The Row F/W 2018.19 New York - Page 2 - the Fashion Spot
 
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1 Week Ago
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EstefaniaAbaddon's Avatar
 
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I want to hate it. I want to hate everything about it (because I can't stand the Olsens, this whole fake stunt as designers - do we even know who's really designing this). But it's so hard.

I love 80% of it. I love how heavy and sober everything feels, how practical, the colour palette (that green is gorgeous), the large cuts.

In this Gucci-Vetements-Wang-Instagram centered era, and with Céline being half-dead, I just want/need a bit of sobriety, exquisite tailoring, fabrics that caress my skin instead of scratching/constricting.

Not sure about how good this actually looks (the blurry pictures do nothing to help this collection) but I can't help but like what I see.

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^^^ If some can set aside their seething disdain for the Olsens for just moment and see the pieces for what they are: A no-nonsense, easy-to-wear, understated luxury that flatters the wearer (of different body types) and not about shouting to everyone how fashionable you are— but just how good you can look, then there’s an undeniable serenity and quiet confidence presented here.

The Phoebe/Celine copycat dismissal is rather unfair, as there’s more of a Margiela for Hermes, with a decent dose of 90s Calvin Klein that permeates throughout the collections in a consistent basis. Phoebe does not rock my world ias it does for many, so I tend to not see her influences everywhere (although no doubt the majority of NYC designers are just picking up her scraps for sure.) Just not here. Whomever are designing The Row, gets my admiration.

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Also I forgot to mention that this cast is to die for. I mean: Kirsty Hume opening, Karen Elson, Nimue Smit, Alana Zimmer, Sylvia van der Klooster, Saskia de Brauw, Vlada, Cecilia Chancellor, Tasha Tilberg, Esther de Jong, Ajak Deng, Alek Wek, Constance Jablonski, Liisa Winkler, Jacquelyn Jablonski, and Yasmin Warsame closing.

I love this but at the same time it makes me a bit mad because it makes me realize how much I hate the fashion industry's ageism. All of these icons should still be getting top jobs left and right, not one-offs like this and a few other things they do here and there.

It's a good move by The Row too, as they're pretty much the only ones who bring legends for almost every show they do.

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Meh, depressing, seems too "we are serious designers so we're going to do channel Owens/Yohji/Margiela archives this season to prove it".

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatherAnne View Post
Meh, depressing, seems too "we are serious designers so we're going to do channel Owens/Yohji/Margiela archives this season to prove it".
I'm a bit confused about comments like these because it's not like it comes as a surprise this has been The Row's aesthetic for years, despite the fact I also see mostly Margiela's work at Hermès as well as 90ies Calvin and Jil Sander as influences in their work, which were also major inspiration for Phoebe Philo's Céline at the time (I can only disagree to the disproportional amount of credit she gets when it's really going down to Jil Sander...).

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It seems that people would feel differently about the collection if the Olsens weren't the creative directors

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat View Post
I'm a bit confused about comments like these because it's not like it comes as a surprise this has been The Row's aesthetic for years, despite the fact I also see mostly Margiela's work at Hermès as well as 90ies Calvin and Jil Sander as influences in their work, which were also major inspiration for Phoebe Philo's Céline at the time (I can only disagree to the disproportional amount of credit she gets when it's really going down to Jil Sander...).
I think it's because brands like The Row can't make it personal enough and distinguish their work from someone like Margiela's Hermès or Jil Sander. The impression, silhouette and spirit feels too similar, thus making it "pretentious". To me this is too literal rehashing of 90's minimalism and, while beautiful, it feels like it really doesn't belong to this day and age. I'm not saying Phoebe wasn't inspired by these designers over the years, but I think she was clever to make her own version out of it and bring their legacy to the modern day. Out of that she created a strong signature look for Céline that we really can't call out as copying/resembling someone else's equally iconic look.

Personally, I'm a bit tired of this austere cashmere-clad fantasy woman who seems to live in art galleries and is surrounded by mid-century furniture all the time. This collection looks comfortable and easy, but in reality there are very few women who are tall/thin enough to pull this off, and even then all these long coats and pants in special materials feel very "uneasy" to wear in the windy street and around dirty subways (though maybe the Row woman doesn't take the subway in the first place?). If I were working for them, I would try to find out how these luxury basics and 90's inspirations would be worn by women today to make it feel more real and less a fantasy image.

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  23
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Some volumes are barely working, i feel there needs to be more knowledge to pull that of.. but the suits are so beautiful, i love the longer sleeve with the defined waist. its a beautiful balance. to be honest those 3 suits saved the whole thing for me.

