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17-09-2009
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Stitch:the Hand
 
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can i ask one thing to the critics....would you all say the same of them if they perhaps weren't as big? to me it seems contradictory....if they were smaller and less hyped maybe they wouldn't generate that kind of criticism? there are a lot of designers that are around that are less talked about but still appreciated enough to warrant opinions and they too stay within what they do best,keep their signatures in tact and no one bats an eyelash. it just feels like so many want them to move away from what they do best because of their much-lauded position these days. not everyone has to be marc jacobs. and while i do agree their sense of construction is an area they could use a bit of evolution in,i don't think they should abandon the textural and their artful sense of material elements for the sake of the fashion river.

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17-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
can i ask one thing to the critics....would you all say the same of them if they perhaps weren't as big? to me it seems contradictory....if they were smaller and less hyped maybe they wouldn't generate that kind of criticism?
i still wouldn't like it and i'd feel the same about the collection. it's just gross. i mean look at these following pics....anybody can drape random crap like this on a dress form. it isn't art.





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Last edited by Alejandro; 17-09-2009 at 09:37 AM.
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17-09-2009
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Thank you.^^ It's sloppy, plain and simple.

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17-09-2009
  259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
can i ask one thing to the critics....would you all say the same of them if they perhaps weren't as big? to me it seems contradictory....if they were smaller and less hyped maybe they wouldn't generate that kind of criticism?
Can I ask the same question back - if Margiela keeps sending out collection after collection of the bottle-cap vests, now bottle-cap dresses, bottle cap jackets, next plastic bottle caps instead of metal ones, next bottle-caps mixed with leather, etc....at what point would you not be tearing your hair out?

I am stunned in that so little is demanded of the Rodarte sisters.

Give me a few months with a lot of interns, I'd do these collage dresses on a mannequin form. In fact, for Fall, I'd be experimenting with different types of chains collaged, woven, stitched, even chainmail, silver, antique gold, bronze with felted wool, plaid, metal zips that "open" some of the collages to transform them, some leather, in colors like ink black, deep violets, forest greens, dark blues, throw in some patches of black shiny patent for a sliver of sharpness. Sounds like a Rodarte collection already yet? That's the problem for me, it's becomed a cliche. Maybe next Spring it's more "cyber" materials, irridiscents, Milky Way prints, neon transparent panels, again all collaged and draped stitched on a mannequin. Come Spring Summer Winter or Fall.

I don't deny the amount of work involved in stitching these together, piece by piece, but the method is tired, the shape is unchanged, the textural finish the same, the result still "etsy". There is a limit to repetition, and critics and fans are letting them get away with stretching it to unbearable lengths for some of us.

I'm sure they must be the nicest people on earth, so this isn't personal.


I said the same of Rad Hourani and his variations on the slashed pants - first time I saw those, I went , then again the next collection..., then another collection..., and now...

Besides, by the time Rodarte same up with this collage collection, they were a couple of seasons behind Balenciaga, who was a couple of decades behind Kaisik Wong. After the raves, they kept doing it, more raves and it became the "Rodarte" look, they were sending out drastically different collections before, all poorly tailored.

I'd agree with educo about being "lazy" - it isn't that this kind of painstaking stitching and sewing isn't demanding of handwork, it is, but they're "lazy" in that they're not doing more to learn real tailoring and do real clothes. Perhaps they aren't dodging it, it could be *this* work is their limit.

So, no, they haven't convinced me and a few others - to be a REAL fasion designer, you've got to *know* how to do a lot more. Take Margiela - from concept to artisanal to just fantastic looking suits to colored ice necklaces that stain the clothes in paint splashes, he sends them all. He is seldom out of ideas or the skills to execute them. He is a *real* designer.


Last edited by Zazie; 17-09-2009 at 10:15 AM.
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17-09-2009
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Zazie you are so eloquent. I agree with every single word you wrote.

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17-09-2009
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this looks like a cancelled look from Alexander McQueen 6 years ago. Muchh worse, it looks like my cat choked on a ball of yarn, spit it out and genius came out.

Seriously, if Rodarte and Alexander Wang are the champions of American fashion, I'll pack my bags and move to Europe, utterly disgusting!

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17-09-2009
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You say any designer could drape like that, and could do what the Rodarte sisters do... and yet no one else is? Surely the fact no one else is doing anything even close to what they are doing is part of their sucess?

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17-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
I don't deny the amount of work involved in stitching these together, piece by piece, but the method is tired, the shape is unchanged, the textural finish the same, the result still "etsy". There is a limit to repetition, and critics and fans are letting them get away with stretching it to unbearable lengths for some of us.
Yeah I do agree that the style of this collection is basically the same as past season's and I did not like it when I first saw it. Now, the collection is starting to grow on me albeit being too dark for my liking for spring but thats just their style! Whats beautiful is beautiful and their aesthetic is unique. Though it is repetitive it still works for me, its so Rodarte. Guess we'll have to wait for the next season to see if the sisters have upped their game.


