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02-10-2013
  16
trendsetter
 
Sensation's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,204
Favorite:

Christian Dior
Elie Saab
Burberry
Givenchy
Fendi

Dislike:

Rodarte
Alexander McQueen
Saint Laurent
Gucci
Balmain

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02-10-2013
  17
rising star
 
ogepma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: London
Gender: homme
Posts: 177
Top 10 Best collections

1. Prada
2. Christian Dior
3. Miu Miu
4. Salvatore Ferragamo
5. Bottega Veneta
6. Marni
7. Hermes
8. Balenciaga
9. Celine
10. Proenza Schouler

Some other good collections:
Alexander McQueen, Delpozo, Agnona, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Duro Olowu, Eudon Choi, Mary Kartanzou, Giambattista Valli, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy

Most Disappointing collection: Rodarte

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02-10-2013
  18
tfs star
 
TheoG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,728
Favourite
Aquilano.Rimondi: Those rich colors and silhouettes
Miu Miu: Just the quirky Miu Miu I have always adored
Sacai: Sports Wear done so new and colors
Dries Van Noten: Always stellar
No.21: The mashup of womenswears and menswear was wonderful
Delpozo: SUBLIME
Celine: Even thought it was a mess I still loved it.
Givenchy: I admire this collection both haunting yet soft

Disappointed
SAINT LAURENT: Just look at many of the looks you'll understand
Rodate: Laura and Kate please take us back to the whimsical place we all love. tired of this grunge, edge girl.
Marc Jacobs: I so lost and confused. I think everyone else was as well.
Gucci: Usually one of my favorite collections of the season but I thought it was "Luxury Jogging Wear"
Chanel: I wanted to like it, but it's was all over the place.


Last edited by TheoG; 02-10-2013 at 06:29 PM.
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03-10-2013
  19
rising star
 
AnaO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: London
Gender: femme
Posts: 113
I have yet to take a closer look at all the collections.
As for now, my favourites are Prada, KTZ, Valentino, Donna Karan, J.W. Anderson. Honourable metion: Alexander Wang. Though, honestly, I can't say I got truly excited about any collection this season.
My biggest disappointment this season was Alexander McQueen - I normally love the brand, but the latest show was simply hideous. Rodarte was tacky, Saint Laurent was predictably vile, Ungaro made my eyes hurt.
I'm on the fence about Dior.

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03-10-2013
  20
front row
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 262
The season isn't over yet, though. I'm still waiting for a few collections from Japan Fashion Week.

Brilliant:

Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten

Strong:

Issey Miyake, Antonio Marras, Cedric Charlier, Tod's, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Ann Demeulemeester, Y-3, Tod's, Hermes

Very Good:

Lanvin, Haider Ackermann, Celine, A.F. Vandervorst, Comme des Garcons, Margaret Howell, Tsumori Chisato, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Antonio Berardi

Interesting, with Reservations:
Sacai, Yohji Yamamoto, Undercover, Mary Katrantzou, Chalayan, Tess Giberson

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03-10-2013
  21
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TheoG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uemarasan View Post
The season isn't over yet, though. I'm still waiting for a few collections from Japan Fashion Week.

Brilliant:

Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten

Strong:

Issey Miyake, Antonio Marras, Cedric Charlier, Tod's, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Ann Demeulemeester, Y-3, Tod's, Hermes

Very Good:

Lanvin, Haider Ackermann, Celine, A.F. Vandervorst, Comme des Garcons, Margaret Howell, Tsumori Chisato, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Antonio Berardi

Interesting, with Reservations:
Sacai, Yohji Yamamoto, Undercover, Mary Katrantzou, Chalayan, Tess Giberson
It quite obvious you have a love for Japanese designers me too

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03-10-2013
  22
trendsetter
 
MoniqValentino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Poland
Gender: femme
Posts: 1,174
BEST:
1.VALENTINO- so fresh and girly collection as always
2.ROBERTO CAVALLI-just sexy
3.GUCCI- amazing prints and fabulous dress
4.Altuzarra-beautiful dresses, great sets and original cuts and styles
5.Emanuel Ungaro- just amazing geometric prints I just love it!
and other my fav collection this is Nina Ricci, Stella McCartney,Prada and Gosia Baczynska

WORST:
Rodarte
Saint Laurent
Louis Vuitton
Alexander McQueen
Chanel
Dsquared2

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03-10-2013
  23
Geometric Discharge
 
Crying Diamonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: London
Gender: homme
Posts: 7,197
Best:

Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan knows how to balance a collection using unique design, quality, novelty and wearability. His drape was beautiful and so were his separates. He's terribly underrated.

Nina Ricci
Peter Copping knows how to design desirable clothes and a wardrobe, and he knows how to design using the feminine aesthetic of the house. Some of my favourite looks were from this collection.

Tod's
Facchinetti had an amazing debut collection at Tod's, beautiful, soft, feminine cuts in leather with long blouses and good accessories.

Ralph Rucci
The quality of Ralph Rucci's collections are unsurpassed. He stands a head and shoulders above other mainstream designers in terms of design and abilities.

