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06-07-2004
  16
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Lena's Avatar
 
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i can see your point datura, i think you are right

here extracts from the NYT article of today,
Raf is such a darling of the -hyped- Press
Quote:
Few journalists were more aware of the danger of observation than Joseph Roth. "The `good observer,' " he wrote in 1925, soon after arriving here from Berlin, "is the sorriest reporter. He meets everything with open but inflexible eyes." In his reports in the Frankfurter Zeitung and in his novels, Roth, who died of alcohol poisoning in May 1939, at age 44, perceived that the world was continually changing: "In the space of a single second, everything can be transformed a thousand times over, disfigured, rendered unrecognizable." At most, he argued, a journalist can say how an experience felt to him. Because by the time he has set down his impressions, "the realities have grown out of the tight clothes we've put them in."

Roth's feelings sometimes overwhelmed his reporting. But wherever people strive to do more than what is expected of them (and very often we are content with less), don't they deserve our strongest emotions?

On Saturday, I almost skipped Raf Simons's show. It was far away and very late. And I had already begun to put my ducks in a row: Louis Vuitton (English flannels, cricket sweaters, silk pajamas — or "Brideshead Revisited" on a commercial level); Dries van Noten (Prince Harry on a pub and country-house crawl, with fab kilts); Junya Watanabe (potential potheads in Alpine hats and plaids lurking amid the edelweiss).

What Mr. Simons did in an instant was to render the day, and most of the previous one of the spring men's collections, obsolete. In 18 years of reporting on fashion, the last 5 at this post, I have stood up from only a handful of shows with a conviction that everything had been transformed. And I don't know why it is that out of a generation of so-called visionaries, only a few have Mr. Simons's capacity to deal with the future in a believable way. I don't want to see any more flabby impressions of the 1970's or hear them described as "ironic." And I don't want to go to "another country," because that country doesn't exist anymore.

Beginning with the skinny suits that made his reputation nearly a decade ago and made a Hedi Slimane possible, Mr. Simons gave a real glimpse of the future — heightened by the solemn descent of the models on an escalator and the music of Vangelis. To silky sport shirts he added trousers in a glacier-white leather that looked otherworldly, while chunky white sneakers were an ingenious blend of N.E.R.D. and NASA. In the fabrics, in the modern proportions — in the way a slim leather tunic resembled a T-shirt or a white nylon raincoat floated over a suit — it was evident that Mr. Simons was trying to work out fashion's next passage.

In the past, Mr. Simons, who is 36, used his clothes as social commentary, and he was startlingly prescient on the fear of terrorism. But he is no longer the reactionary. On his invitation was a random list of people and things that changed the world: sign language, Rosa Parks, the drinking straw, Taliesin West, Alan Turing, who cracked the Enigma code and hastened the end of World War II. Can a fashion designer make such a difference? Mr. Simons is bold to think so.

"I've always focused on my own history, my own evolution," he said as he was greeted with cheers backstage. "But now I want to think about the future." Last year, the Swiss Textile Federation awarded Mr. Simons a $120,000 prize. He should have a Swiss bank.


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06-07-2004
  17
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faust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New York City
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lena@Jul 6th, 2004 - 2:43 am
i can see your point datura, i think you are right

here extracts from the NYT article of today,
Raf is such a darling of the -hyped- Press
Quote:
Few journalists were more aware of the danger of observation than Joseph Roth. "The `good observer,' " he wrote in 1925, soon after arriving here from Berlin, "is the sorriest reporter. He meets everything with open but inflexible eyes." In his reports in the Frankfurter Zeitung and in his novels, Roth, who died of alcohol poisoning in May 1939, at age 44, perceived that the world was continually changing: "In the space of a single second, everything can be transformed a thousand times over, disfigured, rendered unrecognizable." At most, he argued, a journalist can say how an experience felt to him. Because by the time he has set down his impressions, "the realities have grown out of the tight clothes we've put them in."

Roth's feelings sometimes overwhelmed his reporting. But wherever people strive to do more than what is expected of them (and very often we are content with less), don't they deserve our strongest emotions?

On Saturday, I almost skipped Raf Simons's show. It was far away and very late. And I had already begun to put my ducks in a row: Louis Vuitton (English flannels, cricket sweaters, silk pajamas — or "Brideshead Revisited" on a commercial level); Dries van Noten (Prince Harry on a pub and country-house crawl, with fab kilts); Junya Watanabe (potential potheads in Alpine hats and plaids lurking amid the edelweiss).

What Mr. Simons did in an instant was to render the day, and most of the previous one of the spring men's collections, obsolete. In 18 years of reporting on fashion, the last 5 at this post, I have stood up from only a handful of shows with a conviction that everything had been transformed. And I don't know why it is that out of a generation of so-called visionaries, only a few have Mr. Simons's capacity to deal with the future in a believable way. I don't want to see any more flabby impressions of the 1970's or hear them described as "ironic." And I don't want to go to "another country," because that country doesn't exist anymore.

Beginning with the skinny suits that made his reputation nearly a decade ago and made a Hedi Slimane possible, Mr. Simons gave a real glimpse of the future — heightened by the solemn descent of the models on an escalator and the music of Vangelis. To silky sport shirts he added trousers in a glacier-white leather that looked otherworldly, while chunky white sneakers were an ingenious blend of N.E.R.D. and NASA. In the fabrics, in the modern proportions — in the way a slim leather tunic resembled a T-shirt or a white nylon raincoat floated over a suit — it was evident that Mr. Simons was trying to work out fashion's next passage.

