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23-06-2011
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IloveDiorHomme's Avatar
 
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Not sure about the sunglasses

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23-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuel View Post
Men look great in skirts, and as mentioned, in many parts of the world, it's a non-issue. But in this particular case-- this show, I think it's extremely feminine; from the styling (very fitted single-button cropped blazer with flared sleeves, worn over a long shirt that peeks out like a skirt under the blazer, and paired with tights and some cyber version of Uggs), to the casting (most of these guys are extremely androgynous in their appearance, even if they were wearing "traditional" men's suits).

I don't have issues with Owen's aesthetic as I'm not a fan of his designs overall. But, it's refreshing to see him his take on dresses and skirts-- for men. But it is very feminine, in a traditional sense. Nothing wrong with that, but I think anyone would be kidding themselves if they deny the femininity in Owen's presentation here.
Really? I really thought quite the opposite. I think in this collection Owens has successfully bridged the gap between skirts/dresses and men. He's successfully done for men what was done for women more than a half century ago with pants. I mean of course with the exception with some pieces, like that flowing nude dress.

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24-06-2011
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But the lines are great I think.

And there should be no talks about "skirts for men ???". Fashion is supposed to be progressive. 99%o of the mens collection are pointless, boring, repetitive and unattractive. When designers don't do "nomade chic " ( Haider for means, Damir Doma, Boris Bidjan Saberi ) , Italian macho looks or Parisian chic ones, then it's interesting. Rick Owens is one of those designers who pushes the design forward every season.

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24-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
Really? I really thought quite the opposite. I think in this collection Owens has successfully bridged the gap between skirts/dresses and men. He's successfully done for men what was done for women more than a half century ago with pants. I mean of course with the exception with some pieces, like that flowing nude dress.
I suspect you're looking through the lens of the rarified world of high fashion when you claim Owens has done for men with skirts/dress what time has done for women half a century ago with pants. (I think Gaultier has done a better job in that sense than Owens.) These looks are still way too extreme and conceptual, and strongly feminine for most men to accept. And I don't mean this in a negative manner. But as a fashion idea, I think he wants this feminine silhouette out there as a challenge: That instead of casting buffed macho models with a swagger and chest and facial hair, his men are young willowy guys, most with long hair, in what is considered a woman's silhouette can, but they're still men. Just because I consider the visuals feminine, doesn't mean I would emasculate the wearer. Perhaps that's his point as well.

Ultimately, these are still very extreme high fashion proposals. I don't see these designs in a practical, or utilitarian sensibility at all, in that these designs won't serve the real world the way pants on women did, because I don't think women adopted pants because they were bored of wearing dressed and skirts-- it was more for practical reasons.

I can't see Owens' designs as practical, so I'm confused by your high praise for him as a revolutionary.

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24-06-2011
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omg this is RI DI CU LOUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Look at this, each model, each piece, each centimeter of clothes refers to woman. I can't bear that, this is just uninspired : if he has nothing else to show, he should just present a woman collection and that's all. I feel insulted when i see that, as mens fashion should make them looking like women as much as possible.

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24-06-2011
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In the simplest terms a lot of these gowns remind me of Islamic dress I see some men wear on my commute to work. Nothing shocking or out of the ordinary. So none of it frightens me or has me questioning where "fashion" has gone. When everything is said and done it is a well put together collection for Rick Owens even if I am still not a fan of his blazers/tailoring pieces.


Last edited by Desi; 24-06-2011 at 01:05 PM.
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24-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuel View Post
I suspect you're looking through the lens of the rarified world of high fashion when you claim Owens has done for men with skirts/dress what time has done for women half a century ago with pants. (I think Gaultier has done a better job in that sense than Owens.) These looks are still way too extreme and conceptual, and strongly feminine for most men to accept. And I don't mean this in a negative manner. But as a fashion idea, I think he wants this feminine silhouette out there as a challenge: That instead of casting buffed macho models with a swagger and chest and facial hair, his men are young willowy guys, most with long hair, in what is considered a woman's silhouette can, but they're still men. Just because I consider the visuals feminine, doesn't mean I would emasculate the wearer. Perhaps that's his point as well.

Ultimately, these are still very extreme high fashion proposals. I don't see these designs in a practical, or utilitarian sensibility at all, in that these designs won't serve the real world the way pants on women did, because I don't think women adopted pants because they were bored of wearing dressed and skirts-- it was more for practical reasons.

I can't see Owens' designs as practical, so I'm confused by your high praise for him as a revolutionary.
This is probably the point I missed. Pants for women arose out of need and practicality. This is perhaps why skirts will take forever to be assimilated into the man's wardrobe.

Quote:
I can't see Owens' designs as practical, so I'm confused by your high praise for him as a revolutionary.
Well when I first saw it I thought the majority of the pieces were rather suitable. The mid-long pieces actually look really practical over pants. The longer pieces, while they look a bit rigid and lack leg room (which I kinda like), are actually very reminiscent of Eastern style (middle east, parts of the Mediterranean and east Asia) where they do in fact have dresses for men. So in some ways this is practical. If Owens DOES manage to translate this to the Western world then I would consider it revolutionary.

But that being said, I agree that a lot of the pieces are too conceptual. It's like too much of a jump. Men would need to slowly get used to this kind of length.

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24-06-2011
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Squizree: No need to wait for Owens to be the savior for introducing men to skirts currently. Just take a peek at the new Yohji men's: This, I think, is how one introduces men to wear skirts. It doesn't feel forced, or conceptual; it just looks right. I love it.

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24-06-2011
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^I second that.

Aside from the hard to wear skirts and sack dresses, I love everything though. The tailored austerity mixes well with the hard edged sportiness and the palette is great. I'm still a sucker for Mr. Owens

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25-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuel View Post
Squizree: No need to wait for Owens to be the savior for introducing men to skirts currently. Just take a peek at the new Yohji men's: This, I think, is how one introduces men to wear skirts. It doesn't feel forced, or conceptual; it just looks right. I love it.
I was JUST about to come here and post a pic of one of Yohji's skirts from S/S 2012. Totally agree, they look much more...relaxed and feasible.

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25-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margielamike2004 View Post
Brilliant collection. I had a feeling Rick would jump onto the skirts-for-men idea. I truly don't see much femininity in this collection...quite the contrary...it's more masculine. None of the men are wearing a long frilly skirt in shades of pink...they're wearing very neutral colors and a more somber palette...why is typicly what the majority of men wear.
I wholeheartedly agree. There is NOTHING feminine on this collection. The skirts are long and roomy. The colors are dark. And the materials are crisp.
Androgynous I'll take, but feminine, never!

Leave it to Rick Owens to do a pitch perfect grunge collection. He plays with the proportions of the clothes and some of those "dresses" look like extremely elongated shirts (and if it wasnt because of the colors and materials, you would even could compare it to dashikis).

He took a risk with the shapes but played it safe with the colors and materials. If I could only afford his clothes, I could finally walk out the street wearing a skirt.

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25-06-2011
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Now, THIS is a viewpoint.

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25-06-2011
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this is pushing man-skirts too far. Last seasons short skits over pants, were actually pretty masculine, but too many pieces in this collection are like women dresses. But then again, I could see women buying a lot of this stuff.

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25-06-2011
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Desi, good point. Practicality at its finest.

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25-06-2011
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in paris everytone has there on style but if i ever saw a male wearing a dress i would vomit

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