Rodarte F/W 09.10 New York - Page 14

rox_yr_sox · 19-02-2009

^ that's a bit random

FASHIONLOVA · 19-02-2009

it s either they lack marketing skills or they only care about a certain group of women who will like that silhouette and it would fit them. it sure isn t everybody s cup of tea and as designers they should broaden their horizons a bit more in order to have more clientele.
this collection seems to be one of a graduating fashion student who still has a lot to learn from the real fashion world

**MulletProof** · 19-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronmangsat

we were bored during christmas so we decided to do a "photoshoot"

so bad it's amazing.

Inaya · 19-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by dior_couture1245

To be honest, I just don't think this whole "Rodarte is so one note" argument is called for.

I agree, 100% with you. Thanks for the visual aid

I think there is a clear progression. I don't think they're too strongly influenced by anyone - and I don't think that their work is shabby in any way... i love the rawness mixed with the fantasy element. their attention to detail and the compositions they create within each garment are really something special. Their stuff might not always be my cup of tea but I truly support them and I think the path they're on is a good one.

jegg · 19-02-2009

By CATHY HOYRN
Published: February 19, 2009

Destruction is an interesting motif for fashion. The scratched and crumbling textures of Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s dresses for Rodarte evoke toppled walls, broken concrete or shattered glass. The sisters from Pasadena, Calif., seem to have a thing for horror.

They are good not so much in conceiving a look for a fashion collection as in responding to their impulses. You sense that the Mulleavys literally feel their way through a collection, touching the fabrics, carefully dyeing them and making tender collages from the bits that attract them. There are some remarkable assemblages in their new line, shown Tuesday: marbleized leather, flashes of silver and green, smoky wisps of black yarn, most mounted on nearly invisible chiffon so as to appear dissolving.

These pieces, which take the shape of tunics and miniskirts worn with shaggy wool cardigans, have the quality of artifacts. As a counterweight, the sisters offered tough black leather, including motorcycle jackets with many straps around the body and arms, as though girded for battle. And the models wore over-the-knee boots that were lashed to the top with leather ties. Not an easy fashion to exit.

It’s baffling to hear people say that the Rodarte clothes are full of emotion when in fact they are emotionless. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. Over the last 30 years a number of designers have tried to evoke a cold, mechanistic world — few more eloquently than Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela. More recently Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga has used materials to suggest robots.

So, are the Mulleavys adding anything to the fashion of destruction that couldn’t be said more simply and profoundly with a widow’s black dress (to recall Ms. Kawakubo’s famous show in the ’90s)? The answer is no. If the sisters are seriously engaged by this sensibility — and it isn’t clear that they are — they need to get under the surface. All those scarred fabrics are essentially ornament; the underlying shapes don’t change much, and they’re not interesting. Indeed you wonder if they are bored or intimidated by the actual mechanics of design — cutting, setting a sleeve — and that what their clothes express isn’t technical virtuosity but inarticulateness.

nytimes.com

dior_couture1245 · 19-02-2009

^^Thank you for posting that.

I've done some thinking...while I really do like this collection, I think it is time for Laura and Kate to move on from this apocalyptic stage. I know, I know...you all probably think I'm a hypocrite because I've been defending them so passionately in previous posts, but what I'm realizing my problem with this collection is that I wanted this it to develop something totally new for them. The trilogy was fantastic, wonderful and so memorable. Up until this point, I feel as though they truly have been moving onward and upward. While I certainly don't consider this collection a step down, I do think it was more of a plateau.

I love Rodarte, and their progression from their first SS 06 collection up to this point is both radical and, yet somehow, rather natural. I don't expect to, or even care to see them take huge steps upward from one season to the next (I like it when they play with their ideas over the course of a season or two), but I do want them to at least move around a little bit.

irulan · 19-02-2009

Cathy Horyn is only human. I don't agree with her at any of her points.
What frustrates me is all those double standards people are applying to young designers, especially the Mulleavys.
Everybody applaudes radicalism when it's done by a big name. Breaking all the rules of fashion, ladida, how ground-breaking.
But no, the Mulleavys must stick to the rules, have to construct a sleeve.
To claim that their clothing is emotionless is downright ridiculous.

rip_ian curtis · 19-02-2009

nice, but the actual collection we will see in stores. they can't sell only dresses.

dior_couture1245 · 19-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by irulan

Cathy Horyn is only human. I don't agree with her at any of her points.
What frustrates me is all those double standards people are applying to young designers, especially the Mulleavys.
Everybody applaudes radicalism when it's done by a big name. Breaking all the rules of fashion, ladida, how ground-breaking.
But no, the Mulleavys must stick to the rules, have to construct a sleeve.
To claim that their clothing is emotionless is downright ridiculous.