Last edited by adelenetie; 17-09-2009 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Adding an opinion
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17-09-2009
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I'm a little confused why everyone keeps going on about how Rodarte's been doing so much of the patchwork pieces. They've only started really experimenting with that last spring. I could see some complaints about the other elements though, like the spiderweb knits and their signature draping, but it looks like right now they're just carrying the collage elements over a few seasons. And in my opinion, it works.

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17-09-2009
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Originally Posted by retailqueen View Post
Zazie you are so eloquent. I agree with every single word you wrote.
Thank you! Not that a few critics on a website makes much difference, as the press love them as ever.

Quote:
You say any designer could drape like that, and could do what the Rodarte sisters do... and yet no one else is? Surely the fact no one else is doing anything even close to what they are doing is part of their sucess?
Ever "played" with a mannequin form? Go get yourself some of your fave materials and start pinning. I have made myself a "Rodarte-Balenciaga-Kaisik Wong" vest a couple of seasons back with bits of brocade, ropes, zips. Why would you assume that other designers don't do this because they can't? What if they have some pride and refuse to go down this well-trodden path? Philip Lim tried to cash in on this trend with his current collection and he deservedly earned heaps of scorn.To wit, I have seen bloggers, yes, bloggers, with zero fashion training, do Rodarte copies and even sold them.


Last edited by Zazie; 17-09-2009 at 11:11 AM.
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17-09-2009
  266
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the tattoos were the best part. the clothes often look like a craft project gone wrong. really awkward at moments. i like the silhouette, but they look so home-made.

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17-09-2009
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other designers don't do it because the care about women who wear their clothes. Looking at the Rodarte models, they look smelly like they haven't taken a bath for days. Now who wants to kiss stinky girls, not me

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17-09-2009
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zazie,where on earth did you see where i put them at the same level as margiela? i never uttered a word about MMM or anyone else. so i don't understand that equation. of course,they're nothing like margiela. i don't hold them in such high esteem that i would compare them with any of the masters. but i like what they do even still.

and i have my faults with them too. don't think i am some fawning,delusional hype follower....i've made my feelings about their construction well known. and i agree wholeheartedly with everybody else's feelings about that as well. my point was as everybody's arguments being expressed,was that they aren't moving on....almost as if they need to move on from their niche and i don't agree with that at all. there are loads of designers out there who have signatures and bring back very distinct elements....signature methods of creating things every season,and to say they all need to move on is silly.

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17-09-2009
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Quote:
Ever "played" with a mannequin form? Go get yourself some of your fave materials and start pinning.
I have a degree in Fashion design thanks, so I've done more than "play" on a mannequin, and so am fully aware of the construction of Rodarte's garments.

You missed my point totally it would seem. I never said or even implied other designers are not doing this because they are not able. I simply said, quite clearly, that perhaps part of their sucess is that no-one is doing it. Regardless of the fact they may well be able to do it. No-one else is. And so back to my original point, perhaps here lies part of their sucess.


Last edited by honeycombchild; 17-09-2009 at 11:32 AM.
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17-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
zazie,where on earth did you see where i put them at the same level as margiela? i never uttered a word about MMM or anyone else. so i don't understand that equation. of course,they're nothing like margiela. i don't hold them in such high esteem that i would compare them with any of the masters. but i like what they do even still.

and i have my faults with them too. don't think i am some fawning,delusional hype follower....i've made my feelings about their construction well known. and i agree wholeheartedly with everybody else's feelings about that as well. my point was as everybody's arguments being expressed,was that they aren't moving on....almost as if they need to move on from their niche and i don't agree with that at all. there are loads of designers out there who have signatures and bring back very distinct elements....signature methods of creating things every season,and to say they all need to move on is silly.
No offense Scott. I am using Margiela as an example, could be CdG, Raf Simons, to provide a framework for discussion about true design talent. Sure they can do their own thing for as long as they can sell them, but that can be said equally of Marchesa. To me, they're similar - repetitive, capable of only one not terribly difficult technique, good looking "dramatic" red carpet clothes, one season interchangeable with another - but of course diametrically opposite in their clothes' appeal, appearance and customers. And they're both quite over-hyped, Rodarte even more so. A few irate, honest-to-goodness comments won't hurt them at all, especially on a site like this. Until this distressed-warrior-collage-patchwork trend is over - and it will soon be with the mini-Rodartes walking around and bloggers DIY-ing - it won't be apparent what more they are capable of, as they simply haven't shown much of anything else.

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