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11-09-2012
  31
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Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
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A pleasing return toward the fiercer aesthetic of their AW9/10 and SS10 collections: the work which put them on the radar in the first place. For they'd froufrou fallen off it with their last couple of offerings culminating in the nightmare which was AW12/13.

How distant a vision that now seems if we consider eg these hotnasty strides

ss13rodarte7.jpg

But the collection overall does read like the product of someone in two minds. Unsurprising perhaps as it is the product of two minds. But what's lacking perhaps is the coherence they enjoyed back in that aforementioned heyday. The work seems like a synthesis of their old aesthetic and their more recent direction.

I recall when interviewed post the Badlands collection (AW10/11 was it, the last time their work really had any kick) that the girls were almost totally contradicting one another about what that collection signified. SS13 does read as if perhaps one sister was pulling in one direction, the other sibling wanting to go some place else. So a sort of compromised fudge. There is a lot going on.

Nevertheless, it's a fudge worth digesting. Again. Bravo. And I look forward to hearing from them what the thinking behind this new direction is.

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11-09-2012
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^Please credit that picture. Even if it's the same source from the thread. Always credit.

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11-09-2012
  33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saann View Post
^Please credit that picture. Even if it's the same source from the thread. Always credit.
Oh yes - Style.com

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11-09-2012
  34
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Some of the pieces are interesting but there's no clear idea here. It's a shame to see designers who were once so captivating without anything to say.

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11-09-2012
  35
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Some of the outfits looks very Balenciaga to me. But on the othe rhand I really like it. After Wang's show, Rotarde is my second fav show in NYFW.

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11-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
Oh yes - Style.com
Thanks

As for this:
Quote:
I recall when interviewed post the Badlands collection (AW10/11 was it, the last time their work really had any kick) that the girls were almost totally contradicting one another about what that collection signified. SS13 does read as if perhaps one sister was pulling in one direction, the other sibling wanting to go some place else. So a sort of compromised fudge. There is a lot going on.
I never saw that interview but this definitely seems plausible. They've always had a lot going on in their work, like a coherent mess, but this is the first collection where the entire aesthetic has been all over the place. There isn't a clear direction that ties this together quite like their previous collections did.

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11-09-2012
  37
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There are some nice pieces but the collection is all over the place! Does it have a theme??? I can`t even spot a dominant colour...

Looks as if they didn`t have an idea this season and just compiled all left-over sketches that didn`t make it into earlier collections

They can seriously do better!

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11-09-2012
  38
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I am happy that they are experimenting with ideas and trying to offer something different but IMO this is a combo of recent, bad Balenciaga and Miu Miu S/S '11.

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11-09-2012
  39
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As a whole I'm not left feeling wowed by this Rodarte collection. Normally they are so innovative but this one makes me feel like I've seen a lot of these pieces before. But individually I think the clothes will be great for styling in editorials, they can be mixed with other brands or whatever. Also, I sort of got a Game of Thrones vibe from some of the gowns and other pieces from the collection, but in a more futuristic way. I don't know if anyone else see's this or if I'm imagining things!

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11-09-2012
  40
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on the references list, feel free to add those from print princess Mary Katrantzou

bye bye Rodarte

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11-09-2012
  41
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This is just a jumble! Yes in New York is different but not a good thing. The should just go back to their older approach and not mix and match! I don't see a clear direction. Lost it! And yes, Balenciaga much? At least, Proenza did a better reference!

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11-09-2012
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I think it's now 100% evident with this collection that they are letting their themes [apparently this was "medieval princess"] cloud their judgement. I think Crying Diamonds said it best, they are trying to do too much, it feels so over-thought in every way.

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11-09-2012
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This is so hard to swallow, I don't even know where to begin. It's great to see them putting an effort into trying new techniques and stretching their boundaries. That's what designers should do.

BUT in doing that the collection got lost in the sauce. This is a collection of two minds working separately instead of two minds working simultaneously.

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11-09-2012
  44
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Eh...I don't hate it.

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11-09-2012
  45
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as much as i love rodarte's sense of texture and while they do sometimes get things to syncopate beautifully(such as last autumn's highly pastoral folky collection),i also feel besides the fact that this looks rather contrived and all over the place,i think more to the point,this also does nothing to deter the criticism about their lack of depth and versatility when it comes to construction and shape. for a duo with all their hype,it leaves me feeling empty.

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