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01-10-2012
  181
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^ those closing were pretty powerful. I don't think having 14 differently colored versions of the same dress on the catwalk compares, even the dolce and gabbana closures - that revolve around the same idea - have more effect - but maybe i'll have to see a video of this - given that mr. slimane will allow it to be released - to judge it better

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01-10-2012
  182
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One dress ten times in a collection seems redundant.

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01-10-2012
  183
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Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2013


Last edited by maxlinden; 01-10-2012 at 07:29 PM.
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01-10-2012
  184
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Truth be told, the only successful RTW created for YSL was under Tom Ford. After his departure, the company shifted to an accessory house due to Pilati's inconsistencies. Maybe what the house needs is another Tom Ford type? An individual who creates something completely new while still retaining "house" references.

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01-10-2012
  185
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I've looked over this collection numerous times, trying to really give it a chance to settle in, and my opinion is no different than it was the first time I looked at it. This is a very underwhelming and dated collection, debut or not.
Was I apart of the crowd moaning over the antics Hedi has been up to since he was appointed the position? Hell yes! They were, and still are, very pompous and unnecessary. But before this season's shows began I put it all aside and accepted this was a new era for the brand and it's time to move on. Then he gives us this, and I'm back to square one, annoyed with all the changes and PR stunts he made.
This collection was just bad, YSL or not. There is nothing modern about it, just an array of archival pieces thrown at us. Those who said what Stefano created wasn't very YSL (a criticism I could never agree with), they should be pleased with this, because it is so YSL, you have to check if you're in the right decade. But as dated as the collection may be, there were some magnificent pieces if you have the energy to dig under the try-hard styling. The pants were tailored to absolute perfection, and leather jackets are also worth noting.
I wasn't a follower or dedicated fan of Stefano, but after this, I miss him dearly. Maybe it's just me, but I found his woman to be strong, chic, and glamorous, a YSL woman. Can't say the same about the woman Hedi presented today.
But I guess someone did win today, Kate Moss and Rachel Zoe will be itching to get their hands on these pieces. There's always a bright side

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01-10-2012
  186
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As someone who's never worn long-sleeved dresses or maxi skirts or even pined after the slim pantsuits that so defined Slimane's aesthetic, I am surprised by how much I enjoyed this. The re-imagined Le Smoking are amazing, particularly the pants. The peasant dresses are mesmerizingly floaty. I don't think it deserves to be compared to Cavalli or Gucci; their prints are generally ugly.

I can do without the overtly western pieces though, like the suede looks and the leather peasant top and the fur coat.

I think this collection will dominate the editorial pages and the red carpets, though I want to see it styled without the ***** bow and the wide belt. Get ready for an onslaught of long-sleeved gowns. It will be a major scoop to be the first to wear that floral peasant dress with the obi belt.

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01-10-2012
  187
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As for Dior, i think people have too high expectations (I included) ... Because they are two famous fashion people working for HUGE historic contemporary and modern fashion houses ...
Though I cannot picture really what was each expectations ... What do you really expect when it's someone debuts for an historic Parisian house ? That they digest the archives ? They modernize the archives ? They update the feeling to nowadays society ?

I think Hedi manages his task ...

Comparing to Pilati, for the moment I can tell for sure I prefer Pilati.

What I feel is that Monsieur Slimane spends a lot of time in LA - where Rachel Zoe lives ... Hel-loooo ... Smells a lot Ms Zoe and her customers ... Gypsy+rock chic ... Though black isn't a LA color scheme from what I know ... But that's the Parisian touch ...

Overall the collection isn't bad. I see totally YSL Morocco period ... And I can see a lot of girls wearing this ...

It's a bit repetitive, but Slimane isn't known for someone who has a wide range of influences ... When he was in Paris it was the teens hanging at Le Pop'In, the Berlin punk scene ... N now the Zoe-Hobo style of LA ... That makes sense ...


Last edited by BerlinRocks; 01-10-2012 at 08:15 PM.
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01-10-2012
  188
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Firstly I want to say, there is NOTHING wrong with Boho, its a lifestyle and many woman do and love this aesthetic. I myself love clothes with a Bohemian vibe. The problem with this collection is that is it is lazy, repetitive, and offers nothing new. For a high street store, clothes like this would fly off the racks, but the problem is this is suppose to be one of the top fashion houses of Paris, and it does not live up to those standards. Many Italian designers do boho inspired clothes but they put a fresh, unique and futuristic feel to it. What shocked me was how many of the same severely cut skinny pants can you send out pairted with a tie bow blouse, it got creepy after a point. Well in fairness these clothes will sell very well thats for sure, because it has a Cali vibe to it, and surprisingly he designs in Los Angeles and its shows.