In the past, Mr. Simons, who is 36, used his clothes as social commentary, and he was startlingly prescient on the fear of terrorism. But he is no longer the reactionary. On his invitation was a random list of people and things that changed the world: sign language, Rosa Parks, the drinking straw, Taliesin West, Alan Turing, who cracked the Enigma code and hastened the end of World War II. Can a fashion designer make such a difference? Mr. Simons is bold to think so.

"I've always focused on my own history, my own evolution," he said as he was greeted with cheers backstage. "But now I want to think about the future." Last year, the Swiss Textile Federation awarded Mr. Simons a $120,000 prize. He should have a Swiss bank.

aaah, beat me to the article! I must say, I think the "hype" does not come (or at least did not originate)from the media itself, but is a result of Raf's talent as a designer (witness the numerous awards from different industry institutions, as well as lecturing positions). After all, Raf does not design for a big conglomerate, neither is he a celebrity dresser. So, I don't think this is the type of "hype" that Galliano or Lagerfeld gets. I think the "hype" has allowed Raf to explore (by staying financially secure), and I must say that he got away with pretty unwearable and bad collections since he came back from the sabbatical. I wish the same "hype" would surround Jurgi Persoons, who went down, and Hussein Chalayan - who never seems to stay financially secure.

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06-07-2004
  18
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Yurgi Persoons
i find him so much more talented than Raf

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06-07-2004
  19
scenester
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
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i just thought i'd put in what diane pernet wrote on the themes explored in this collection. its from www.disciplefilms.com and i'm not sure if it was in the press release.
"the references were to cosmonuts, scientists, mathmatical geniuses and the first black woman that refused to go to the back of the bus in America."
may be it's just my imagination but all these are united by the act of breaking in, discovering and euriking!!! generally. i like the collection even the scuba pant that i hate seems to fit in - isn't it used to make breaking into the water less painful and exploring the deep waters more easily.
thank god for this forum and take good care all of you! such a source of inspiration this threads are.

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06-07-2004
  20
scenester
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
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oh and i don't think hiphop-baggy-scater is overdone. i see people wearing it on the street all the time. and if they like it any variation is a welcome, i think.
well may be it's coz i wear it a lot.

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06-07-2004
  21
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I finally got to see the entire collection and it was a major major dissapointment. I feel let down.

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07-07-2004
  22
ɐʎ ʎǝɥ
 
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i only like the 1st piece and the grey suit. Man those skinny leather pants make one look like a knight! I wouldnt wear them even if i was paid to¬

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08-07-2004
  23
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I love Raf
however I prefer his youth/punk style. He has done tayloring in the past but i was still a bti surprised, its very 'techy' for him, but is till think its veyr intresting and it makes a stroung statment, wihc is veyr veyr important to me

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08-07-2004
  24
arndom
 
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Close-ups:-) from hintmag.com













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16-07-2004
  25
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Raf is always incredible. I understand the criticisms presented here but he is one designer that no one can taint in my mind. After spring/summer 2002 and that powerful terrorism collection, I really believe he can do no wrong. His collections are always prescient, always powerful, and always beautiful.

Here we have another great show. I'm soooooo tired of references to the past, be it the 80's, the 70's, the 50's, the 20's. WHATEVER. It's so overdone and so boring. What interests me now is designers who are able to synthesize a truly modern, futuristic look. Karl Lagerfeld does it at Fendi. Helmut Lang does it. So does Junya. And Raf does it here to great effect. A stunning collection that leaves every other spring mens show in the dust.

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16-07-2004
  26
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Quote:
Originally posted by chickonspeed@Jul 16 2004, 08:39 PM
Raf is always incredible. I understand the criticisms presented here but he is one designer that no one can taint in my mind. After spring/summer 2002 and that powerful terrorism collection, I really believe he can do no wrong. His collections are always prescient, always powerful, and always beautiful.

Here we have another great show. I'm soooooo tired of references to the past, be it the 80's, the 70's, the 50's, the 20's. WHATEVER. It's so overdone and so boring. What interests me now is designers who are able to synthesize a truly modern, futuristic look. Karl Lagerfeld does it at Fendi. Helmut Lang does it. So does Junya. And Raf does it here to great effect. A stunning collection that leaves every other spring mens show in the dust.
[snapback]312022[/snapback]
great review 2002 was incredible

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17-07-2004
  27
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this jacket detail is breath taking, the detail in tailoring wow

thanks for the close ups ngth :punk:

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17-07-2004
  28
Stitch:the Hand
 
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When I look at this,it brings to mind the same boring trends in menswear right now--parkas,hooded sweatshirts,t'shirts with graphic motifs. Frankly,I'm sick of seeing all of this repeatedly and would have expected something more than just a play with homogenised trends.
I admire what Raf does,but usually he has a way of twisting these influences from youth culture into refreshing imagery.

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18-07-2004
  29
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hey guys i think the collection was nice and complete

see some of my pics here piczz

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18-07-2004
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boy you have the coolest avatar ,
welcome to tFS
thanks for the link you are very talented

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