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30-12-2012
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but without the exquisite tailor ship, construction & material anyone who's owned a dior homme garment knows makes the difference in between the real thing and an imitation.
Possibly true, but have you seen the clothes of this particular line in person?

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30-12-2012
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Originally Posted by Scott View Post
it's not the aesthetic i'm talking about but just the restrictive access to his work in terms of fit and cut. i don't mind his aesthete at all....it's a little redundant for me personally but it's his signature....i wish he would widen his ideals about what kind of guy covets such an aesthetic.

ann demeulemeester is another great example of a designer who employs a specific kind of look but in her range there is much more freedom. in other words different kinds of guys can in fact wear her clothes.
"We should drop for good this predictable story each season, about a lean and youthful male figure versus conventional men's wear and male proportions. There is obviously room for everything....Besides, an athletic man, or whatever you want to call him, will only look good in a very classic suit, a pair of classic jeans, athletic clothes or simply naked. Forget fashion. This is not going to happen, unless you want to look like a Chippendales dancer in designer clothes."

-Hedi

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30-12-2012
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Originally Posted by Izreal View Post
..except you can't get the "exact kind of clothes at your current high street shop for a fraction of the price".. you might get similar "skinny" style, but without the exquisite tailor ship, construction & material anyone who's owned a dior homme garment knows makes the difference in between the real thing and an imitation. this holds especially true in footwear & outer wear which are rarely well executed in high street brands.. i do however agree it isn't terribly innovating and feels a little "deja vu" but i hate the criticism it doesn't feel "luxurious" simply because the aesthetic is understatement and has basics such as denim. anyways we've been through this before.. high fashion doesn't have to be bling & logos to feel luxurious, but that very definition seems to carry a rather diverging significance in this forum
I had a chance to see some of his new clothes, and its not a question of luxury, its a question of stale clothes. When your at the helm of a house like YSL, there are certain standards which are expected, its not about tailoring or materials, but being ahead of the fashion curve. If your producing clothes which look stale and redundant thats fine at Diesel but at YSL a different level of mastery and vision is required .

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30-12-2012
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^
This,

I can't believe people are going to actually tolerate having to pay for these dated looking garments, regardless of the tailoring and materials this isn't exactly what I would expect the House to approve of, he might as well have done his own label and had nothing to do with YSL.

Everytime I visit the website to see the clothes, I honestly scan through it within seconds, it's so boring. He's just going to get really comfortable with doing the same crap over and over like Tom Ford, which is the person he has become. Gaudi slut clothes by Tom and emo skinny clothes by Hedi.

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30-12-2012
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riiight.. because pilati's vision of basics and accessories was so forward thinking and non tacky











Last edited by Izreal; 30-12-2012 at 01:30 PM.
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30-12-2012
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^^ You going ahead to pick up a very small fraction of Pilati's basics (which he might have had very little to do with) does not prove that Heidi is any better. These images you have put up do not define Pilati's YSL basics at all and Pilati didn't turn them into an unnecessary capsule collection. Secondly, I do not find any of those tacky. Because you do not like them does not mean they are tacky. I mean, what's wrong with a sexy woman and a YSL logo being meshed together to adorn a basic T-shirt?? I have a couple of those basics and there are certainly well made with good quality materials and no where near tacky IMHO.

Bottom line is that skinny silhouette's are no longer in vogue. At least not to the point that you'd create and market a capsule collection bearing the word "SKINNY". I myself would still wear skinny stuff but I wouldn't go out of my way to look for ball-grabbing pants like I did 4 years ago.

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30-12-2012
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Izreal do you really think that Pillati designed all that stuff?

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30-12-2012
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Originally Posted by ogepma View Post
^^ You going ahead to pick up a very small fraction of Pilati's basics (which he might have had very little to do with) does not prove that Heidi is any better. These images you have put up do not define Pilati's YSL basics at all and Pilati didn't turn them into an unnecessary capsule collection. Secondly, I do not find any of those tacky. Because you do not like them does not mean they are tacky. I mean, what's wrong with a sexy woman and a YSL logo being meshed together to adorn a basic T-shirt?? I have a couple of those basics and there are certainly well made with good quality materials and no where near tacky IMHO.

