How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
29-04-2014
  16
front row
 
VersaceVixen009's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Gender: femme
Posts: 310
Let's just hope he's not going to disregard the house's DNA like other designers have been doing.:roll eye: I'm 50/50 on him. Part of me thinks he can do the job as long as he gets rid of the tacky embellishments and sticks to clean silhouettes, part of me is scared he'll take the house into a whole new direction.

__________________
Natasha Poly. Carmen Kass. Daria Werbowy. Erin Wasson. Gisele Bundchen. Amber Valletta.
  Reply With Quote
 
30-04-2014
  17
fashion icon
 
Mutterlein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,371
I actually thought Paglialunga's Vionnet was rather excellent. Of course I'm referring to the actual clothes and not any uncertain perception gained from only looking at pictures online. The clothes were gorgeous, the cuts and technique were amazing, and it all felt rather fresh and new. Letting him leave was the worst thing that happened to house.

I was always hoping he'd resurface somewhere big but I never imagined Jil. He's an incredibly smart and talented designer and I can't wait to see what he does.

  Reply With Quote
30-04-2014
  18
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,922
I would have prefered to see somebody with a more menswear-based mindset design Jil Sander. This is not the go-to house for pretty party frocks or cocktail dresses, or at least those shouldn't be done in the same approach as at other houses. I don't think he would have been available for the job or that the current management of Jil Sander could have afforded to hire him off from Uniqlo, but I do believe Naoki Takizawa would have been THE one perfect choice for this job - Other than that, (and probably to be had for a salary lower than that) Kostas Murkudis could have been a very terrific choice.

  Reply With Quote
30-04-2014
  19
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutterlein View Post
I actually thought Paglialunga's Vionnet was rather excellent. Of course I'm referring to the actual clothes and not any uncertain perception gained from only looking at pictures online. The clothes were gorgeous, the cuts and technique were amazing, and it all felt rather fresh and new. Letting him leave was the worst thing that happened to house.
Slightly off-topic, but if there was any designer they should have not let go at Vionnet, it was Sophia Kokosalaki.

  Reply With Quote
30-04-2014
  20
fashion elite
 
valliaddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,966
I actually liked his work at Vionnet. I'm not so sure his aesthetic works at Jil Sander, though. Even though this would've been a safe/predictable choice, I would've loved to see Narciso Rodriguez take the helm.

  Reply With Quote
30-04-2014
  21
fashion icon
 
Mutterlein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,371
Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat View Post
Slightly off-topic, but if there was any designer they should have not let go at Vionnet, it was Sophia Kokosalaki.
I was not so into her Vionnet actually and was happy when she left. She's sort of been a disappointment for me in general.

Naoki maybe would not be a bad choice. Kostas I personally think is a bit tired.

But, given Paglialunga's background at Prada and his semi-minimalist exercises at Vionnet (his easy dresses gave Alber Elbaz's a run for their money) it could be really good.

Paglialunga is a sophisticated mind and he knows very well the codes of the house. I'm sure he'll do his best to update the house. What exactly that will look like, I don't have he foggiest clue.

If Pilati weren't tied up he'd actually do a fantastic Jil Sander.

  Reply With Quote
01-05-2014
  22
front row
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Gender: homme
Posts: 420
I do think they should have hired a female designer. Jil Sander has always been fashion made by a woman for women, and there is a big risk that male designer cannot interpret the fine language that Jil herself did and what made the clothes so wonderful all those years. This is not a house built on just simple dresses or menswear references, and the sexiness and sensuality a male designer can communicate through clothing design is never the same than what female designer does. Even Raf's early offerings at Jil were not very female friendly, and later when he bent towards more feminine approach it failed to be fitting for the brand.

  Reply With Quote
01-05-2014
  23
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,882
to be honest,i know several female designers that would have fit really well if that were so important...tricot you and i have had this discussion before and i still think branquinho has that DNA about her work that would translate beautifully at JS. tess giberson is another i've watched for so long and she too has a lot of jil sander spirit about her as well. ann-sofie back is another....yasuko furata who designs TOGA. most importantly i would just want a strong talent who understands that language.....one designer i thought about immediately was carol christian poell. on the surface very esoteric but scratch beneath the surface he is a master tailor who understands how to innovate with pure construction.

  Reply With Quote
01-05-2014
  24
fashion icon
 
Mutterlein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
to be honest,i know several female designers that would have fit really well if that were so important...tricot you and i have had this discussion before and i still think branquinho has that DNA about her work that would translate beautifully at JS. tess giberson is another i've watched for so long and she too has a lot of jil sander spirit about her as well. ann-sofie back is another....yasuko furata who designs TOGA. most importantly i would just want a strong talent who understands that language.....one designer i thought about immediately was carol christian poell. on the surface very esoteric but scratch beneath the surface he is a master tailor who understands how to innovate with pure construction.