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I see comments about Margiela at Hermes but the reality is that Margiela at Hermes was a very particular thing almost removed from fashion. Margiela was doing the kind of clothes he though a house like Hermes should do, for the type of clientele who bought Hermes at the time and in a way with the idea that it shouldn't about fashion.

Hermes by Margiela looked normal back in the day and it still look normal today. Each garnment was the elevated version of the garnment. Overdose of Cashmere, wool, linen and things like that. Raw fabrics, exquisite construction and timeless designs that were practical in a sense that the women who were on the show didn't looked like they were walking a fashion show.

The beauty of that was the sense of innocence of simplicity even if everything was controlled and all.

The Row clothes are good for what they are but there's no soul and it all seems fake and pretentious with the presentation, the dramatic allure and those women drowning in their clothes. I believe those clothes are classics but i don't know if they are timeless...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by daisyhawkins View Post
It seems that people would feel differently about the collection if the Olsens weren't the creative directors
***Edited***

I think the Olsen's, and their place in fashion, are quite well respected ***Edited***

***Edited***

Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat View Post
I'm a bit confused about comments like these because it's not like it comes as a surprise this has been The Row's aesthetic for years, despite the fact I also see mostly Margiela's work at Hermès as well as 90ies Calvin and Jil Sander as influences in their work, which were also major inspiration for Phoebe Philo's Céline at the time (I can only disagree to the disproportional amount of credit she gets when it's really going down to Jil Sander...).
It's not a surprise, but I prefered their earlier more tailored collections (suits/coats/leather pieces), made with the same beautiful materials.

I guess they were not runway worthy, looking back. But they were certainly buzz worthy.

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My problem with The Row is the very limited lexicon and this for me is a big flaw in terms of fashion, but on the other hand, looking at the big picture, I can appreciate a brand who just wanna to do very luxurious pieces with a local production, so with this as the main message its a very bold move from this girls.

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  27
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I liked the collection as a whole and I thought the models looked fine the way they were styled. It felt in cohesion to the clothing that they were wearing..but I must say with The Row, VB, and as some have mentioned JWA, all doing the intellectual-chic woman look that Phoebe did so well, I can only wonder how much longer it can go on before buyers and just the fashion public get's tired with it. It almost feels like soon this look is going to become very over saturated very quickly, in my humble opinion.

I just feel that sometimes too many "homages" for the lack of a better term, really cheapens the look when they aren't done with a lot of care and enough thought that will still seperate the inspiration, Phoebe, from the collection that's being presented from whomever. I will say I did thoroughly enjoy this collection and it definitely ranks higher for me than what VB showed and I will absolutely be looking at The Row as an alternative to Celine(depending on what Hedi produces).

I just think we ought to stop while we are ahead..I mean look at what is happening on the other side of the coin with Vetements, CK, Balenciaga..it's just become too much for me and I have been completely turned off and away from the houses...not that I was ever much of a ck or vetements client


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sophisticated collection, and well executed

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Mutterlein's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EstefaniaAbaddon View Post
I want to hate it. I want to hate everything about it (because I can't stand the Olsens, this whole fake stunt as designers - do we even know who's really designing this). But it's so hard.

I love 80% of it. I love how heavy and sober everything feels, how practical, the colour palette (that green is gorgeous), the large cuts.

In this Gucci-Vetements-Wang-Instagram centered era, and with Céline being half-dead, I just want/need a bit of sobriety, exquisite tailoring, fabrics that caress my skin instead of scratching/constricting.

Not sure about how good this actually looks (the blurry pictures do nothing to help this collection) but I can't help but like what I see.
Yes, I know who is designing it. THEY ARE.

They fired Nadege who was their design director and then they did not replace her.

Sure, they have a team helping them but so does everyone else.

Why is it so hard to believe that two wealthy women who spent their lives buying luxury and indulging their tastes would make good clothing designers? It's really not that crazy.

Anyways, this collection is phenomenal and the set is BEYOND though it does skew a little derivative of Lemaire.

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  30
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softgrey's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat View Post
I'm a bit confused about comments like these because it's not like it comes as a surprise this has been The Row's aesthetic for years, despite the fact I also see mostly Margiela's work at Hermès as well as 90ies Calvin and Jil Sander as influences in their work, which were also major inspiration for Phoebe Philo's Céline at the time (I can only disagree to the disproportional amount of credit she gets when it's really going down to Jil Sander...).
i think a lot of people posting must be too young and uneducated to know how completely unoriginal and underwhelming this stuff is...

the vibe i get is very "miserable monastery"...

don't even get me started on the prices...

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