Thom Browne
Beautifully constructed, beautifully designed, beautifully presented, he should definitely be at McQueen instead of Sarah Burton.

Calvin Klein Collection
Costa can always seduce me with one of his beautifully executed details, or his stunning fabrics.

A.F. Vandevorst

A fantastic design duo, the idea to spatter sand up garments as if it was embellishment was an incredibly beautiful idea.

Jil Sander

Jil has an incredibly unique cut to her clothes, and those gorgeous tailored coats with the one button closure were sold to me as the best of the season.

Ashish
I love the way this brand can present clothes in a cool and desirable way without it seeming contrived. I also loved the sequin plastic bags.


Worst:

J.W. Anderson
A skirt pulled over the head and worn off one shoulder doesn't make it a top. And doing it three times doesn't convince me it is.

Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton literally needs to chill out and design some actual clothes, instead of ridiculous costumes that have no relevance to fashion or Alexander McQueen.

Rodarte
Need I even bring it up? The sisters have lost their way, and they've fallen into a dark gutter. A dark gutter beside a street full of prostitutes flashing cars in the late 1980's.

Christian Dior
This collection was messy and badly put together. Simons is trying to make minimalism and Christian Dior work when they couldn't be at further ends of the spectrum.


Honourable Mentions
:

Vivienne Westwood's incredible drapery, as usual
Manish Arora's fearless use of colour
Chanel's return to wearable clothing
Alberta Ferretti's typically gorgeous and intricate embellishment and perfect placement
Thomas Tait's beautiful plain satin high-neck dresses with bursts of colourful feathers
Miu Miu's gorgeous soft but tailored coats


Last edited by Crying Diamonds; 03-10-2013 at 02:01 PM.
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03-10-2013
  24
V.I.P.
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Gender: femme
Posts: 4,564
Miu Miu

....
...
Prada
Valentino
Alex Wang

I must say though, i'm not really interested in clothes and I don't look at smaller houses.

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03-10-2013
  25
fashion insider
 
Creative's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,204
I don’t know if this has been pointed out, but one of the biggest disappointments this season has been Agnona. The Zegna group hyped the comeback of the label so much and it ended up being even more generic and bland than a resort collection from a C-list brand.

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03-10-2013
  26
backstage pass
 
IsabelMarantBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: United States
Gender: homme
Posts: 772
I'm having a really hard time trying to come up with collections that I liked, this season has been the worst for me.

although I did love
Miu Miu
Givenchy
Roberto Cavalli
A.P.C
Saint Laurent
Chloe
Balmain
Burberry Prorsum
Dries Van Noten
Honor
Meadham Kirchoff
No. 21
Sonia Rykiel

And while yes I did like these shows, none of them really gave me that wow factor that would normally blow me out of my seat. They were all just nice, which I don't know if it's because fashion is stale or because I'm having a harder time getting excited by it.

Biggest disappointments for me were
Prada
Gucci
Chanel
Valentino
Marc Jacobs
and especially Celine

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04-10-2013
  27
V.I.P.
 
lady stardust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: in the temple of cats...
Gender: femme
Posts: 12,662
Fendi - Elegant and chic

Marc Jacobs - The black dresses..mmm

Miu Miu - Quirky, funny & beautiful

Louis Vuitton - Extraordinare...

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04-10-2013
  28
rising star
 
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: philippines
Gender: homme
Posts: 181
Top 10 (in my opinion) collections for Spring 2014:

1. Roberto Cavalli: Beautiful! Cinematic glamour! I loved that the reference of the Roaring Twenties was evident but not dominant to the point of making the collection a rehash of "The Great Gatsby" costumes!

2. Diane Von Furstenberg:Easy glamour! Luxurious but not obvious in a "I have more money than you"-sort of way! Perfect for New Yorkers!


3. Donna Karan - I admit, I'm biased towards this designer, but you can't deny that she has impeccable taste when it comes to creating tribal-inspired clothes! Although the themes is a bit over-used, I love that she didn't follow any certain trends and that her collection was a beautiful stand-out!


4. Dries Van Noten - GOLD! GOLD! GOLD! We all know that GOLD is the prize for winners so...

5. Givenchy - Stellar collection! The drapings in this collection were absolutely superb!

6. Narciso Rodriguez - Beautiful and clean collection! This was for the woman who just wants to be simply beautiful!

7. Balenciaga - What I loved most about this collection was that Alexander Wang's sweetness came out! It was totally Parisian mixed with Wang's confident edginess!

8. Hermes - If you google "Beautiful Spring Clothes" on Google Images, Hermes Spring 2014 might just be the first ones to appear! Luxurious and rich, Hermes will always be one of the symbols of High Class!

9. Valentino - In a time where too little has become equal to too much, Valentino let out a collection to remind us of the beauty that EXCESS once represented! The embroidery was completely wonderful and the accessories were so divine! So unique from the other collections shown in Paris!

10. Michael Kors - Might as well be my favorite collection! Easy, glamorous, luxurious, beautiful, endearing, delightful, wonderful clothes!!! Being a vintage-lover, I love the somewhat 40's vibe it pulled off! Modern but classic, Michael Kors is one of the best collections this season!!



