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17-09-2009
  286
rising star
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nochoporenka View Post
Peter, Bjorn and John - Blue Period Picasso

correct me if Im wrong?!
Nope, it's def not that song

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17-09-2009
  287
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While there is plenty of room for doubt about the amount of skill behind Rodarte, they still have a lot of other things going for them. The emotional content of their work is underrated by many. The clothes have a visceral appeal that is powerful enough to negate their limited technique.

With that said, I don't see them as having long-term viability as designers because of that lack of skill. Maybe they could go on to learn more (I forget if the Mulleavys are formally trained), but somehow I see them going out when the fashion world moves on as it inevitably does. They will have to evolve more rapidly to survive, and if all they know how to do is this one collage technique, with some use of effective but admittedly amateurish draping, how will they keep up?

My initial reaction to this collection was very positive because I identify with their vision and their aesthetic in general, and this time they pushed it further in a direction that is very appealing to me. But there isn't really a lot to go back to after the bang of the first impression. I feel like I saw it and now I can move on.

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17-09-2009
  288
Not Thinking About Time
 
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I am surprised with how controversial this is turning out to be. Personally I love it and the music that goes with the show is fantastic if anyone has a full playlist figured out that would be lovely.

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17-09-2009
  289
no tom ford, no thanks.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverNude View Post
... Maybe they could go on to learn more (I forget if the Mulleavys are formally trained)....
they actually just need to grow their business to a point where when that time comes, they can hire members into their design team that have that training. miuccia prada isn't formally trained either.

depending on how this collaboration with target goes, they might be on the brink of hitting it big.

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17-09-2009
  290
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So far, the Rodarte soundtrack goes like this:
Future Primitive by Papercuts
Die Slow by Health
Personal Jesus by Depeche Mode

(credits to dior_couture1245 for ID'ing the songs in the Spring/Summer 2010 Runway Music thread)

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17-09-2009
  291
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i have to agree with the person before me in not understanding what rodartes aesthetic is...
last season was at best ok but this time around i find this collection to be a walking show...
whos going to buy this? besides the pants theres not much that can be considered wearable. i feel like my eyes are being assaulted by the same thing just in different lengths and the "dresses" dont exactly strike my fancy.
i really try to like rodarte and while i do get that they arent like other NY designers, i feel that their collections often times lack a consistent theme of wearable garments.
oh yes and the tattoos were extremely hard to get off lol. backstage at one of the shows they just caked on i think it was called dermablend? lol and to make it worst, girls like karlie were running late for shows so they had to rush. chaos lol

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17-09-2009
  292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramarine View Post
Zazie I love how thoughtful your post was ..

on another hand, I believe its utterly unfair to compair Margiella to the M sisters ... just starting by the fact that they do not have half the amount of collection as Martin under their belt .. it can not be compared. imho

Agreed, they cannot be compared in terms of experience, but I would like to see the potential for "range" before I can conclude that they are truly talented designers and not a one-trick. I saw some older non-collage/artisan collections from Rodarte, and they were quite dreadful. I've seen pretty good leatherwork and mixed-media on etsy, trashionista, etc., so I'm not convinced this is much more special. At best, I guess Rodarte may one day be like a kind of Lesage, specializing in one type of technique, but even then, not pushing the technique much further at this point. Got to emphasize my beef with them is not whether their clothes are aesthetic (their aesthetic in this collection is actually pretty appealing to me), wearable or saleable, as others have pointed out and those are valid points, but whether they are too derivative and mean anything in the larger scheme of American fashion. I do overlook those aspects when I think a young designer shows talent - I'm generally easy on young designers that way! A young Margiela was definitely showing a lot of ideas, skills and concepts in his first collections. There are some American young designers that show the same promise, and it's a shame that they are not getting the same press, financial support, etc.

In the end, I guess I'm fed-up with seeing the same things over and over, whereas others may *like* seeing the very same repetition, it's quite subjective! :p


Last edited by Zazie; 17-09-2009 at 11:37 PM.
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17-09-2009
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Forgive me, but I just have to also mention Sophia Kokosalaki's early collections that did the same collage-stitched pieces but in a much more refined, stunning, not to mention more original fashion. I mentioned Margiela, Balenciaga, etc., but forgot to mention her as well as Hussein Chalayan.

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18-09-2009
  294
rising star
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilhelmF View Post
So far, the Rodarte soundtrack goes like this:
Future Primitive by Papercuts
Die Slow by Health
Personal Jesus by Depeche Mode

(credits to dior_couture1245 for ID'ing the songs in the Spring/Summer 2010 Runway Music thread)
Awesome. You and dior_couture1245 are me hero's

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18-09-2009
  295
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^ No problem. Glad I could helped

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18-09-2009
  296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeijames View Post
they actually just need to grow their business to a point where when that time comes, they can hire members into their design team that have that training. miuccia prada isn't formally trained either.

depending on how this collaboration with target goes, they might be on the brink of hitting it big.
You're right. I'm kinda surprised they haven't reached this point yet though... I hope it happens for them because I think they have a unique voice, they just need a more expansive vehicle to express it.

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18-09-2009
  297
trendsetter
 
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Go have a look at the end of Phillip Lim's collection and tell me that it doesn't look familiar.

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19-09-2009
  298
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has anyone seen their work in person? i can't imagine putting some parts under a sewing machine... especially some of the mohair.



i'm sure they are capable of doing more.. i have seen some beautiful things by them over the forum that aren't part of this kind of look. with the mish-mash, collage. and it still felt like work made by them. maybe it's in the unique fabrics or something... so maybe doing this collection this way was a conscious decision ...


rodarte.net

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19-09-2009
  299
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My first impression of Rodarte was more Marchesa than Ann D., to be honest, with the little bows and trims. I don't see an evolution of their design, it's badly tailored conservative *expensive* cocktail dresses and then pow, warrior woman when the trend became big....this is what's causing the cognitive dissonance.

These are from Rodarte Spring 2006 collection on style.com, just 4 years ago:
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 14m.jpg (19.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 05m.jpg (21.5 KB, 6 views)


Last edited by Zazie; 19-09-2009 at 01:34 PM.
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19-09-2009
  300
Stitch:the Hand
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
Forgive me, but I just have to also mention Sophia Kokosalaki's early collections that did the same collage-stitched pieces but in a much more refined, stunning, not to mention more original fashion. I mentioned Margiela, Balenciaga, etc., but forgot to mention her as well as Hussein Chalayan.
i completely agree with that and i would also include jurgi persoons(the cobweb weaving) in that equation as well. but really what are they all doing now? jurgi is no longer business...chalayan has moved away into a more commercial aesthetic(no more of that decomposing geometry)....sophia as well has got a lot safer....margiela's constant dynamic spirit seems to have disappeared...none are showing that kind of 'raw' spirit anymore. and i think for me that's what is so charming about what they're doing.


Last edited by Scott; 19-09-2009 at 02:10 PM.
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