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20-02-2009
  211
windowshopping
 
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why the same silhouette throughout the collection?
Those boots are horrendous, they look like beige masking tape is wrapped around the leg.

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20-02-2009
  212
trendsetter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jegg View Post
Itís baffling to hear people say that the Rodarte clothes are full of emotion when in fact they are emotionless. Thatís not necessarily a bad thing. Over the last 30 years a number of designers have tried to evoke a cold, mechanistic world ó few more eloquently than Rei Kawakubo of Comme des GarÁons and Martin Margiela. More recently Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga has used materials to suggest robots.

All those scarred fabrics are essentially ornament; the underlying shapes donít change much, and theyíre not interesting. Indeed you wonder if they are bored or intimidated by the actual mechanics of design ó cutting, setting a sleeve ó and that what their clothes express isnít technical virtuosity but inarticulateness.

nytimes.com
This is just bad writing and logic. She throws out such random, subjective statements "emotionless" and "not interesting" with nothing to support her claims whatsoever. She never explains why "underlying shapes" must change and why ornament is bad in the first place. There are an infinite number of ways to create beautiful wearable art. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I never heard the Mulleavy sisters make any claims to their technical virtuosity anyway. I hate when people do this.

Gaah, feeling very anti-establishment today, so glad this is not politics for once!

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20-02-2009
  213
Stitch:the Hand
 
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^never. in fact they continue to re-iterate how much they learn as they go and how much they study different techniques.

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20-02-2009
  214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dior_couture1245 View Post
I've done some thinking...while I really do like this collection, I think it is time for Laura and Kate to move on from this apocalyptic stage. I know, I know...you all probably think I'm a hypocrite because I've been defending them so passionately in previous posts, but what I'm realizing my problem with this collection is that I wanted this it to develop something totally new for them. The trilogy was fantastic, wonderful and so memorable. Up until this point, I feel as though they truly have been moving onward and upward. While I certainly don't consider this collection a step down, I do think it was more of a plateau.

I love Rodarte, and their progression from their first SS 06 collection up to this point is both radical and, yet somehow, rather natural. I don't expect to, or even care to see them take huge steps upward from one season to the next (I like it when they play with their ideas over the course of a season or two), but I do want them to at least move around a little bit.
I don't think I did the best job expressing myself in that last post. Basically, what I meant to say, in a nutshell, is that I want to see them move on not because of frustration, but because of excitement.

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20-02-2009
  215
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these girls can do no wrong..it seems..

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20-02-2009
  216
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The full show is up on youtube if anyone is interested in seeing it.

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20-02-2009
  217
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Absolutely gorgeous works of art.

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21-02-2009
  218
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I don't understand of the point of people like Cathy Hoyrn. Fashion is an artform; therefore subjective. She doesn't seem to think so.

Every time I read her 'reviews', her arrogance is undeniably manifest. She references Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons and Miuccia Prada more times than I can count, as if to say, "I know more than you ever will about fashion, so bow at my temple"
She criticizes for the point of criticism and knows not to question the 'intellectual designers' for fear of being proven misinformed or just generally ignorant.

Anyways, I find her talk of 'saying something new' superfluous. Rodarte is, and always has been, concerned with evolution rather than revolution and radicalism. I don't find Hoyrn's judgment appropriate as a result. They never claimed/wanted to be concerned with this kind of relentless fowards-fowards-fowards-mentality and why should they? Fashion needs all kinds of designers; retrospective, introspective and prospective, in order to work.

Besides, I find Hoyrn's reviews rather self-indulgent, since the 'true fashion criticism' lies with the customers and the women who invest in these collections. Does it matter what Cathy Hoyrn thinks when these pieces are flying off shelves? I think not.

