Saint Laurent F/W 2018.19 Paris - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
How to Join
fashion insider
tricotineacetat's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,122
I'm not exactly sure how well it speaks of Hedi Slimane that his successor manages to come up with a collection that makes the regular customer at Saint Laurent wonder if the house really changed designers.

One thing that can be said about Hedi is that, once all the blocks of the re-branded Saint Laurent were put in place, it was possible for another designer to pick up where he left and grant the house a steady growth, granted he would follow the mold established by Slimane. You can see that being the case here as much as it was apparent at Dior Homme where the tailoring foundation was laid and a lot of timeless products introduced by Hedi Slimane keep on being best sellers (tailoring, jeans, bags, footwear). Despite some stylistic tweaks, you can see that Vaccarello's jackets from the 1st all-black part of the show were modeled after patterns that existed from Hedi's tenure. Dito for the menswear - No way they would let a designer with zero experience in menswear take on a significant part of the houses' business without the reliance on a large amount of products they can re-issue with small variations. Yes, this is a bit more sexy looking on the runway but I don't think the majorities of SLP customers who are not diehard Hedi Slimane fans from the very beginning will find it hard to adjust to Vaccarello's design.

Rick Owens said in an interview that he believes his namesake company could live on without a designer for a good 15 years by re-issuing or tweaking his existing designs by seasonal parameters, so maybe there is some truth in that here.

  Reply With Quote
fashion icon
dodencebt's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 3,419
^ Well, you are right. And one could argue that that is the genius of Slimane. I doubt anyone here thinks that he is a great designer, or even a good one.

"See, there is a difference between me and you. When you hear Celine you think of Dion. I think of the brand."
  Reply With Quote
front row
ghostwriter10549's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Rio
Gender: homme
Posts: 210
I was expecting something heavy and more constructed to this season, but I like it. I actually never get over the "rock and roll YSL glamour" aesthetics so Im not exactly the right person to say if this is good or bad, but, knowing now that we gonna see this clothes everywhere next season Im happy that we are going to see very good clothes.

  Reply With Quote
Lola701's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: france
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,505
It's a good or decent show for what it is. It's inoffensive at best and forgettable at worst.
Anthony Vaccarello has always done that: black, skinny, Vogue Paris/Jean Colonna thing.
It all feels like a best-of already with some YSL 80's couture gowns cut into mini-skirts. That's it.
The 80's were some of the worst years of YSL IMO but i've always loved the way designers have reintroduced that in a modern way. This is just literal and lazy and ugly. Those colored dresses at the end kinda killed the whole show. Nobody wants to look like a throwback.

This show is very Parisienne, very Vogue Paris...
It doesn't add anything to the conversation. He is giving to people want they want and that's my problem. A designer should be able to challenge people and also himself. Unfortunately today, designers are only doing a "designer or expensive" version of everyday clothes.

He needs to stop putting menswear on the runway because that is his weakness. Hedi is an amazing menswear designer as much as he is (at least from what he showed) a mediocre womenswear designer.
I still prefer Vaccarello than Hedi as a womenswear designer because despite the lack of a very sharp vision, there's an effort of design even if it sometimes look a mess.

He hasn't shown a trench coat worn with a jean and a tank top and rainboots so, he still got my respect.

Ps: those platform boots are tacky!

  Reply With Quote
Nymphaea's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Europe
Gender: femme
Posts: 5,605
Originally Posted by guimon View Post
By far his worst and weakest collection yet. So unoriginal.
There's literally no direction here. It's a bunch of nothing, and it's all over the place. What a huge step back from his latest (very strong, imo) collection.

This is not even Fall/Winter enough for my taste. It could literally pass as a Spring/Summer collection. And the floral dresses at the end... What was that? Tragic ending, to a tragic collection.
+1 The previous collection was good, but this , could have been much better. The floral dresses at the end, burn them!

welcome to the inner workings of my mind
  Reply With Quote
mackos's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Suburbs
Gender: homme
Posts: 14,050
For some reason I liked most of it. Might be the music (which is always spot on) or simply the fact I didn't really feel that moved by any of the shows so far.

Also, don't judge me but I sort of loved the 80's dresses part. And I'm not the fan of the 80's to put it (really) mildly.

dreams, jazz and minimalism
  Reply With Quote
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lithuania
Gender: homme
Posts: 22
Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
I think this brand is on autopilot and living off the Hedi effect , but problem is when Hedi presents his collections at Celine which again will probably be renditions of 80s disco sluts and punk whores , how will Vacarello fare?
I really expect something new and different from Hedi at Celine and I really hope that he will not take the same direction there that he took at Saint Laurent, otherwise it would be both disaster for Celine and for Hedi,and for Saint Laurent too. I also hope Hedi would use more colours and more white, and will come up with completely fresh concepts he have not explored before. I am so tired of those black clothes already, of all that fake glitter, fake gold, poor quality and fits, of all that cold modernism...

Last edited by Aurimas; 28-02-2018 at 04:55 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Nomar's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2015
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,473
Not a great collection at all. Really just more of the same and everything begins to blur after a few looks. Don't even get me started on the menswear though....

  Reply With Quote
Fashionstuff's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Germany, Frankfurt
Gender: femme
Posts: 999
Very Hedi Slimane. Surely, Vaccarello did similar, skinny, mini, sexy and asymmetrical clothes before. Doing YSL he lost his obsession with this assymetrical pieces in every look. But where to order this flower dresses? Ugly.
Some looks are like Hedi did them by himself. Seems to be taken from Hedi's past YSL collections and droped direct to runway under YSLby Vaccarello.

  Reply With Quote
rising star
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Singapore
Gender: homme
Posts: 131
Originally Posted by Nocturnal View Post
He is very limited. Of course he should use archives but not in such literal way. This job is too serious for him. YSL needs a real designer not copycat... (Alber is still unemployed )
Yes yes... YSL needs Alber, someone who had worked alongside/interacted with the master himself, but would he wants to come back to the house given that he was pretty stress then (read that in some interview before)...?

  Reply With Quote
bc collector's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2006
Gender: homme
Posts: 38
YSL has proved to be a bad bitch of a house for most of the founder's successors, starting from Elbaz until Pilati. As much as he was undisputedly the most important designer of the second half of the 20th century, his heritage has proved tricky to deal with, maybe because so much of its power is linked to the air of the times (70s in particular). That's why I found pretty dull on Slimane's side to attempt to revive that era with stylistic choices that today, 40 years on, keep very little of the original charge, regardless of their commercial success.
As for Vaccarello, poor thing, he's not a bad designer himself but quite below the expected standard nonetheless. Of course the big heads at Kering knew exactly what they were looking for, certainly not someone with a more radical vision, who might have endangered the commercial momentum the brand is going through.

Last edited by bc collector; 07-03-2018 at 08:25 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Caffeine's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Williamsburg, NY
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,764
Originally Posted by zacatecas570 View Post
The floral dresses reminded me a little Balenciaga Spring 2008 and Fall 2009
agree 100%

  Reply With Quote
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

f or w, laurent, paris, saint
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:55 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2018 All rights reserved.