The revolving door at Emanuel Ungaro (please put all Ungaro news here) - Page 9 - the Fashion Spot
 
How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
23-07-2009
  121
Meg
inspired contemplation
 
Meg's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: London by way of North America
Gender: femme
Posts: 17,064
Well Ungaro has always been a difficult sell. I think that their advertising has always been lacklustre. It occupies that sort of netherregion between Versace and Gaultier and the advertising has never been able to create an Ungaro niche. But they have produced some nice things. I don't think a celeb is the way to go but.....

  Reply With Quote
23-07-2009
  122
army of lovers
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: lazytown usa
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,438
They should have kept Giambattista.

  Reply With Quote
23-07-2009
  123
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
mikeijames's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: closer than you think.
Gender: homme
Posts: 5,900
who's next....kimora lee? honestly, this type of revolving door diminishes this brand to its lowest ebb....

__________________
everything is never quite enough.
  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  124
The future is stupid
 
MissMagAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 25,611
source | wwd.com






Quote:
Ungaro Taps Lindsay Lohan, Archs

PARIS — Meet the “Seam Girls.”

In an unusual move to jump-start what has been a sluggish brand rejuvenation, Emanuel Ungaro has tapped an almost unknown chief designer — Estrella Archs — and an “artistic adviser” who is arguably too well-known — Lindsay Lohan.

The Spanish designer and the actress/singer/tabloid sensation are slated to present their first collection in Paris on Oct. 4, likely coming out together at the end of the runway for a bow.

Mounir Moufarrige, Ungaro’s chief executive officer, is already relishing the prospect of that image running in newspapers and on Web sites around the world, bringing a lightning bolt of attention — good, bad or otherwise — to a French brand that has severely lacked it as it endured a revolving door of designers and lackluster collections.

“Odds are it could work,” Moufarrige said, disclosing the appointments exclusively to WWD. “Everything we’re going to get is going to be a plus. I think the noise level around Lindsay will be very, very big.”

Indeed, a Google search for the star of “Mean Girls” and “Freaky Friday” yields more than 26 million results, versus only 1.3 million for Ungaro, a couture house founded in 1965 that has been wracked by instability in the design department since its founding couturier retired in 2004.

Last July, Ungaro said it would part ways with Bogotá, Colombia-born Esteban Cortazar, whose three collections for the house failed to ignite much commercial or press interest in the brand. As reported, the designer had reached an impasse with Ungaro management over its future marketing strategy, which would involve a celebrity face.

Peter Dundas, who is now the designer at Emilio Pucci; Vincent Darré, now devoted to a signature furniture line, and Giambattista Valli, pursuing a signature label with Italy’s Mariella Burani Fashion Group, came before Cortazar as Ungaro designers.

For her part, Lohan, 23, told WWD she hopes to take Ungaro to a “younger place” with a harder fashion edge.

“When I’m involved in a project, I give my all to it,” the controversial celebrity said. “I feel like there’s a correlation between everything I do, whether it’s pop music or film. I’ve always played a big part in what I wear, the costumes. Clothing is something that’s so expressive in so many ways. It really interests me.

“To be in a position where I’m working with a fashion house in Paris sets it apart from every other celebrity brand.”

Lohan said her first fur coat was an Ungaro, which she purchased about 10 years ago. She prized its leopard spots and a pale pink lining that gave it its je ne sais quoi.

Asked to describe her role in the creative process, Lohan said she “kind of oversees everything [Archs] does, while working with her. Different generations have different ideas.”

Archs, too, was up-front about potential discord, asking: “Have you ever met two women who agree completely about fashion?”

Lohan said Ungaro has stood for provocation and chic “since Day One,” descriptors to which she can certainly relate. “Every woman wants to be sexy — without being too much,” she said. “I want it to be simple and easy. I really think less is more — and you can add on more with accessories.”

Meanwhile, she took fashion to task for being too retro and me-too. “Everyone copies everyone. I don’t want it to be about that. The reason I love fashion is it’s ever-changing; there’s something new all the time.”

In addition to her new role at Ungaro, Lohan said she has two more days of shooting for “Machete,” an ensemble thriller also starring Robert De Niro and Jessica Alba. “It’s really exciting to be back into film with so many wonderful people where I can learn so much,” she said.

Moufarrige contended he had a choice of two strategies for Ungaro: Attempting to catapult the brand’s fortunes via a proven, superstar designer à la Tom Ford at enormous expense, or pursue a more radical route — teaming a chief designer and a fashion-obsessed, if volatile, celebrity. He contends the days of “designers in their ivory towers” are over, and the input of Lohan — the ultimate fashion girl — will lend a “consumer” voice to the mix that is vital today.