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21-02-2009
  219
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^ So you must feel that way about all fashion critics then, that they're pompous morons who shouldn't be sharing their views? Let's face it, fashion criticism, in fact any kind of criticism of a creative field, is entirely unnecessary since it's sole purpose is to critique. So your accusation that her writing is just to blow smoke up her own a$$ for the sake of proving her knowledge or indulging in her ego seems a little ridiculous since that's pretty much what all fashion critics do. Disagree with her all you want, but saying that her reviews are self indulgent b.s. in a sea of meaningful insights is kind of ludicrous.

I'm actually going to go against the grain here and say that I do agree with some of the points she made in her review, despite the fact that I do really like the collection. I too don't think there was any emotion in this collection, or at the very least the way the collection was presented. It was like an army of clones, cold, alien, detached. As well I do think that Kate and Laura are mostly concerned with decorating clothes as opposed to creating them, and while I love the results for the interest and beauty, you can't deny that they don't seem too interested in the mechanics of fashion. They're working with the facade. I'm not saying they have to change that, but people will begin to question it sooner or later. I think Horyn's entire review was basically her way of asking when this evolution will lead to a point.

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21-02-2009
  220
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I can see where you're coming from, but I do wonder to what point you think fashion should lead?
A big thing in my book with fashion right now is that I tend to prefer designers who manage to create a look to fashion our decade and the next. Endless chains of references to other centuries of style as most designers prefer to do will not do for me anymore. Phillip Lim does the sixties, Zac Posen does Victoriana, Nina Ricci does Edwardiana, Marc Jacobs does the eighties in absolute hideousness true to this time.
Fashioning our decade means to cut all temporal references, to go away from all these established shapes that already have a stamp on them, colours that work fine with them, hairstyle and make-up and shoes included.
Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga, Miuccia Prada, Alber Elbaz come to my mind when I think about this way of designing. And not on the same level, but as the next generation maybe I think of such likes as the Mulleavys.
Their designs whether deliberate or not, I can't tell, point to nothing but themselves. Of course there are well-hid inspirations. But you can just as well forget them and the clothing is entirely self-referential. That is the point a good collection should lead to, at least in my fashion philosophy.

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21-02-2009
  221
rising star
 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQB3QkeUEro

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21-02-2009
  222
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21-02-2009
  223
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Its not the greatest but i like it none the less... good job

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21-02-2009
  224
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I for one very much agree with Cathy Horyn and I'm glad someone's giving them some constructive critisiscm instead of sole praise.

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21-02-2009
  225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irulan View Post
I can see where you're coming from, but I do wonder to what point you think fashion should lead?
A big thing in my book with fashion right now is that I tend to prefer designers who manage to create a look to fashion our decade and the next. Endless chains of references to other centuries of style as most designers prefer to do will not do for me anymore. Phillip Lim does the sixties, Zac Posen does Victoriana, Nina Ricci does Edwardiana, Marc Jacobs does the eighties in absolute hideousness true to this time.
Fashioning our decade means to cut all temporal references, to go away from all these established shapes that already have a stamp on them, colours that work fine with them, hairstyle and make-up and shoes included.
Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga, Miuccia Prada, Alber Elbaz come to my mind when I think about this way of designing. And not on the same level, but as the next generation maybe I think of such likes as the Mulleavys.
Their designs whether deliberate or not, I can't tell, point to nothing but themselves. Of course there are well-hid inspirations. But you can just as well forget them and the clothing is entirely self-referential. That is the point a good collection should lead to, at least in my fashion philosophy.
What I mean is that so far their exploration and creation of texture, color and surface detail hasn't actually said anything except "this is what we're about", and while it's important that a designer says that when they're starting out, you can't just reiterate it all the time. Even though this collection is a step forward for them in terms of mood and look, they haven't completely evolved. They aren't using those collage-like mixes of texture and embellishment that they've been playing with for a few seasons now in a new way. They're just using them to different effect and repeating it 35 times.

Don't get me wrong, I think their work is beautiful, interesting and unique, but I can also understand why some people are starting to question if what Rodarte has to offer fashion goes beyond what's on the surface of clothes.

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Last edited by Spike413; 21-02-2009 at 10:44 AM.
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