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27-05-2010
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Mr. Magic
 
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May 26, 2010, 8:24 am
Giles Deacon and Ungaro
By CATHY HORYN

Ungaro may seem “a poisoned chalice,” as one of my fashion sisters in England called the Paris house, but this is an industry that dauntlessly recovers from bad taste. If my count is accurate, Giles Deacon is now the sixth ready-to-wear designer at Ungaro in the past decade (and I’m not counting the very brief and strange Lindsay Lohan episode). That’s a lot of designers trying to give a modern look to a label known for prints and a zesty femininity.

Mr. Deacon is well liked and reasonably well known in England, where he started his business in 2003, and his clothes have a quirky elegance. But many young-uns have busted out since then and the world keeps changing daily. Fashion folks point to the success of Balenciaga and Balmain — very different businesses but examples nonetheless of old houses that have been re-energized.

And certainly Balmain in the post-Oscar de la Renta era had hit a real slide before Christophe Decarnin took over. Ungaro seems to have ample fashion legacy. It has a fancy Paris address. Above all, it has a name. Now let’s see what Mr. Deacon can do with these elements. He will have the help of his friend Katie Grand, the stylist and editor.
nytimes.com

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28-05-2010
  287
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Originally Posted by FashionPower View Post
Oh I remember that menswear collection
What do you guys think about Alessandra Facchinetti for Ungaro?She hasn't got a decent job from ages
I think Alessandra deserves better..

The last thing I'd want to see is her getting fired from yet ANOTHER post, so she should stay far away from Ungaro at the moment.. its a revolving door..

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01-09-2010
  288
Mr. Magic
 
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EXCLUSIVE! Giles spills on Ungaro!

Grazia Daily
had the pleasure of catching up with the lovely Giles Deacon this morning at a brunch to celebrate the launch of the 11th GOLD by Giles collection for New Look (check back on the site tomorrow, for the full lowdown). Naturally, though, as well as talking about his collaboration with the high street store, we also got him to exclusively spill the beans on his highly-anticipated debut collection for Ungaro.

It’s been impossible to think of Ungaro recently without thinking about Lindsay Lohan’s disastrous tenure as Artistic Director for the brand, when she famously worked alongside Estrella Archs for one season in 2009, producing a collection that is best remembered for the inclusion of heart-shaped nipple tassels.

Giles took over at Ungaro after Lohan and Archs’ departures, which in many ways was the climax of five unsettled years at the Parisian couture house following Emanuel Ungaro’s retirement in 2005. His appointment was greeted with much approval, partly because everyone LOVES Giles, and partly because his unapologetically feminine style is the perfect modern update of Emanuel Ungaro's own.

And clearly no one is more excited than Mr Deacon himself. ‘Ungaro is one of the last three Houses on the Avenue Montaigne’ [the premier address for high fashion in Paris] ‘and I felt I wanted to bring back this feeling of vivaciousness, of Frenchness, of really sexy clothing that’s got that Ungaro thing about it’.

Sounds good to us. And Giles will not be dealing with the task of reviving the beleaguered couture house alone. He has 'a good team on board and a great factory,' and just as thrillingly, he is also continuing his long-term collaboration with uber-stylist (and his former girlfriend); Katie Grand, who he claims is 'involved in it as well’.

He also said that he hoped his collection for Ungaro would bring back a ‘quality...which I think it had kind of lost - for lots of reasons that have gone on over the last five years that we’re all very aware of. And amused by in various cases’.

The name Lindsay Lohan still hangs around the label of Ungaro like a bad celebrity fragrance, so did Giles find any trace of her at Ungaro HQ? An unfinished sketch for a SCRAM bracelet cover, perhaps? ‘I didn’t find one, no!’ he told us. ‘No hair extensions, no!’

