How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
08-05-2005
  16
backstage pass
 
birdofparadise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 846
A great continuation of the previous season, beautiful outerwear. In hindsight, Raf was certainly a serious contributor to the renaissance menswear is having right this moment.

__________________
"Menswear is so limited so I'm free with my ideas. Otherwise I'd die of boredom."--Miuccia Prada
  Reply With Quote
 
08-05-2005
  17
V.I.P.
 
faust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New York City
Posts: 10,312
Quote:
Originally Posted by baklanyc
Yeah, I wonder which collection all the skinny Raf suits faust keeps talking about are in. The proportions here all all so voluminous. Hedi has been consistently slim and skinny since his YSL Rive Gauche days, so I can see how he gets credit for popularizing it: Hedi's vision is so strictly adhered to. Raf, on the other hand, has some wonderful themes he revisits again and again (short outerwear over long being a recurrent one), but he really experiemmtns more with silhouette.
Almost each and every one of them. It's a staple. They won't always be on the runway, but they will certainly be produced.

  Reply With Quote
08-05-2005
  18
V.I.P.
 
faust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New York City
Posts: 10,312
Quote:
Originally Posted by birdofparadise
A great continuation of the previous season, beautiful outerwear. In hindsight, Raf was certainly a serious contributor to the renaissance menswear is having right this moment.
You think so? Hmm, I tend to think that Raf, despite being successful is always on his own and out of tune with fashion. So, while his success has certainly paralleled the "renaissance", I don't think he has any part of it. Maybe I'm not sure what renaissance you are thinking about. I think menswear has become more sellable because of the metrosexualisation (forgive the term), which came from the late clothing obsession of public in general. Maybe I'm wrong. I would love to hear more from you, though.

  Reply With Quote
08-05-2005
  19
backstage pass
 
birdofparadise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 846
There certainly has been an attempt by media and certainly by the beauty industry to make a go at what they call metrosexuals, sensing a viable market, trying to make money off the fluidity of sexuality.

Menswear over the past few years should be noted for its slow shrugging off of the overt and in some ways dictated sense of sexuality most markets are trying to capitalize on. It's not a true renaissance in terms of real solid innovation but I don't think innovation is always valid in fashion (there are but so many good ways to make a pair of pants). Most interesting is the infusion of seemingly fresh ideas, a sort of championing of rigor, and real sense of design enshrouded within and respective to a designer's aesthetic.

It's a gauntlet womenswear is trying to pick up on...thus the newfound sobriety of F/W 05.

Simons is certainly part of the upswing because he has always upheld the romanticism of menswear--the idea of god being in the details, a seemingly understated but very complicated execution of tailoring and for his clothes being about the clothes and being about what's going on in the world and not about the wearer's sex life per se. His sensitivity and strive toward modernity set him apart and make his contributions meaningful, particularly in his collections for this season and the next. But it was certainly in those earlier collections where you can see the stepping stones to his current relevance much in the same way that you see the outlines of Slimane's current success at Dior through his undervalued collections for YSL.

Raf very well may be out of tune with fashion...but menswear is slowly but surely taking that very direction itself, developing its own core set of values, if you will, becoming its own monster, trying to seperate itself from the perceived vanity and hunger for unreliable and false senses of security through luxury that womenswear relies on.

__________________
"Menswear is so limited so I'm free with my ideas. Otherwise I'd die of boredom."--Miuccia Prada
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
2002, f or w, menswear, raf, simons
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:15 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. 2014 All rights reserved.