Bottom line is that skinny silhouette's are no longer in vogue. At least not to the point that you'd create and market a capsule collection bearing the word "SKINNY". I myself would still wear skinny stuff but I wouldn't go out of my way to look for ball-grabbing pants like I did 4 years ago.
Totally agree!

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30-12-2012
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Izreal do you really think that Pillati designed all that stuff?
probably, if not him his assistant or his creative team which he hired... same thing. it's what ends up for sale at ysl under his direction. i can guarantee you those designs would never ever make it past hedi's supervision..

@ogepma: i don't mean to insult your taste but in my opinion those are amongst the tackiest designs in high fashion.. ever.. but i am not a fan of the current italian designers outside of a select few.. perhaps it is time for you and pilati lovers to move on?

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30-12-2012
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It's not about to be a Pilati's fan, it's about how, for certain people, Heidi is making some bad choices about YSL, this is one.

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30-12-2012
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Originally Posted by Izreal View Post
@ogepma: i don't mean to insult your taste but in my opinion those are amongst the tackiest designs in high fashion.. ever.. but i am not a fan of the current italian designers outside of a select few.. perhaps it is time for you and pilati lovers to move on?
You may think it tacky and that's fine as you are entitled to your opinion, but at the end of the day, that's just what it is; your opinion. And it certainly does not define what good or bad taste is as that's entirely a subjective matter but in terms of tackiness due to the quality of the products, I would have to disagree. And as I said earlier on, picking a few pictures of basic YSL stuff from Pilati's era does not in any way define his aesthetic for the house and that's a fact. I have moved on with respect to Pilati's departure. I cannot wait to see what he does at Zegna, better still, Agnona as he does not have the burden of a legacy hanging over his head. Because I do not agree with you and Hedi on the current direction YSL is going does not mean I am not over Pilati's depature. This is a forum and everyone is entitled to criticize, analyse or praise whenever they see fit. Perhaps it's time you realize that to. no?





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31-12-2012
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For me, the stronger designers convey a certain identity with each collection, Miucia Prada seems to be channeling a 60s Italian actress, and Pilati, with his feminine but structured and occasionally severe volume, a Catherine Deneuve or Tina Chow, etc. but Slimane seems to be channeling Rachel Zoe dressing up as Francoise Hardy or Misshapes as Jean Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon, so the effect is more derivative, LA Hipster than iconic.

Of course the best of them, MM, RS, NG, HS, etc. come up with their own original visions, entirely new and exciting creatures, which place them in a different league. So Slimane disappoints.

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31-12-2012
  58
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Originally Posted by Izreal View Post
riiight.. because pilati's vision of basics and accessories was so forward thinking and non tacky









Hello Izreal, please write the source of your pictures otherwise it'll have to be deleted. Thank you.

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31-12-2012
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Originally Posted by ogepma View Post
This is a forum and everyone is entitled to criticize, analyse or praise whenever they see fit. Perhaps it's time you realize that to. no?
indeed, however some members have been endlessly repeating their disapproval of hedi's direction with the same tiring arguments (topshop, misshapes, boho-chic etc) some before even the first collection was presented. i understand the fans are upset, but the decision has been made, pilati out, hedi in. people need to get on board or move on imo. i know it may sound harsh but it's the reality, pilati won't come back no matter how much the whining. i'm not saying constructive criticism isn't welcome btw, but the ad-nauseam repeat of certain remarks is tiring to say the least (even if i myself agree on some points). anyways the first mens runway collection is only 3 weeks away from now so i'm just taking the pulse here for what i'm sure will be some vivid conversation pieces..

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01-01-2013
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As for skinny vs volume, after years of this anorexic silhouette, it looks like volume is going to stay for a while. Even Rick Owens and Theyskens, who did skinny for many many years now, are going for a fuller, more relaxed silhouette. Christophe Lemaire did it best at Hermes, where a minimalist, classic aesthetic is evolving new timeless stylish clothes that transcend fashion.

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