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01-01-2013
  61
Stitch:the Hand
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleach View Post
"We should drop for good this predictable story each season, about a lean and youthful male figure versus conventional men's wear and male proportions. There is obviously room for everything....Besides, an athletic man, or whatever you want to call him, will only look good in a very classic suit, a pair of classic jeans, athletic clothes or simply naked. Forget fashion. This is not going to happen, unless you want to look like a Chippendales dancer in designer clothes."

-Hedi
sorry but i find this a very a narrowminded viewpoint. you're basically saying that there's only two types of guys. skinny and muscular guys,no in-between. you do realize there are in fact leaner physiques between those two shapes,non? and and you're attitude that those guys can't do fashion is egregiously ignorant if not fascistic. dries,yohji,CdG,margiela et al,all make clothes for real shapes beyond your blind notion of who fashion is for.

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01-01-2013
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^ i suspect that was actually a hedi quote

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
As for skinny vs volume, after years of this anorexic silhouette, it looks like volume is going to stay for a while. Even Rick Owens and Theyskens, who did skinny for many many years now, are going for a fuller, more relaxed silhouette. Christophe Lemaire did it best at Hermes, where a minimalist, classic aesthetic is evolving new timeless stylish clothes that transcend fashion.
we are going around in circles here... i already posted in the other saint laurent thread that hedi's final collection at dior homme was full of drop crotch pants, oversized tops and other non hug fitting pieces.. furthermore i can definitely spot volume in the SS13 womenswear debut runway collection.. obviously the skinny line will be as it's name implies but that also means the main line will not necessarily be all about the "anorexic silhouette" although let's face it the model industry is what it is no matter what designer..

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01-01-2013
  63
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
sorry but i find this a very a narrowminded viewpoint. you're basically saying that there's only two types of guys. skinny and muscular guys,no in-between. you do realize there are in fact leaner physiques between those two shapes,non? and and you're attitude that those guys can't do fashion is egregiously ignorant if not fascistic. dries,yohji,CdG,margiela et al,all make clothes for real shapes beyond your blind notion of who fashion is for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Izreal View Post
^ i suspect that was actually a hedi quote
yeah, that was a quote from an interview with Hedi

although i do kind of see his point


Last edited by bleach; 01-01-2013 at 09:07 PM.
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01-01-2013
  64
Stitch:the Hand
 
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sorry for the misinterpretation guys. still that quote is absurdly elitist.

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01-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
sorry for the misinterpretation guys. still that quote is absurdly elitist.
here's another :p

Quote:
Has being a photographer given you a more objective view of the fashion industry?
Hedi Slimane: It seems quite refreshing to be on this side of fashion, to have the distance and freedom. The fashion system has been busy keeping up with broadband and blogging/social networking. It is not always for the best, but it did give fashion a global audience. The unfortunate outcome might be the obsession and collusion between the celebrity culture and high fashion. It is just a big global mess of random endorsement. Nothing looks worse than a dress or a suit on a red carpet. It is an ongoing tragedy of cheap fashion on cheap celebrities, followed by ubercheap comments. I only like designersí clothes on models. Good models have an inner understanding of the clothes and design.

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01-01-2013
  66
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^ lmao said the guy who lent his first runway sample to lady gaga.

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02-01-2013
  67
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Quote:
Nothing looks worse than a dress or a suit on a red carpet. It is an ongoing tragedy of cheap fashion on cheap celebrities, followed by ubercheap comments. I only like designers’ clothes on models. Good models have an inner understanding of the clothes and design.
I can't even..
I don't think alienating potential customers (aka average people) with a snobbish and delusional attitude like this is gonna help his rep and the YSL brand, at all.


Last edited by Morphe; 02-01-2013 at 10:20 AM.
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02-01-2013
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Hedi has a very openly hostile, unlikeable, elitist attitude when it comes to what his ideal is for high fashion, so I don't think being accommodating to more varying physiques was something he ever strived for, obviously. I did admire his aesthetic when he lead the way, although I would be one of those men he deems not his ideal for high fashion.

I don't think there's anything wrong when he only recognizes the extreme ideal male physiques-- skinny and muscular. He is dealing in high fashion after all, not department-store clothes, so his extreme views are understandable, within the context of his ivory tower. Of course these two aren't the only body types for men, but they're the two most ideal ones that accentuate/celebrate the male body. I think he may very well be comparing what he does as superior to the likes of DSquared2 when he referenced "Chippendales in designer clothes".