I do agree that some of her comments were really harsh...epsecially the last sentence.

Quote:

Indeed you wonder if they are bored or intimidated by the actual mechanics of design — cutting, setting a sleeve — and that what their clothes express isn’t technical virtuosity but inarticulateness.

I usually agree with Cathy, but not so much with this review...

**Scott** · 19-02-2009

i completely agree irulan....i was so shocked to read that about the emotion factor....i think they carry immense emotion in their work as a whole and in this collection. i mean the moody combinations of material,textures....they must have been getting that from somewhere.

Caffeine · 19-02-2009

"Indeed you wonder if they are bored or intimidated by the actual mechanics of design — cutting, setting a sleeve — and that what their clothes express isn’t technical virtuosity but inarticulateness." - extremely well said. If they make this kind of clothes for one season, that's one thing. Making clothes without any change on the structure or even the silhouette is another. I'm bored and even a little annoyed.

fashionista-ta · 19-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott

i completely agree irulan....i was so shocked to read that about the emotion factor....i think they carry immense emotion in their work as a whole and in this collection. i mean the moody combinations of material,textures....they must have been getting that from somewhere.

It's interesting that she never considers the possibility that others are right and that she simply isn't connecting with the emotion ...

fashionista-ta · 19-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott

^if it ain't broke don't fix it,indeed. but i disagree this isn't fresh though. to me this show is proving a more evolved direction for them. of course they haven't lost that esoteric spirit in the previous collections but i think they're really refining the knitting skills here and utilising more materials in their textiles. and the silhouette somehow looks stronger as well.

Yes, the knits are by far my favorite part. I'd love to have a skirt ...

Gainsbourg · 19-02-2009

The pieces look so crazy and futuristic in a good way I like it

**Scott** · 19-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by fashionista-ta

It's interesting that she never considers the possibility that others are right and that she simply isn't connecting with the emotion ...

i know. i usually adore cathy's writing and i tend to agree with her for the most part. but that is by far the most outlandish thing i've seen her write....ever.

and the equation she made with robots....all i can say to that is...even cylons can have feelings

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19-02-2009	196
rox_yr_sox less is more Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: australia Gender: femme Posts: 2,404	^ that's a bit random __________________ [my scans][beauty lies in the eye and machine for living in] [my tumblr][life is short art is long] [tfs 50 book challenge][reading: cleopatra the great by joann fletcher][completed: 27]

19-02-2009	197
FASHIONLOVA V.I.P. Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Babyland Gender: femme Posts: 5,375	it s either they lack marketing skills or they only care about a certain group of women who will like that silhouette and it would fit them. it sure isn t everybody s cup of tea and as designers they should broaden their horizons a bit more in order to have more clientele. this collection seems to be one of a graduating fashion student who still has a lot to learn from the real fashion world __________________ Stars Are Not Born, They Are Styled Be Careful What U Wish For Cuz U Just Might Get It

19-02-2009	201
dior_couture1245 Fat Karl Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NY Gender: homme Posts: 6,276	^^Thank you for posting that. I've done some thinking...while I really do like this collection, I think it is time for Laura and Kate to move on from this apocalyptic stage. I know, I know...you all probably think I'm a hypocrite because I've been defending them so passionately in previous posts, but what I'm realizing my problem with this collection is that I wanted this it to develop something totally new for them. The trilogy was fantastic, wonderful and so memorable. Up until this point, I feel as though they truly have been moving onward and upward. While I certainly don't consider this collection a step down, I do think it was more of a plateau. I love Rodarte, and their progression from their first SS 06 collection up to this point is both radical and, yet somehow, rather natural. I don't expect to, or even care to see them take huge steps upward from one season to the next (I like it when they play with their ideas over the course of a season or two), but I do want them to at least move around a little bit. __________________ "DIOR, NOT WAR!"

