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01-10-2012
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NYT review

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01-10-2012
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^ LOL. That's not a review! It's a description of what went on, but there's absolutely no comment on the clothes whatsoever. Which says a lot. Also, why am I not suprised that Diane VF and Dundas love it?

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01-10-2012
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Quote:
Franca Sozzani, the editor of Italian Vogue, said it was “very Saint Laurent, and if you loved Saint Laurent, you cannot not love it.”
have merci Franca

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01-10-2012
  154
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Another review by Eric Wilson in which he talks in circles. He reported more on the attendance, less on the clothes.

This collection is sad. Stuck in the past (04/05) and on a trend that should never have been revived. I wish I could remember who said it, as I'm not sure whether it's a designer or celeb, but the term "Boho / Hippie Chic" is an oxymoron. There is nothing chic or fashionable about being "Boho" or "Hippie" in fashion. It's a passing fad that should have stayed in the past...

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01-10-2012
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Quote:
Underwhelming debut for Yves Saint Laurent's new designer Hedi Slimane

PARIS - When fashion editors put down their pens halfway through a catwalk show, it's always cause for worry.
This was the case at Hedi Slimane's disappointing debut at Yves Saint Laurent — a rather confused ode to excess that used fringing, leather, lacing, tassels, feathers, sequins, pendants, skinny menswear tailoring, baggy pants, cinching cummerbunds, capes, tribal pendants and almost everything else under the sun.
That's not to mention an oversized black and white coat that could have been worn by Cruella de Ville.
Pierre Berge, Saint Laurent's former partner, speaking ahead of the show said: "(Slimane) knows the Saint Laurent DNA, the spirit."
There was definitely a nod to that. For example, black silk neckbows, a house signature that was used as a leitmotif. But the collection lacked the empowering sex appeal that made Saint Laurent one of the most famous names in fashion.
The bows, rather symbolically, instead of unifying the collection, fought with other busy materials for attention.
Unflattering floppy Stetson hats capped it off, sometimes blocking out the models' faces.
The pressure on the former Dior Homme designer Slimane — who was appointed in March — has probably been huge.
International media have pitted Slimane in a battle of designers against Christian Dior's new man, Raf Simons, who was appointed a month later.
Slimane took a gamble on the no-holds-barred approach to impress, but somehow fell short of the mark in his basic silhouette.
Many individual garments — like one sumptuous look with side a spread of black feathers — were highly creative. But they often didn't work as an ensemble.
The plumes' dynamic horizontal energy was drowned out by the bow, as it was in other looks, with fringing and over accessorizing.
Slimane pulled it off well when he wasn't trying too hard: A classy skinny menswear pant looked great with a sharp shouldered tuxedo — and a spot on merging of YSL and Slimane's own personal style.
The best look — again simple — was a sexy waist length jacket in beige crepe with silver stripes and chic long black leather gloves.
Had he kept it cleaner, Slimane might not have given the upper hand so easily to his Dior rival.
___
Thomas Adamson can be followed at http:/ /Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP
Says a lot. Also, the panel at ShowStudio were disappointed. I cannot wait to see what Horyn and Suzy come up with.

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01-10-2012
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I'm like 70% loving this because 1. It's Hedi. There's something about his aesthetic and his clothes that I just love. 2. Some pieces look quite cool.
BUT, the issue is that it's just lackluster for his debut collection for the label. I mean, the rock 'n' roll suits were expected, no? My issue isn't that, but more with those bohemian dresses. They're so 2006-2008. They aren't fresh at all, which is what I was expecting here. If anything, those gowns were mundane. I was hoping there was an element of surprise, since Hedi did take like 5 years off from designing. I do appreciate that it's wearable and very YSL with those peasant tops and all, but this just didn't really cut it for me. I'm loving the Betty Catroux inspiration though.

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Last edited by LagerfeldBoy; 01-10-2012 at 06:33 PM.
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01-10-2012
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wwd review:

Quote:
Some of us will never know what it’s like to be preceded by a reputation for utter cool. God, it must be great to have done whatever it was you did that got you to earn that status, and to have been duly recognized for such. But (in the cry-me-a-river category) it must also carry a downside: the constant pressure to live up to advance billing.

Hedi Slimane’s much-anticipated debut at Saint Laurent had all the markings of a cool fest: first, the migration of his design studio to L.A.; the tweaking of house name and logo, and then, in the lead-up to his show on Monday night, the endless chirping about whom would sit where, which editors-in-chief had been scuttled to the second row and on and on. At the show, designers including Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci and Vivienne Westwood turned out to lend support while Old Guard YSL loyalists Pierre Bergé and Betty Catroux sat across the runway from the likes of Kate Moss and Jessica Chastain. This occurred in an intimate Grande Palais salon, its walls covered in black tenting, the ceiling black as well until the overture of sorts when an intense light show got started and two rows of ceiling panels retracted to reveal additional lighting and sound equipment that was then lowered over the runway.

Cool fest alert? Did Slimane offer a new, stunning prescription for edgy chic funneled through the Saint Laurent lexicon? Not even close. Rather, he filtered sweet homage through an L.A., rock-loving lens (or possibly, a pitch to dress some of Rachel Zoe’s skinniest clients). It was interesting to the point of odd. First look out: small black jacket; skinny black pants; white frilled shirt; big, soft bow at the neck; bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of the same — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripes and from cotton to silk and back — and of a second theme, Saint Laurent flou, every look under major chapeau shade. On one level it charmed, but what to make of it all? Perhaps that within his two primary points, Slimane incorporated house codes to be developed in future forays: Tailoring. Smoking. Gypsy tiers. Languid evenings. Saharienne. Animal spots. Chubby. Demonstrative jewelry. The only thing missing throughout was color, and that appeared sparingly in his evening finale.

Costumey though it was — and this was a costume parade, delivered either with reverence unblemished by irony or with a sense of irony too highly developed for all but the most anthropologically astute to get — there was considerable takeaway. Given the proverbial “broken-down” treatment, the clothes were good: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which on their own won’t scream retro and, to a lesser degree, gowns that women will want to wear. Often. Which means herein could be the building blocks for the kind of business YSL has in mind. According to sources, the company aspires to 1 billion euros in sales by the end of this decade.

Slimane’s part in achieving that goal speaks to the role of the creative director in today’s brand-oriented reality. At a major luxury house intent upon exploding its global market share, is it more important for the designer-creative director to advance fashion, to offer new prescriptions, to challenge, or to make understandably stylish clothes with which there may already be a familiarity factor? Though the two can coexist, they’re not the most naturally simpatico companions. At Saint Laurent, Slimane owns complete oversight of all things creative, from advertising to store design to the dimensions of the shoebox. Perhaps upcoming on his to-do list will be finding a seamless fusion of fashion, comfort and risk.


Last edited by kimair; 01-10-2012 at 10:15 PM. Reason: posting because it's a subscription based publication
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01-10-2012
  158
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Higher quality pictures from WWD


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01-10-2012
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01-10-2012
  160
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I'm in love with this collection I see I bright future for ysl

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01-10-2012
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01-10-2012
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01-10-2012
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01-10-2012
  164
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practically the same dress again and again and again zzz

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01-10-2012
  165
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Nothing to say that hasn't already been said. Talk about a dud.

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