With this jeanswear/diffusion line, I think he/they are just aiming for basics that will sell on the back of the YSL/Hedi hype and clout. "Skinny" may be standard-fare now, or even passe to the fashion victims who have moved on to volume, but to the majority of people, it's still an extreme aesthetic in fashion; just like high street is "high fashion" to many. And isn't that what jeanswear lines/diffusion lines are about: Designs that more more mass-appropriate? And to be frank, that jean jacket does look very appealing to me, whether or not I will fit into it without it looking like it's painted on me (which is something I don't prefer in my clothes), is another matter.

Despite Hedi's ugly attitude, I don't mind that he's still doing his skinny thing-- at least he's committed; now he needs to evolve. Hopefully, he'll show some/more versatility in the next collections, and progress from this signature silhouette of his. He may be stubbornly still clinging onto skinny, but if he's able to make it relevant to the times instead of remaining in 2005, then that's much more exciting and skillful to me than the likes of Wang, Proenza, Gurung and all those clones that do nothing but copy the Europeans while keeping on trend.

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02-01-2013
  69
Stitch:the Hand
 
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i actually would agree with him about the celebrity world but like mistress_f pointed out as well,somehow it comes off as disingenuous given a lot of his actions. it's really rather hypocritical.

but like you were saying phuel,that's always been my issue with hedi....his unwillingness to evolve even within his own set of ideals. it's not even about his aesthetic really. a lot of designers,some that i pointed out earlier,have their own style and they often remain very true to that style but they also continuously move forward with their ranges. hedi so far has not done that. he caters to that victim nonsense. as far as the two ideals,what i find so funny in that particular diatribe is that most of the men who buy fashion these days really do not fit into either of those two moulds.

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02-01-2013
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Haha...sometimes a certain "look" is simply PASSE...period. The fashion victim is the one who is stuck in his old mode, unable to SEE or move with the changing times, or to evolve new and different perspectives. Someone appears to be *dated*, still thinks "Skinny" automatically means "Fashion"...When the Editors unanimously stopped in their tracks, perplexed, not "getting it", then maybe it's not the world that is wrong.


Last edited by Zazie; 02-01-2013 at 11:49 AM.
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02-01-2013
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i was going to respond something similar to phuel but he pretty much nailed it on the head. no matter how controversial those concepts may be they are not at all surprising in the context of the world a designer like hedi lives in. furthermore one should bare minimal importance towards these subjective viewpoints... i also suspect those quotes may be taken slightly outside of context as i'm sure they were meant within the runway/ad fashion world, anyways i see how some could view these comments as hypocritical but hedi has always proclaimed his love for music and artists are a great source of inspiration to him. i think i remember reading an interview in which he said lady gaga wasn't really his type of music/aestethic but he liked her identity and they became friends or something like that.. i think his red carpet comment was meant towards B-celebs & actors.. you know the whole E! television star system which i kind of agree is "cheap fashion on cheap celebrities".. but again none of these views really matter much, anyone is free to make fashion their own statement.. for example i'm sure ralph lauren or tommy hilfiger didn't have the urban community in mind (quite the opposite actually) yet folks didn't hesitate to appropriate the look, such ironies sometimes happen in fashion.. as for the "skinny" look being dated, i think there are still a few ways to make it look fresh/modern while keeping the aesthetic or maybe slimane has something else in mind yet for the sake of continuity decided to pick up where he left off..

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02-01-2013
  72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izreal View Post
i was going to respond something similar to phuel but he pretty much nailed it on the head. no matter how controversial those concepts may be they are not at all surprising in the context of the world a designer like hedi lives in. furthermore one should bare minimal importance towards these subjective viewpoints... i also suspect those quotes may be taken slightly outside of context as i'm sure they were meant within the runway/ad fashion world, anyways i see how some could view these comments as hypocritical but hedi has always proclaimed his love for music and artists are a great source of inspiration to him. i think i remember reading an interview in which he said lady gaga wasn't really his type of music/aestethic but he liked her identity and they became friends or something like that.. i think his red carpet comment was meant towards B-celebs & actors.. you know the whole E! television star system which i kind of agree is "cheap fashion on cheap celebrities".. but again none of these views really matter much, anyone is free to make fashion their own statement.. for example i'm sure ralph lauren or tommy hilfiger didn't have the urban community in mind (quite the opposite actually) yet folks didn't hesitate to appropriate the look, such ironies sometimes happen in fashion.. as for the "skinny" look being dated, i think there are still a few ways to make it look fresh/modern while keeping the aesthetic or maybe slimane has something else in mind yet for the sake of continuity decided to pick up where he left off..
I appreciate that you post in a civil manner towards the criticisms, kudos to you. *. It is very limiting to make a physical trait a "fashion statement", style and fashion are much more than that, and they change as times change, however, they should reflect or inspire the future.