Worth noting:
Miu Miu - Quintessential Miuccia is always GREAT!!

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04-10-2013
  29
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Canada
Gender: homme
Posts: 732
BEST

3. Marc Jacobs

Never thought I'd even appreciate, let alone praise this collection as one of the most unique, individual offering, but it is-- for me, anyways.

Without a doubt, it rips Muiccia in the awkward print department and Rei, in her odd combination of the unexpected and even more awkward silhouettes. But this time, Marc's been able to successfully translate the grungy skater and surfware with highly-embellished couturey elements that's very Americana into a look that's his. It may be superficial ultimately, but as a fashion statement, I find it's genuine and refreshing. Or maybe it's great to see Marc push a collection that's young, street and modern but not defined by age, and without desperately seeking the approval of the high streetstyle kids.

2. Bottega Veneta

It's quite amazing how Tomas is able to make heavy layers, ruffles folds, and pleats look unfussy and unpretentious. Part schoolgirl uniform in its casual attitude, but all beautifully constructed, this is effortless dressing redefined. And a fantastically, rich and luxurious color-palette to boot.

1. Dries Van Noten

Dries just casually work his unique but always welcoming form of magic into every piece here. It's classic Dries and no one does eclectic, quirky elegance quite like him. This time around, the prints and colors are lush and luxe. And not a lick of a gimmick.

1. No. 21

Flawless. Irresistibly sexy and confident without even trying. Alessandro really knows how to dress his women. Each piece is unique and the craftsmanship is appreciatively evident. There's no hard concept, theory or anything contrived; just beautifully modern clothes for women. Very excited to see how he'll revamp Rocha. He deserves all the success and attention.



WORST

So many stupid-looking designs masquerading as high fashion these days. Some-- a lot actually, so desperately seeking attention offerings. Or just simply all loud, annoying gimmicks, masking a forgettable collection, they're best ignored.

3. Balenciaga

Wang is best when he stays within the confines of his trusted sportswear in monochromatic. When he attempts ladylike sophistication, this is the result. Take away the carefully directed and chosen set and venue, and the designs are frighteningly cheap-looking. His version of technical innovation with the pearly pastels look disastrously weak. I suppose it 's all very accessible: the short dress/ skirt lengths, the pastels and the typical femininity will have girls and women who think Cosmopolitan magazine is high fashion coveting this brand. But ultimately, it's just consumer-baiting blandness with a prestigious label. Wang's a natural at branding, I'll give him that.

2. Giorgio Armani

He's been wavering so precariously between achingly-chic and unbelievably garish these last few years. His 2009 A/W collection that had a seductively YSL-feel and very Catherine Deneuve in "The Hunger" remains a standard of luxury-design for me. Now this... Oh god, it's so indisputably... garish and homely. Armani has regressed into mother-of-the-bride and seniors-cruise wear with this offering. Watery, blurry pastel florals and such unattractive suitings. Shocking how the man that once defined understated luxury designs has turned into one of the most outdated, clueless and messy designers in this decade.

1. Burberry Prorsum

Christopher is clearly not even trying anymore when not too long ago, he led with such electricity. Now, the designs look depressing and plain drab, as do the models wearing the designs-- even Christopher himself, looks like he preferred to be somewhere else. Just a dead air of apathy overall. All the looks can be easily put together from older collections-- except for the opulent, jewel-engrusted pieces, whether from Prorsum or any other designers'. Or, as the famous saying from around these parts: "Looks like Zara..."

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04-10-2013
  30
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My best shows would be (in an alphabetical order):

Altuzarra: A bit repetitive, but beautiful reworked silhouettes. Loved the metallic dresses in the end.
Calvin Klein: A beautiful and innovative deconstructed collection which is a great step forward for the house.
Celine: The bravest and probably the best collection to have come out of Celine so far.
Dries Van Noten: Nothing I wouldn't expect from Noten, but still very beautiful. Adored the gold pleats.
Givenchy: Like CK, a big step forward for the house. Definitely loved the prints, even though some of the Asian influenced silhouettes were a little expecting and shallow.
Marc Jacobs: Gorgeous collectible jackets.
Prada: Like every season, Mrs. Prada has done it again. She has an IT collection of the season with a lot of thought behind it.
Proenza Schouler: Even though a lot of people seemed underwhelmed by it, I thought it was a very refined and elegant collection.

My worst and most disappointing shows would be (in an alphabetical order):

Alexander Wang: Definitely on the disappointing side. I believe he is turning into Jacobs at this point, not completely focusing on his own brand.
Balenciaga: After a beautiful new direction last season, Wang creates a vague copy of what Ghesquiere used to do for the house.
Gucci: There is a huge change needed at Gucci ASAP.
Just Cavalli: Not worth mentioning, but I do have a comment - it's like a teenager had gummy bears and Menthol and threw up all over the collection.
Prabal Gurung: A very controversial collection which did have some great pieces, but it was mostly all over the place.
Rodarte: Without a doubt the worst collection of the season.
Saint Laurent: It could've been much worse, but still doesn't live up to my expectations of what the French brand should look like.
Tom Ford: I never thought I'd say this, but I would take Ford's last collection over this boring one anytime.

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