“Designer-led fashion is likely not to be enough. It’s a slow process going the traditional route,” he said, describing the need to give a designer several years to get under the skin of a house and, hopefully, get the business moving. “Not enough just doesn’t get you anywhere.”

What’s more, “Consumers today know what they want, and they have an eye as well,” the executive continued. “The consumer really is key today. They know what’s going on; they’re following the trends.”

The advent of celebrity fashion lines, some of which generate hundreds of millions of dollars in sales, proves celebrities capture the imagination of consumers and “designer-led brands have competition they didn’t have before,” Moufarrige said.

“My target consumer for Ungaro is the woman of perpetual 30, and I think the combination of these two girls will greatly contribute to burnishing a great name, which is Ungaro,” he added.

Seated in his sun-drenched office on the Avenue Montaigne, a breeze tinkling a chandelier overhead, Moufarrige acknowledged Lohan has a controversial image, given her stints in rehab, drunk-driving citations and a widely publicized love affair with Samantha Ronson. But he plunks down the September British Elle and Spanish Vogue’s August issue, which both feature Lohan on the cover and in fashion spreads inside, as testimony to her international stature and enduring fashion allure.

He also noted Lohan’s line of leggings, labeled 6126, are performing well at retail.

“The fashion industry thrives on controversy anyway,” he said, waving a hand as if to dispel doubts. “Emanuel Ungaro himself was very controversial. He always felt women had to dress to seduce. His first perfume he called Diva. It’s not an act of desperation to get a real diva involved. I like controversy.

“She does have an eye,” continued Moufarrige, a veteran executive at Compagnie Financière Richemont, who famously replaced Karl Lagerfeld with Stella McCartney, then age 25, as head designer of Chloé in 1997. “I like the way [Lohan] dresses. Her house [in Los Angeles] is a mini-department store. She changes outfits five times a day.”

Lohan signed a multiyear contract with Ungaro. Although financial terms were not disclosed, it calls for her to do trunk shows, make appearances and “be where the activities of the brand are,” according to Moufarrige.

One thing Lohan won’t do is appear in Ungaro advertising. “I’ve got a moving advertising campaign through Lindsay,” Moufarrige enthused. “She’s a super consumer, and it’s a new idea. She’s photographed thousands of times a week.”

Ungaro plans to eventually launch an attention-getting print campaign without Lohan, but the company plans to await reaction to the first show and to expand distribution before making significant investments.

As for Archs, 35, Moufarrige said he was attracted by her two-year-old signature collection, which she shows on the runway during Paris Fashion Week and sells to a handful of specialty stores in Europe and the Middle East. “She has a lot of fluidity and a lot of color, and it’s easy to wear,” he said. “She was spot-on in terms of the DNA of Ungaro.”

Born in Barcelona, Archs studied fashion at Central Saint Martins in London before going on to design for such brands as Nina Ricci, Cacharel, Hussein Chalayan, Emilio Pucci and Prada.

“I like to think of my style as pure and light, but very sexy,” Archs said in an interview between fittings. “The reality of women is they all naturally want to be sexy.”

Archs first met Lohan at the end of June and said, “We get along really well. I think she’s fun. She has an eye for fashion. She’s very enthusiastic. She’s very much for the youth, for the sexiness.” The two women have subsequently met several times in Los Angeles, London and Paris to ready the spring-summer 2010 line.

Archs declined to give too many clues about the first collection, to be shown at the Carrousel du Louvre, saying only, “It’s not too much couture.”

Lohan and Archs will be charged with waking up a brand whose women’s ready-to-wear business is described by Moufarrige as “stagnant,” sold to only about 75 stores worldwide. “We should be at 300,” he asserted.

Indeed, the brand is a far cry from its peak in the late Nineties, when the bridge line Emanuel by Emanuel Ungaro, licensed to Italy’s GFT, generated some $170 million at wholesale. Launched in 1991, Emanuel was conceived for the U.S. market and was hailed as GFT’s most profitable division.

Ungaro has changed hands in the interim. Salvatore Ferragamo, which purchased the house from the founding couturier in 1996, sold it to high-tech entrepreneur Asim Abdullah in 2005. Moufarrige took the management helm in 2006, after investing in Worth Group and shepherding brands including leather goods powerhouse Goyard and watch firm U-Boat.

Ungaro remains loss making, but Moufarrige described the men’s business, while small, as “doing well.” Since 2007, that department has been headed by Franck Boclet, a former designer of Francesco Smalto.

