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12-10-2012
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lelaid's Avatar
 
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so i'm really confused, this is a diffusion line but is it supposed to be cheaper than the main line? or is it just clothes for skinny boys? i mean, don't get the wrong, i'm not planning on buying anything. if i want a denim jacket i can go to the gap, if i want a slouchy t-shirt i'll go with alexander wang, and if i want a leopard print shirt... wait, i'll never want a leopard print shirt...

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12-10-2012
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i don't think it's a diffusion line, just a line focusing on denim and skinny items.. i guess the nice thing is if you're not into that you can just skip that section at the boutique and vice versa..

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13-10-2012
  33
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I love everything Hedi is doing for the brand especially bringing youthfulness into it:p

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26-12-2012
  34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistress_f View Post
It's a bit naive to think that the clientele will radically chance based on the re-branding... afterall the big money comes from, guess who, rich housewives and wealthy businessman (and this is not only in places like Dior or YSL... I usually see old ladies shopping at more 'edgy' multibrand stores or places like Celine, Balenciaga...).

SLP won't only be sold in paris, london or la. Most of the cities that have a SL store even lack that rich it-girl / socialite / rockstar whatever type that this could interest. Speaking from my own point of view, living in Rome and working in the business, i know where the money of these big stores come from, and its not from a young clientele... that's only a small percentage (if any at all). I don't also foresee the company firing their old employers (what's wrong with an old s.a. by the way? they're always the best at their jobs, helpful, knowledgeable etc) to have punk rock skinny kids welcoming their years-long clientele. I know it would shut down immediately here... and i'm pretty sure in many other places.
This approach might work in hip cities but that's an irrelevant part looking at the big picture. Sure they could impose this new 'thing' but would it work? I doubt it... not everywhere.
i imagine it being popular in asia, same way dior homme was

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27-12-2012
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I've no problems with "skinny", it's just a silhouette after all, I have a problem with bland, uninspiring, been-there-done-that infantile-ism...oooh, I mean, "oh-so-cool-rockerstar". Sadly, Hedi Slimane is dating himself "Misshape (or whatever it was called) circa 2003", with this and his mainline YSL collection.


Last edited by Zazie; 27-12-2012 at 02:30 AM.
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27-12-2012
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Yves Saint Laurent must be rolling in the grave

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27-12-2012
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I can't tell if this is uninspiring because:
  1. Hedi's done all this before (and better)
  2. This is so badly photographed that you can't see what's good about the clothes
  3. These aren't interesting clothes
or all of the above.


If the clothes are more impressive in real life, though, I don't see any reason they won't sell, the look is still au courant on the streets.

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27-12-2012
  38
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you know it's not so much the idea of skinny silhouettes as it is the idea of the skinny silhouette becoming so done to death...almost becoming a standard shape these days leaving so little option for those of us who were not given bird legs. and yes hedi did kind of revolutionise the look. i think there is a way to capture youth in menswear without going to so much extremes. raf simons was able to do that and keep his silhouette lean but with volume. i remember in his first few seasons most of his trousers were usually wide or more classically tailored...and they still seem much more forgiving. hedi to me just seems very one-dimensional stylistically,imo.


Last edited by Scott; 28-12-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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27-12-2012
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Scott nailed it perfectly, the skinny look has been done TO DEATH. When something becomes so ubiquitous, it loses its appeal and charm and it has reached that phase now. Hedi's designs look stale and commercial because you can get the same look for a fraction of the price.

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28-12-2012
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I'm skinny myself and I'm always looking for size 0 clothing. This is amazing and I love the mood and vibe of this collection. This is true effortless-chic.

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29-12-2012
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it would be nice though if hedi completely proved everybody wrong and showed he does have more versatility,more balance and of course more range. he needs to be able to speak to a broader audience. otherwise this will only work for a marginal audience thus alienating a lot of loyal saint laurent clients/fans who don't look like that silhouette. and his tenure at saint laurent will never succeed.

