-09-2013
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What makes this collection for me is the fact that it is incredibly wearable. There isn't a single look I see that I couldn't imagine being worn by a well dressed woman on the streets of New York / Paris / Tokyo / Hong Kong. Sometimes in the theatricality of fashion the fact that real people (most of whom don't have a team of personal stylists assisting them) have to actually wear the clothing is lost in the ether. This is very much rooted in reality and I think that the best of NYFW tends to be.

On an aesthetic note I'm dying to know what those metal breastplates are made of, how heavy they are and if they will go into production.


Speaking of which - the accessories this time around were just stellar. That bar clutch, that little hard case clutch as well - I feel like these could double as weapons and that only makes me love them more.

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12-09-2013
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Actually the fact that it looks so wearable ON the runway is what bothers me a bit.. I mean each season it's the same hair, same makeup.. Yes these girls seem to have walked in from the streets or can go out like this, the clothes are very well made (and yes there are some really good pieces, I love the "jupe culotte" like pants) but there's never any fantasy or real part taken in their storyline. I feel like they play it too safe..

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12-09-2013
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In some ways, the real preview of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s spring collection was in June with resort, their testing ground for new runway material. At the time, it was impossible to tell how the designers would crystallize a few new ideas they were playing with — neutrals, sunburst accordion pleats and a first attempt at draping — into this vision of calm, natural order.

A tranquil purity pervaded the runway as the designers channeled the chic subtlety that made their fall show so spectacular, in a very different direction. They worked under the influence of West Coast midcentury furniture designers and Arte Povera, the late Sixties movement based on simplicity and nature — two defining principles of this collection, particularly in the daywear. With a palette skewed earthy in shades of cream, navy, clay and yellow, Hernandez and McCollough’s opening silhouettes combined lean structure with rich materials (such as suede and crepe) that moved gracefully. Nothing was stiff. An ecru cotton crepe dress with a high neck and long, slim sleeves cut a clean line, and featured six precisely placed silver turnlocks on the chest. Every detail was measured but made to feel organic, such as the cotton crepe jackets and midlength culottes printed to look like the seams had been traced in paint strokes.

The cropped shirt-and-pleated-skirt combination introduced for resort was a highlight of the show. Now freed from the lovely-yet-commercial restraints of the pre-season, the languid silhouette shone as printed cloque dresses with shiny crisscross tops and accordion-pleated skirts that released into mixes of copper lamé, black and white. Slinky silk knit variations of the silhouette, here with long sleeves, were equally bewitching.

Source: wwd.com

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12-09-2013
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I love this so much!

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12-09-2013
  37
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This collection kind of looks like what Rodarte should've looked.

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12-09-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LolaSvelt View Post
This collection kind of looks like what Rodarte should've looked.
OMG! I opened this thread to say EXACTLY that!
There were some interesting pieces and it was a good collection, but still a very boring one.

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Last edited by VogueDisciple93; 12-09-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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12-09-2013
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Very safe collection. Actually expected something a little more daring this season.
Don't like the beginning, but the collection improved towards the end. The pleating on the dresses and skirts looks lovely.

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13-09-2013
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It wasn't what I was expecting from them, but I was pleasently surprised. It remided me of their early collections with certain a nonchallenging elegance. I absolutely loved how they played with silhouette this season. Structure on the top and volume on the bottom. Brilliant cut on those pants, they looked amazing in movement. Some mean coats here also, particularly love the one on Josephine. I think they definitely captured this ease of the season but still presented strong pieces. Each season they're getting more and more mature and precise.

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16-09-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rqfsimons View Post

The skirts with metallic treatment reminds me of old Martin Margiela. (Yahoo Auctions Japan)
that's precisely what i was thinking about too. that foil treatment was certainly something distinct to MM's work. even that sort of painted effect they gave in that one portion immediately made me think of MM. the pleats were also kind of reminiscent of branquinho....so it's probably why i think it's one of their best ones.

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