Another bright spot for the brand is U by Ungaro, a women’s diffusion line licensed to Itochu in Japan. It rang up $9 million at wholesale with rtw last year, while handbags and small leather goods generated another $19 million via 23 shop-in-shops. Handbags under that label retail at around $370. Distribution will soon be expanded into China, Moufarrige noted.

The U by Ungaro fragrance launched by Avon is also going strong, with market sources pegging sales last year at about $50 million. The Emanuel Ungaro brand has an existing fragrance license with Ferragamo Parfums, a partnership that began in 1997.

Ungaro declined to give projections for the rtw line by Archs and Lohan, but Moufarrige noted that the first Chloé collection by McCartney pushed sales up fourfold. “If we go fourfold, I would not be surprised,” he asserted. “This is an electric shock.”

__________________
Love is what you want


Last edited by MissMagAddict; 09-09-2009 at 01:00 AM.
  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  125
frozen
 
kimair's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Francisco
Gender: femme
Posts: 14,626
OMFG...

__________________
j'adore couture (life in fashion and in print)
  Reply With Quote
 
09-09-2009
  126
Meg
inspired contemplation
 
Meg's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: London by way of North America
Gender: femme
Posts: 17,064
I can't even read the whole article because it's too depressing. What year are they living in that they think Lindsay Lohan is at all a desirable name to attach to Ungaro? Or that she will have any valuable input? Or that she will even show up sober? Cortazar got out at the right time. Can you imagine your working for someone who thinks that Lindsay Lohan is a dependable, valuable and reliable employee?


Last edited by Meg; 09-09-2009 at 01:24 AM.
  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  127
Amour Comme Hiver
 
KhaoticKharma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 5,396


You have got to be kidding me. La Lohan? I mean, I guess it's nice that they're trying to establish a sort of aesthetic... whatever that aesthetic may be.

__________________
"I say, let's have happy clothes. You could reply that's frivolous in this troubled world, but do you really think dressing like an existential nun with suicidal thoughts is going to solve Bosnia?"

  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  128
Looking Up
 
Squizree's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Gender: homme
Posts: 18,545
Just when everyone thought Ungaro couldn't get any cheaper. I hope the label fails miserabley and goes bankrupt. It'll show those hooligans that you can't just attach any famous old name to give something a kick.

I feel sorry for the original designer the most, he MUST be attempting suicide right about now.

  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  129
tfs star
 
waxy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Kabuki Empire
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,713
... the end of Ungaro is happening quite soon.

  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  130
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Gender: femme
Posts: 4,108
i predict a lot of leggings lol which i abhor lol

  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  131
V.I.P.
 
MulletProof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 25,909
I don't mind Lohan, she's just.. there, but men like Moufarrige are an insult to the industry.. it would be comfortable to say he's crazy old and can't read current society at all but he's clearly just one greedy pig. I never liked Cortazar either but I'm sure he must enjoying a nice sense of freedom right now..

  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  132
V.I.P.
 
FashionPower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Glamorama
Gender: homme
Posts: 9,499
You know what duo would be amazing for the house now?
Paris and LiLo
The brand would get SO MUCH publicity,which is apparently what they're looking for

__________________
Between style and fashion?ABSOLUTELY FASHION!
  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  133
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
mikeijames's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: closer than you think.
Gender: homme
Posts: 5,900
honestly, while i believe ungaro's management has put the house into a tailspin, i cannot judge a work product before its presented. also, if the successes of alexander wang, phi, christopher kane, givenchy, balmain, and emilio pucci serve as any indication -- not to mention the acceptance of brands like william rast into the fashion firmament -- this sort of party girl incarnation might have wings. also, it's clear they're going in that direction given archs work history.

also, as much as everyone rags on lindsay lohan, she's no worse off than any other starlet before a come back. i mean, she didn't shave her head or date dennis rodman or anything. also, if she's willing to make public appearances for the brand around the world, she'll pay for her contract in press alone. throw in her dj girlfriend and its a party i'd attend....

__________________
everything is never quite enough.
  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  134
fashion icon
 
Starry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Gender: homme
Posts: 3,315
This really scares me!
I think it's time they close the house.

  Reply With Quote
09-09-2009
  135
V.I.P.
 
honeycombchild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: England
Gender: homme
Posts: 8,210
I'm sort of just...speechless about that move.

Suppose we'll see what it's like come October 4th..

  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
door, emanuel, news, revolving, ungaro
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:42 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2018 All rights reserved.