I actually think Branquinho would have have been a great choice. Who knows, maybe she was considered and maybe the management wanted someone who didn't have the obligation of a another line. Lots of factors go into these things.

  Reply With Quote
01-05-2014
  25
flaunt the imperfection..
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,644
branquinho does make sense here...
i could have seen that...

though i also agree that the menswear was probably the strongest part of the label for a long long time and there is a huge opportunity there...not to be missed, if one is clever about these things...

anyway- if- as they say- they are moving in a different direction, well...
they can go in that direction without me...
i haven't bought a piece of jil sander that wasn't designed by jil sander...
i doubt i ever will...

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior




Last edited by softgrey; 01-05-2014 at 04:49 PM.
  Reply With Quote
02-05-2014
  26
backstage pass
 
vandekamp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Gender: femme
Posts: 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey View Post
anyway- if- as they say- they are moving in a different direction, well...
they can go in that direction without me...
i haven't bought a piece of jil sander that wasn't designed by jil sander...
i doubt i ever will...
same here, 100%.

scared for this.. but we will see. I will definitely keep an open mind. this is so unexpected though that I'm slightly thrown back. I do not want to see one of my favourite fashion houses tarnished, ugh.


Last edited by vandekamp; 02-05-2014 at 12:30 AM.
  Reply With Quote
02-05-2014
  27
Stitch:the Hand
 
Scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Among the trees
Gender: homme
Posts: 12,882
i haven't bought anything either since her first departure from the label. i would however do so again if they found somebody who shared jil's principles and integrity.

if their intentions are to move the label into new territory with this decision,i honestly fear another HL debacle.

  Reply With Quote
02-05-2014
  28
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,922
I get the impression the aim is to make Jil Sander a more 'accessible' fashion house rather than to cater to those that have sought sort of an 'anti-fashion' and found it in the original Jil Sander - Not very many designers (and fashion CEOs) actually understand to make a continuous business out of that, in that case I do believe the house should be seen in line with Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester or even somebody like Rick Owens, all of whom share a dedication to keep a certain integrity of the original vision up.

When I speak about menswear as the core of the Jil Sander design aesthetic, it's less about the actual menswear collection than the approach of design that was very specific to the woman herself - I think she really pioneered the menswear separates, the suit, the Chesterfield coat and the white shirt for women, making those iconic pieces her's. I see a typical Jil Sander design to be above anything of utilitarian consideration, durability and somewhat sober elegance. What she did during her two comebacks was to articulate a 'fashion' beyond that, it's interesting how here volumes became more dynamic and abstractly sculptural, yet completely plausible and easy to wear - Something Raf Simons' fashions for the house didn't always have.

  Reply With Quote
02-05-2014
  29
flaunt the imperfection..
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
Gender: femme
Posts: 50,644
a lot of the volume you speak of - tric- was achieved through the glorious and sumptuous fabrics which draped or stood away from the body, depending on how they were handled...

this necessarily drove up the prices---
i think this is why raf's stuff always seemed so stiff...
i suspect they wouldn't let him go beyond a certain price point, which relegated him to stiffer, less wieldy fabrics, resulting in stiff garments...

it's sad really...
but it is true that beautiful clothes that no one can afford to buy are rather impractical...for all of their wearability...

there is still a black cashmere coat from fall that i think of regularly...
but the $5000 price was just not a realistic option for me...

__________________
"It is not money that makes you well dressed: it is understanding."
ChristianDior




Last edited by softgrey; 02-05-2014 at 11:39 AM.
  Reply With Quote
02-05-2014
  30
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey View Post
a lot of the volume you speak of - tric- was achieved through the glorious and sumptuous fabrics which draped or stood away from the body, depending on how they were handled...

this necessarily drove up the prices---
i think this is why raf's stuff always seemed so stiff...
i suspect they wouldn't let him go beyond a certain price point, which relegated him to stiffer, less wieldy fabrics, resulting in stiff garments...

it's sad really...
but it is true that beautiful clothes that no one can afford to buy are rather impractical...for all of their wearability...

there is still a black cashmere coat from fall that i think of regularly...
but the $5000 price was just not a realistic option for me...
True, but there is also something about the cut of the pieces she designed in the past 10 years that was a bit different from the 90ies minimalism she pioneered - Some of the pattern solutions she came up with reminded me of what I would have otherwise found in a Christobal Balenciaga or Junya Watanabe design.

The online store Stylebob has a pretty good selection of her recent collections and you can see the close from 360 degrees, in which case the architectural quality of the cut comes out very well.

Some nice examples:

http://www.stylebop.com/de/product_d...2231&id=498451

(love the slightly flared vent on the sleeve)

http://www.stylebop.com/de/product_d...2231&id=518434

(the wrapped front and sculptural lantern sleeve)

  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
creative, director, jil, named, paglialunga, rodolfo, sander
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:40 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. 2014 All rights reserved.