What I find puzzling is Slimane limiting himself while others, some of whom I mentioned, are pushing boundaries. CdG, for example, is worn by all sorts, *, young and old, some collections are thin and pared down, others blown out of proportion, no one ever questions if she's "stuck", because she isn't, yet she has her own recognizable style, her signature. Ditto Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, NG for Balenciaga. I can also think of many other superstar designers who got into a rut and burn out. Hope Slimane's not one of them.

It could boil down to Slimane's own attitude, which does matter. When you feel you know it all, you lose the hunger to learn, to see clearly around you, to create, as you put yourself on a pedestal and believe in your own bs. That unfortunately results inevitably in mediocre work.

I also find his comments about "cheap fashion and celebrities" bizarre, not only by the irony of Lady Gaga wearing his samples, as mistress f pointed out...this phenomenon is so obvious, not even something in the conversation of those who reach a certain level of fashion. Can't imagine the fashion greats getting remotely bothered by this perennial parade - they are simply focused on their own creations.


Last edited by MulletProof; 02-01-2013 at 02:43 PM. Reason: weight policy.
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02-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
as far as the two ideals,what i find so funny in that particular diatribe is that most of the men who buy fashion these days really do not fit into either of those two moulds.
I don't know Scott: I don't know too many big men who wear designer clothes... And let's not forget that the young Asian market worshipped Dior Homme. I don't know if that's still the case in 2013, but I never saw pear-shaped guys wearing Dior Homme back in the 00s. The only pieces I own of Hedi's Dior Homme are some jeans-- all 21cm versions and some belts. But I do own clothes (none of that tacky stuff [circa 2007?], you posted Izreal!), even suits from Pilati's YSL line. And I still think Hedi's much more stronger as a visionary than Pilati, but Pilati designs clothes that-- well, look better on me.

I do like Hedi's anti-celebrity/Hollywood stance. I mean, look at all the threads on this forum oooohhhhing-and-aaaahhhhing about which star is wearing whom... but then he goes and lends his "skinny models only" SL collection to Gaga... But to be fair, she is a friend-- and it's nice to think maybe he didn't want to say no to his unattractive, pudgy BFF? Maybe he just needs to adopt a bit of charm and tact when he speaks-- instead of coming of as a 15-year-old Mean Girl, and that's completely not amusing, or charming coming from a 40-something man.

Zazie: If you were responding to my post, my point is so so many people will move to the next hot "look" and completely throw out and dismiss the previous hot look-- the expression "throwing the baby out along with the bathwater" comes to mind, calling it passe just because fashion tells them so: That's the definition of a fashion victim to me. Yes, I agree that wearing a complete "look-of-the-moment" with no individual style will become dated quickly-- not to mention many others will also look the same as you. But a slim, immaculately-cut and constructed jacket and pants will never go out of style when it fits you well, so why throw it out in favour of a boxy, voluminous version just because that's the look of the moment? The truly stylish individual will know how to adapt * to the ever-changing fashion climate without being a mindless clone


Last edited by MulletProof; 02-01-2013 at 02:44 PM. Reason: weight policy.
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02-01-2013
  74
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Guys, watch out for weight talk please, I had to edit out a bit (sorry about that) but we usually remove posts for a lot less, I know it's tricky in this particular discussion, but I don't know.. there must be a way to get around certain topics without making it too blatant..

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02-01-2013
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Stitch:the Hand
 
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^trying so hard not to get into that subject.

what i mean is phuel is that the majority of men typically fall into the middle of those ideals. i rarely ever see that american jock ideal and those within hedi's sphere are such a small market. you know,the irony of it all is that when he was at dior homme his whole approach created a largely female fanbase. a lot of women,especially in the west,were wearing his clothes more than men.

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