Last edited by disco54; 01-10-2012 at 08:23 PM.
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01-10-2012
  189
Power to the 99%
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdieselx View Post
I agree with one of the previous posts. This is all hype. I was also expecting something more. I think it's nothing exciting. I miss Stefano. I'm slightly reminded of Alber's previous collections in Lanvin but Alber did it infinitely better.

The shoes leave me cold. this is a cotton candy collection. might seem okay but really there's nothing there.
I think maybe everyone is right. It doesn't look like genius to me so far either, but ... maybe he doesn't need to be cracking out the genius (if in fact he has it on tap) the very first time out. Maybe he's doing exactly what he needs to be doing ... showing he gets the legacy, and bringing something of his own that's also familiar to the table. There is perhaps a genius in taking it slow, and doing what the moment calls for ... that's the kind of genius that doesn't get you fired.

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01-10-2012
  190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
Firstly I want to say, there is NOTHING wrong with Boho, its a lifestyle and many woman do and love this aesthetic. I myself love clothes with a Bohemian vibe. The problem with this collection is that is it is lazy, repetitive, and offers nothing new. For a high street store, clothes like this would fly off the racks, but the problem is this is suppose to be one of the top fashion houses of Paris, and it does not live up to those standards. Many Italian designers do boho inspired clothes but they put a fresh, unique and futuristic feel to it. What shocked me was how many of the same severely cut skinny pants can you send out pairted with a tie bow blouse, it got creepy after a point. Well in fairness these clothes will sell very well thats for sure, because it has a Cali vibe to it, and surprisingly he designs in Los Angeles and its shows.
Actually, I find it rather strange that he is designing from LA, he should stay in paris while doing ysl.

anyways, I find this collection to be a little too messy, I really enjoyed his men'swear lines and thought they're cool, now I think he might be a little overrated...

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01-10-2012
  191
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ok ... so people ... Slimane isn't a designer like one who would create a revolution - like YSL, Dior, Cardin etc. have done. he is one of the designers that is an ART DIRECTOR ! he is about a look and go on on the runways ...
We are not in a time where everyone can be Rei, Martin or Yohji .... He can only set underground trends/scene trends to mass trends .... Thats it !

Serioulsy what did you expect ?

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01-10-2012
  192
MON
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Beautiful. But it`s not what I expected as a primer collection from Hedi after the SL hype. It`s still beautiful though.


It reminds me of Hermes F/W 2010...

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01-10-2012
  193
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Sorry but I hate this collection The most boring YSL (or SL) collection I've ever seen. Doesn't even scream "YSL" to me.

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01-10-2012
  194
Vision of Paradise
 
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I love this collection.

But, I'm also the type of girl who hunts for that perfect piece of vintage Rive Gauche. I own pieces from the original Rive gauche and I cherish them! Go ahead and call me out dated. In my opinion, nothing is more chic than a vintage Saint Laurent blouse. This is everything that I wanted and expected. If I can't have or find that holy grail YSL piece, thank you Hedi for recreating it. Why? Because, I love Saint Laurent that much. For example, I found the black leather mini safari jacket perfectly Saint Laurent AND perfectly Slimane... that's modern enough for me. When I look at the presentation I see the clothes for what they are. Nothing more and nothing less. I dont need a runway presentation to dictate the way I wear clothing, either. I dress according to my mood, anyway- not trends. And just because I like the collection doesn't mean I'm going to be a runway clone with the total look. I guess this collection was more for people like me. The same way people are bored and disgusted by this collection is the same way I feel towards Celine, which I find shapeless, dumpy and unflattering.

If I'm Hedi's only cheerleader and customer so be it

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01-10-2012
  195
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A few hits and quite a few misses - and please! Some editing in here! 66 looks is too many looks, in my opinion.

I liked the skinny pants and tight jackets: chic and cool. Also, some of the gowns (some, I said) were quite elegant and YSL-like.

But some of this collection was just... well, gauche - and I mean that word in all its negative connotations.

It's a work in progress, but I'll cut him some slack and see what comes next.

It definitely didn't feel like a spring collection.

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