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11-09-2011
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Lee MG Tisci's Avatar
 
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12-09-2011
  47
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David Neville and Marcus Wainwright's vision for SS12 is all about the styling - cross-functional editorialism, leisure clashed against formality, looks of contradiction with no particular place to be.

Thus a royal blue blazer, whose piped contrast edging and apparent texture evokes a Chanel boucle (in #6 she gives a nod to bikerjacketism too), teamed with a white chiffon shirttop casual at her bateau neck, formal at her mannish shirt tail hemline under which a bandeau and spaghetti halter bikini in tangerine neoprene, forms a look whose contradictory themes have an antecedent - Prada's SS10 'business to beach' collection.

Miuccia explained that collection as being for the way we live today. Of course not everyone enjoys a life without functional sartorial boundaries. Should you have chosen to spend your time within the confines of a bank, school, lawfirm or library you are probably not at liberty Monday to Friday 9 to 5 to show a meshtop and a bikini under your suit. And, welded to the perpetual hamsterwheel of conventional time-space-function memes, you're unlikely to have the lifespace to be able to imagine doing so any place, any time. You could pickout a piece here and a piece there - a jacket for the office, a bikini for the beach. But that would be to miss the point - entirely.

David and Marcus played slightly wider than just the business-beach mash up. Since 2010 we've had the lady deconstructed movement (Kane, Proenza Schouler, Fendi). And this season we're a lot about the urban and the sports reference. Hence tropes of 'lady' formality - a dress probably twee on it's own - undercut with something street casual - a jogging bottom. Occasionwear vs sports/streetwear.

And if you can't initially imagine where you might possibly self-style ie a hoodie shirtdress with a boyfriend blazer perhaps, when you reflect that it could be because you're sartorially imprisoned within the confines of functional expectation: the linear determinism of role-place-dress; the idea of contradictory looks, living without boundaries, cross-functional/non-functional dressing might grow on you too.



image - opening look Prada SS10 courtesy of Style.com

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12-09-2011
  48
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Not impressed by this, I used to like the brand but the recent collections don't appeal to me. And the styling was just bad.

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13-09-2011
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wow, I'm disappointed! I usually really look forward to Rag and Bone, but I just don't get this at all...

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18-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agee View Post
I don't dislike it, I like several of the looks and in particular the hood flowy thingees and the overall athletic vibe, but I agree that it is unfocused and at times seemed like an assemblage of looks sent down a runway which I am not always so harsh about if it is the result of inexperience or enthusiasm, but here it comes off as if the budget for models and/or the soundtrack drove the number of looks and editing and coherence were afterthoughts.

this look
I stand by my original assessment but I do think that this is one of the better collections of NYFW.

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27-09-2011
  51
windowshopping
 
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Few snapshots backstage. Take with a Canon 5D MarkII on monochrome setting.

Photos by Brian Dowling (me)





























Last edited by bridow; 27-09-2011 at 01:10 PM.
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