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29-12-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangerine View Post
I can't tell if this is uninspiring because:
  1. Hedi's done all this before (and better)
  2. This is so badly photographed that you can't see what's good about the clothes
  3. These aren't interesting clothes
or all of the above.


If the clothes are more impressive in real life, though, I don't see any reason they won't sell, the look is still au courant on the streets.
I don't think the designs have to be interesting to be successful-- it's completely reliant on the Hedi trademark of skinny, indie-cred and the fabled Saint Laurent cache.

There will always be kids who looking for that coveted (anti-)status piece that they can wear every day, and those jean jackets fit that bill very nicely. They may not be able to afford a $5,000 suit-- or be interested in it, as it doesn't really fit in with their lifestyle, but jean jackets are timeless and an indie staple. Every generation has their status jean jacket, and the Hedi-vesion could just be this generation's.

Now, I'm not at all impressed that there's a devoted line to basics, as I think the jean pieces incorporated into the mainline would be much better status-branding, the way Dior Homme jeans were part of the mainline.... but, I'm sure that they feel a diffusion line will reach more people.

Scott: I think this is very commercial-- even to the point of generic, and it's the hook the line needs to be able to speak to a broader audience, as you said. Sure, it's a look that's the staple for the now-- but it has the prestige of the "Saint Laurent label by Hedi Slimane", and that in itself, is enough for a lot of people to want it.

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29-12-2012
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it's not the aesthetic i'm talking about but just the restrictive access to his work in terms of fit and cut. i don't mind his aesthete at all....it's a little redundant for me personally but it's his signature....i wish he would widen his ideals about what kind of guy covets such an aesthetic.

ann demeulemeester is another great example of a designer who employs a specific kind of look but in her range there is much more freedom. in other words different kinds of guys can in fact wear her clothes.

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30-12-2012
  44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phuel View Post
I don't think the designs have to be interesting to be successful-- it's completely reliant on the Hedi trademark of skinny, indie-cred and the fabled Saint Laurent cache.

There will always be kids who looking for that coveted (anti-)status piece that they can wear every day, and those jean jackets fit that bill very nicely. They may not be able to afford a $5,000 suit-- or be interested in it, as it doesn't really fit in with their lifestyle, but jean jackets are timeless and an indie staple. Every generation has their status jean jacket, and the Hedi-vesion could just be this generation's.

Now, I'm not at all impressed that there's a devoted line to basics, as I think the jean pieces incorporated into the mainline would be much better status-branding, the way Dior Homme jeans were part of the mainline.... but, I'm sure that they feel a diffusion line will reach more people.

Scott: I think this is very commercial-- even to the point of generic, and it's the hook the line needs to be able to speak to a broader audience, as you said. Sure, it's a look that's the staple for the now-- but it has the prestige of the "Saint Laurent label by Hedi Slimane", and that in itself, is enough for a lot of people to want it.

Well circa 2005-6, these looks were very novel and you could not find them everywhere. I am sure Hedi is talented but problem is he is so fixated with a look which has become so mass produced now and well boring, it ends up looking like topman or river island with an exorbitant price tag. There is no prestige in buying something "Saint Laurent label by Hedi Slimane" when you can get the exact kind of clothes at your current high street shop for a fraction of the price.

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30-12-2012
  45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
There is no prestige in buying something "Saint Laurent label by Hedi Slimane" when you can get the exact kind of clothes at your current high street shop for a fraction of the price.
..except you can't get the "exact kind of clothes at your current high street shop for a fraction of the price".. you might get similar "skinny" style, but without the exquisite tailor ship, construction & material anyone who's owned a dior homme garment knows makes the difference in between the real thing and an imitation. this holds especially true in footwear & outer wear which are rarely well executed in high street brands.. i do however agree it isn't terribly innovating and feels a little "deja vu" but i hate the criticism it doesn't feel "luxurious" simply because the aesthetic is understatement and has basics such as denim. anyways we've been through this before.. high fashion doesn't have to be bling & logos to feel luxurious, but that very definition seems to carry a rather diverging significance in this forum

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