19-02-2009	202
irulan Plain Ol' Beautiful Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: London Gender: femme Posts: 1,483	Cathy Horyn is only human. I don't agree with her at any of her points. What frustrates me is all those double standards people are applying to young designers, especially the Mulleavys. Everybody applaudes radicalism when it's done by a big name. Breaking all the rules of fashion, ladida, how ground-breaking. But no, the Mulleavys must stick to the rules, have to construct a sleeve. To claim that their clothing is emotionless is downright ridiculous. __________________ I'm an ice queen, I’m the Sun King, I’m an alien fleeing from District 9 and I’m a dominatrix. So I reckon that makes me a lukewarm royalty with a whip from outer space.

19-02-2009	200
jegg rising star Join Date: Apr 2005 Gender: homme Posts: 115	By CATHY HOYRN Published: February 19, 2009 Destruction is an interesting motif for fashion. The scratched and crumbling textures of Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s dresses for Rodarte evoke toppled walls, broken concrete or shattered glass. The sisters from Pasadena, Calif., seem to have a thing for horror. They are good not so much in conceiving a look for a fashion collection as in responding to their impulses. You sense that the Mulleavys literally feel their way through a collection, touching the fabrics, carefully dyeing them and making tender collages from the bits that attract them. There are some remarkable assemblages in their new line, shown Tuesday: marbleized leather, flashes of silver and green, smoky wisps of black yarn, most mounted on nearly invisible chiffon so as to appear dissolving. These pieces, which take the shape of tunics and miniskirts worn with shaggy wool cardigans, have the quality of artifacts. As a counterweight, the sisters offered tough black leather, including motorcycle jackets with many straps around the body and arms, as though girded for battle. And the models wore over-the-knee boots that were lashed to the top with leather ties. Not an easy fashion to exit. It’s baffling to hear people say that the Rodarte clothes are full of emotion when in fact they are emotionless. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. Over the last 30 years a number of designers have tried to evoke a cold, mechanistic world — few more eloquently than Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela. More recently Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga has used materials to suggest robots. So, are the Mulleavys adding anything to the fashion of destruction that couldn’t be said more simply and profoundly with a widow’s black dress (to recall Ms. Kawakubo’s famous show in the ’90s)? The answer is no. If the sisters are seriously engaged by this sensibility — and it isn’t clear that they are — they need to get under the surface. All those scarred fabrics are essentially ornament; the underlying shapes don’t change much, and they’re not interesting. Indeed you wonder if they are bored or intimidated by the actual mechanics of design — cutting, setting a sleeve — and that what their clothes express isn’t technical virtuosity but inarticulateness. nytimes.com

19-02-2009	203
rip_ian curtis front row Join Date: Jul 2008 Gender: homme Posts: 378	nice, but the actual collection we will see in stores. they can't sell only dresses.

19-02-2009	205
Scott Stitch:the Hand Mod Squad Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Among the trees Gender: homme Posts: 12,452	i completely agree irulan....i was so shocked to read that about the emotion factor....i think they carry immense emotion in their work as a whole and in this collection. i mean the moody combinations of material,textures....they must have been getting that from somewhere.

19-02-2009	206
Caffeine V.I.P. Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: North Williamsburg, NY Gender: femme Posts: 3,697	"Indeed you wonder if they are bored or intimidated by the actual mechanics of design — cutting, setting a sleeve — and that what their clothes express isn’t technical virtuosity but inarticulateness." - extremely well said. If they make this kind of clothes for one season, that's one thing. Making clothes without any change on the structure or even the silhouette is another. I'm bored and even a little annoyed.

19-02-2009	209
Gainsbourg tfs star Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NYC Gender: femme Posts: 1,750	The pieces look so crazy and futuristic in a good way I like it __________________ Down the avenue, into the lost bayou Lolita au Pays de Merveilles

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