Asked whether his appointment at Ungaro would have come about at all had Lindsay still had her role as Artistic Director, Giles charmingly replied by saying ‘I think there would have been some conflicting interests, between myself and Lindsay’.
Giles said that the inspiration behind his first collection had come in part from the Ungaro archive, telling us that ‘they [Ungaro] have got an amazing photographic, fabric and collection archive so I’ve spent quite a bit of time getting my head into all of that’ He explained that there are ‘some amazing pieces’ as well as ‘some hysterical pieces’.

Obviously, we asked him what his favourite piece in the archive was, and he told us that ‘there were some really beautiful cut dresses that were made exquisitely by the atelier. Beaded lace numbers, which look very, very simple, but they’re all made out of one piece. The work on them is incredible. Some of the pieces were, he said, from ‘the early 90’s’ and some ‘from mister Ungaro’s last collection which was in about 2002’.

So does this mean we can expect lots of lace from Giles at Ungaro? Well, ‘there’s all of the Ungaro staples’ he promises, which will be ‘reinterpreted in a kind of modern Giles way’. Yay!

Giles shows his debut collection for Ungaro in Paris on Monday 4th October. Of course we’ll be there, so check back here then for our review of his debut collection for the label.

- Alex Butt
graziadaily

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01-09-2010
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omg Giles actually sounds very hopeful

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03-09-2010
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I'm excited. I haven't been into fashion long enough to remember Giambattista Valli at Ungaro, and so don't remember a good collection from the House.
So excited for Giles!

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03-09-2010
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Mr. Magic
 
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The New York Times T Style Women's Fall 2010
'The Fall of the House of Ungaro'
by Cathy Horyn




nytimes.com


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03-09-2010
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What a sad article. I feel sorry for Asim, but I suppose it's partially his fault. I really want to see what Deacon can do this upcoming season, it's going to be exciting.

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03-09-2010
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I'm definitely curious to see where the house will go now that Giles is involved and Moufarrige is gone.

Now the only thing missing is an interview with Ungaro himself. He's been pretty much silent about the house since he retired, no?

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04-09-2010
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Estrella Archs is a talented designer and is NOT AT ALL to be blamed for the Londsay Lohan disaster. I'm looking forward to seeing her future collections under her own name. I'm keeping an open mind, but IMO, she is a much better fit than Giles Deacon, who has sent down some very unlikeable collections in recent memory.


Last edited by Zazie; 04-09-2010 at 03:42 AM.
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04-09-2010
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i'm nbot usually a fan of giles, but this venture certainly holds promise!@!! i can;t wait for the show!!! such a historical house is a gold mine for ideas. but then again, after all the failed designer ventures, it wouldn;t take much for giles to turn everything around.

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05-09-2010
  296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
Estrella Archs is a talented designer and is NOT AT ALL to be blamed for the Londsay Lohan disaster. I'm looking forward to seeing her future collections under her own name. I'm keeping an open mind, but IMO, she is a much better fit than Giles Deacon, who has sent down some very unlikeable collections in recent memory.
her last collection for the house of ungaro -- without the presence of lindsay lohan, mind you -- did not speak to her great talents or she'd still be there. also, i don't think she has the star power and name recognition as someone like giles deacon.

i'm convinced that no matter what giles deacon puts on the runway for ungaro, it will meet a measure of critical success because of his trememdous talent. one just wonders how financially successful a brand as tarnished as ungaro can become in an economic environment like this. hopefully, with giles, we'll have another celine or pucci on our hands.

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15-09-2011
  297
Mr. Magic
 
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Ungaro, Giles Deacon to Part Ways

http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/desi...ert/20110915-4


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15-09-2011
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^ This is old news. And Ungaro has been sold to someone else who is hiring a new designer.....again. Yeesh. 156th time lucky?

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15-09-2011
  299
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this is news to me...

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15-09-2011
  300
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He left after only two seasons? At this point it is getting ridiculous, so I think it would be better if they just put the brand to rest. As much as it pains kme and as much as I loved Ungaro himself, the brand is an utter mess.

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