Saint Laurent F/W 2018.19 Paris - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
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28-02-2018
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I'm not exactly sure how well it speaks of Hedi Slimane that his successor manages to come up with a collection that makes the regular customer at Saint Laurent wonder if the house really changed designers.

One thing that can be said about Hedi is that, once all the blocks of the re-branded Saint Laurent were put in place, it was possible for another designer to pick up where he left and grant the house a steady growth, granted he would follow the mold established by Slimane. You can see that being the case here as much as it was apparent at Dior Homme where the tailoring foundation was laid and a lot of timeless products introduced by Hedi Slimane keep on being best sellers (tailoring, jeans, bags, footwear). Despite some stylistic tweaks, you can see that Vaccarello's jackets from the 1st all-black part of the show were modeled after patterns that existed from Hedi's tenure. Dito for the menswear - No way they would let a designer with zero experience in menswear take on a significant part of the houses' business without the reliance on a large amount of products they can re-issue with small variations. Yes, this is a bit more sexy looking on the runway but I don't think the majorities of SLP customers who are not diehard Hedi Slimane fans from the very beginning will find it hard to adjust to Vaccarello's design.

Rick Owens said in an interview that he believes his namesake company could live on without a designer for a good 15 years by re-issuing or tweaking his existing designs by seasonal parameters, so maybe there is some truth in that here.

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28-02-2018
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^ Well, you are right. And one could argue that that is the genius of Slimane. I doubt anyone here thinks that he is a great designer, or even a good one.

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28-02-2018
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I was expecting something heavy and more constructed to this season, but I like it. I actually never get over the "rock and roll YSL glamour" aesthetics so Im not exactly the right person to say if this is good or bad, but, knowing now that we gonna see this clothes everywhere next season Im happy that we are going to see very good clothes.

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28-02-2018
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It's a good or decent show for what it is. It's inoffensive at best and forgettable at worst.
Anthony Vaccarello has always done that: black, skinny, Vogue Paris/Jean Colonna thing.
It all feels like a best-of already with some YSL 80's couture gowns cut into mini-skirts. That's it.
The 80's were some of the worst years of YSL IMO but i've always loved the way designers have reintroduced that in a modern way. This is just literal and lazy and ugly. Those colored dresses at the end kinda killed the whole show. Nobody wants to look like a throwback.

This show is very Parisienne, very Vogue Paris...
It doesn't add anything to the conversation. He is giving to people want they want and that's my problem. A designer should be able to challenge people and also himself. Unfortunately today, designers are only doing a "designer or expensive" version of everyday clothes.

He needs to stop putting menswear on the runway because that is his weakness. Hedi is an amazing menswear designer as much as he is (at least from what he showed) a mediocre womenswear designer.
I still prefer Vaccarello than Hedi as a womenswear designer because despite the lack of a very sharp vision, there's an effort of design even if it sometimes look a mess.

He hasn't shown a trench coat worn with a jean and a tank top and rainboots so, he still got my respect.

Ps: those platform boots are tacky!

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28-02-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guimon View Post
By far his worst and weakest collection yet. So unoriginal.
There's literally no direction here. It's a bunch of nothing, and it's all over the place. What a huge step back from his latest (very strong, imo) collection.

This is not even Fall/Winter enough for my taste. It could literally pass as a Spring/Summer collection. And the floral dresses at the end... What was that? Tragic ending, to a tragic collection.
+1 The previous collection was good, but this , could have been much better. The floral dresses at the end, burn them!

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28-02-2018
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For some reason I liked most of it. Might be the music (which is always spot on) or simply the fact I didn't really feel that moved by any of the shows so far.

Also, don't judge me but I sort of loved the 80's dresses part. And I'm not the fan of the 80's to put it (really) mildly.

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28-02-2018
  37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
I think this brand is on autopilot and living off the Hedi effect , but problem is when Hedi presents his collections at Celine which again will probably be renditions of 80s disco sluts and punk whores , how will Vacarello fare?
I really expect something new and different from Hedi at Celine and I really hope that he will not take the same direction there that he took at Saint Laurent, otherwise it would be both disaster for Celine and for Hedi,and for Saint Laurent too. I also hope Hedi would use more colours and more white, and will come up with completely fresh concepts he have not explored before. I am so tired of those black clothes already, of all that fake glitter, fake gold, poor quality and fits, of all that cold modernism...


Last edited by Aurimas; 28-02-2018 at 04:55 PM.
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01-03-2018
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Not a great collection at all. Really just more of the same and everything begins to blur after a few looks. Don't even get me started on the menswear though....

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01-03-2018
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Very Hedi Slimane. Surely, Vaccarello did similar, skinny, mini, sexy and asymmetrical clothes before. Doing YSL he lost his obsession with this assymetrical pieces in every look. But where to order this flower dresses? Ugly.
Some looks are like Hedi did them by himself. Seems to be taken from Hedi's past YSL collections and droped direct to runway under YSLby Vaccarello.

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07-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nocturnal View Post
He is very limited. Of course he should use archives but not in such literal way. This job is too serious for him. YSL needs a real designer not copycat... (Alber is still unemployed )
Yes yes... YSL needs Alber, someone who had worked alongside/interacted with the master himself, but would he wants to come back to the house given that he was pretty stress then (read that in some interview before)...?

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07-03-2018
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YSL has proved to be a bad bitch of a house for most of the founder's successors, starting from Elbaz until Pilati. As much as he was undisputedly the most important designer of the second half of the 20th century, his heritage has proved tricky to deal with, maybe because so much of its power is linked to the air of the times (70s in particular). That's why I found pretty dull on Slimane's side to attempt to revive that era with stylistic choices that today, 40 years on, keep very little of the original charge, regardless of their commercial success.
As for Vaccarello, poor thing, he's not a bad designer himself but quite below the expected standard nonetheless. Of course the big heads at Kering knew exactly what they were looking for, certainly not someone with a more radical vision, who might have endangered the commercial momentum the brand is going through.


Last edited by bc collector; 07-03-2018 at 08:25 AM.
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09-03-2018
  42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zacatecas570 View Post
The floral dresses reminded me a little Balenciaga Spring 2008 and Fall 2009

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agree 100%

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